3" ABS toilet drain can I re-glue.

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naimc

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Hello forum ! ( I am a DIY'er who with no real plumbing experience )
I started a bathroom reno 2 years after finding my plywood subfloor in basement washroom as rotted out, I demolished the entire washroom and let it sit for 2 years as I was not sure where the water was coming from.

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Last year I purchase a replacement toilet and after the fact realized the drain was to close to the wall 10" instead of the 12" for a standard toilette.

Today I broke the concert slab cut out the existing 90 degree and prepare a new one with female end so I could slide in my offset flange.

After taking measurement even with the offset I was under 12" So I dug the hole a bit bigger and used a 45 to extend the drain.

Now I cleaned up the 3" abs pipe that was under the slab as best I could, I used a heat gun to remove the previous joint and I lightly sanded and used a paint thinner to clean the joint.

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Now I notice the pipe is slightly oval, can I just glue it as I or should I break-up more concert and cut the 3" ABS pipe to avoid reusing the old joint area ? I don't want this to leak.
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Close-up of the joint I am about the re-glue and having second thoughts ? What would an experience plumber do here ?

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Thank you for your comments.
 

Jeff H Young

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I would chip it back more. I dont understand your comment rotted floor? did you have wood mixed with dirt below there befor or wood buried in concrete?
now I see a picture that the end looks pretty good maybe a slight deformation heavy on the glue give a twist hold it in place for a bit shoulds be fine. wouldnt hurt to test it befor covering
 

naimc

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I would chip it back more. I dont understand your comment rotted floor? did you have wood mixed with dirt below there befor or wood buried in concrete?
now I see a picture that the end looks pretty good maybe a slight deformation heavy on the glue give a twist hold it in place for a bit shoulds be fine. wouldnt hurt to test it befor covering
The 1st picture showed the original toiled emplacement and the rotted out floor which I removed.

My changle here is am redoing the entire washroom, doing the "rough-in" without knowing what will be final level of the floor.
Just prior to gluing I realized that connecting the 3" male flange directly at the end of the 90 degree elbow female was bring my flange under the the existing concrete slab. Not enough room from a sub floor so I glued another 45 with a 90 degree elbow that is male at its end this I can adjust my high with a 3" pipe or get a flange with a 3" female if my final level is low.

I put lots of glue on both pieces and to my surprise is just slide right in, while the dry fit was very hard. I held the parts in place for 30 seconds.

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Now how do I leak test the joint after its dries ?
 

GReynolds929

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You could have gotten a 10" rough toilet. Would've been better than a offset or 45° flange IMO. Since you've gone this far, what @Jeff H Young said is the way to do it.
 

Jeff H Young

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didnt notice the closet flange , and dont know where the closet is going to sit I think maybe he is turning the w/c 90 degrees because the water line is gone
 

naimc

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Did somebody install tile over plywood on a slab?
yeap, picture from last year when I did the demolition.

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Concrete slab was covered the tar paper, following by a random assortment of pieces of wood and bricks, to shim the top layer plywood, This was probably built doing the 1980 must have been a recession judging by the scap that was used to shim the floor.
 
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