Asmart82
New Member
If I have a 3-wire pump, where would I connect the wires for the outlet inside the pressure switch so that the outlet only has power when the pump is on or would I be better off wiring it to the control box?
Wiring an Electrical Outlet to Pump Pressure Switch
- Thread starter Asmart82
- Start date
DonL
Jack of all trades Master of one
120v or 240volt outlet.
It can be done but may not be safe, and may not meet code.
What is this Outlet going to be used for ?
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Asmart82
New Member
I believe it is 240v, not sure but I can check. The outlet is going to be for a Stenner Chlorine pump.
I had the pump hooked directly up to the pressure switch but I would prefer to have it hooked to an outlet and I prefer not to buy a flow switch.
Here is a diagram for what I am trying to do but I am not sure which wire is which in the diagram. http://www.cleanwaterstore.com/technical/water-treatment-guides/Chlorinators/Stenner_chlorinator_startup.pdf
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DonL
Jack of all trades Master of one
All of the needed info is in the PDF file.
It would connect to the same output / switched connections on the pressure switch as your Well Pump.
If you do not understand the info in your PDF file then you may want a professional to help you.
Be careful playing with electric.
Asmart82
New Member
I've got the outlet hooked up. The chemical pump works only when the well pump is on but the power alternates on and off randomly for the chemical pump. Any idea what might be causing this? When I hook the pump up to a normal outlet, it is always on as it should be.
DonL
Jack of all trades Master of one
If it is not wired to the proper voltage it may be tripping the pumps internal overload protector.
Asmart82
New Member
You were correct. It was a 120v pump on a 220v outlet. Bought a 220v motor and it fixed the problem. Thanks!
DonL
Jack of all trades Master of one
You could have made the 115 volt pump work. Just needed one wire to the pressure switch and the other to ground.
DonL
Jack of all trades Master of one
That is what I would have done. Or run a new wire with a neutral.
But to meet code it would have to be connected to a neutral, because it would be a current carrying conductor.
BobL43
DIY Senior Member
Don, NO, I don't think you would have connected that wire to ground. I don't know why you even joked about it.
Doesn't the neutral go to the ground bar? Or am I mistaken? 
BobL43
DIY Senior Member
Doesn't the neutral go to the ground bar? Or am I mistaken?
Yes, (at the service panel) and that's the ONLY place where they are in effect connected to each other.
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Thanks Bob!
DonL
Jack of all trades Master of one
I was not joking.
That is how my 120V heat tape gets power from my Well pump switch for the winter.
It may not meet code but it works for whatever I want to plug into the 120V outlet.
Code is for City Slicker folks. We just Git-R-Done on the City Slicker Farms in Texas.
BobL43
DIY Senior Member
Yes it will WORK. Keep the foil hat on, and you will be safe, I know because I wear one
OK, now I understand why the Midwest and wild Wild West have so many lightning storms. Lightning currents start from the ground up to the clouds that are stripped of their electrons and need to be replenished by the abundance of them spare ones in Texas just jumping around the place looking for a new home
And I just realized what makes those Texican/Mexican jumping beans jump too
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DonL
Jack of all trades Master of one
Doesn't the neutral go to the ground bar? Or am I mistaken?
That is true, but new NEC codes (BR549.1234.0987) don't allow a ground conductor to carry current in a Normally operating mode, It is for a fault and safety only.
The most important code is Morse Code.
BobL43
DIY Senior Member
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