Faucet sputtering after well pump replaced

[Chandra Combs]

I hope someone can offer some suggestions to fix this, as I'm about to lose my mind.

My well pump was replaced mid-April, and after about 10 days, water began sputtering from all faucets and toilet flushing caused a burst of air on refill, with subsequent LOUD knocking and jerking. Well company came back out and did some adjustments to the air intake that feeds my attached carbon/oxygen tank system to alleviate sulfur smell to my water. Like clockwork, all worked fine for a week, then the sputtering/knocking returned.

Second visit from the well company was to replace some pressure valve that, again, regulates the pressure going into that carbon filter. Worked for 10 days, then the sputtering/knocking has again returned.

I'm losing my mind over this. I paid a LOT of $$ for this new pump, and can't get reliable water from it for more than 10 days before this air pressure/sputtering problem returns. They seem to keep focusing on that carbon filter, but it has worked FLAWLESSLY for 15 years. Now, after I replace the well pump, it's suddenly sucking air into my plumbing? Sorry, I'm not buying it.

I'm an older woman with ZERO knowledge about wells, plumbing, etc. but my common sense tells me that this is all related SOMEHOW to the well pump replacement. I should also mention that the pressure tank was replaced about 3 years ago, and at every visit, they tell me the pressure in the tank is perfect; i.e., the pressure tank isn't the problem. BUT, my water is acting exactly like it did 3 years ago before I replaced that tank.

I'm having the company that installed the carbon filter (a well company) come out tomorrow because I'm tired of the pump company blaming that filter.

If you've read all of this mini-novel, I thank you! Please, I'm literally begging for any helpful suggestions you may have.

 

[Reach4]

My well pump was replaced mid-April, and after about 10 days, water began sputtering from all faucets and toilet flushing caused a burst of air on refill, with subsequent LOUD knocking and jerking. Well company came back out and did some adjustments to the air intake that feeds my attached carbon/oxygen tank system to alleviate sulfur smell to my water. Like clockwork, all worked fine for a week, then the sputtering/knocking returned.

They could add something to catch and release the air that escapes from your air+carbon system.

Where is your pump?

If not down the well, how many pipes go between the pump and the well?

 

[Sponsor]

 

[Chandra Combs]

They could add something to catch and release the air that escapes from your air+carbon system.

Where is your pump?

If not down the well, how many pipes go between the pump and the well?

The pump is submerged in the well. I guess what I'm not understanding is that I didn't have this issue until the pump was replaced. Could there be some kind of leak in the pump or hose going to it that is allowing the air in? That is the one thing they have never done on these service calls - pulled the pump back out. My train of thought is that the problem began with the well pump replacement, so the problem should be investigated from there. Or does that not make any sense? As I said, my knowledge of wells/plumbing is zero.

Thanks for your reply!

 

[Reach4]

If its your air injection backwashing tank, then the air should coincide with regeneration cycles.

The pump is submerged in the well. I guess what I'm not understanding is that I didn't have this issue until the pump was replaced. Could there be some kind of leak in the pump or hose going to it that is allowing the air in?

You could get air from a submersible pump if it sucks air. That would require the pump being higher than before, and/or the water level having dropped.

If your new pump let you start doing a lot more irrigation, for example, that could have dropped the water level.

If you have a check valve above ground, such as near the pressure tank, that could let a leak admit water. Otherwise, a leak will not admit water. You could show us a photo that includes the pipe from the well approaching the pressure tank and the input to the pressure tank. We can see if we can spot a check valve.

Did they change the pressure tank? Was your old one bigger?

 

[Chandra Combs]

If its your air injection backwashing tank, then the air should coincide with regeneration cycles.


You could get air from a submersible pump if it sucks air. That would require the pump being higher than before, and/or the water level having dropped.

If your new pump let you start doing a lot more irrigation, for example, that could have dropped the water level.

If you have a check valve above ground, such as near the pressure tank, that could let a leak admit water. Otherwise, a leak will not admit water. You could show us a photo that includes the pipe from the well approaching the pressure tank and the input to the pressure tank. We can see if we can spot a check valve.

Did they change the pressure tank? Was your old one bigger?

^^BOLD ABOVE^^ was exactly what I was thinking - the new pump wasn't put in as deep as the previous one.

I have done nothing different with regard to water usage. My well is very deep - something like 300 ft. No irrigation system, and we've had lots of rain, so no need to water nor any reason for the water level to have dropped.

The pressure tank was replaced with an identical model 3 years ago.

I've taken some pictures that I hope help. One is of the carbon/oxygen system; one of the pipe leading to the pressure tank; and the last is of the pressure valve they replaced the last time that obviously didn't fix my problem.

 

[Reach4]

^^BOLD ABOVE^^ was exactly what I was thinking - the new pump wasn't put in as deep as the previous one.

Sucking water level down to the pump would tend to happen when you use more water than usual... How much shallower did they mount the pump?

Pictures are not what I expected. Your system does not have a backwash for the filter. Maybe somebody will recognize stuff.I have hopes somebody is familiar with your system.

On the PVC by the pressure switch... that square cross section thing is something. I don't recognize it either. Is it a check valve? The ones I have seen are shaped differently, but no reason they could not be squarish. What is the protrusion on the side of that unit? Is it like the valve on a tire, with a cap on it?

https://terrylove.com/forums/index....system-after-air-injection-iron-filter.74384/ has discussions of a homemade assembly to collect and release air that goes too far.

 

[Chandra Combs]

Sucking water level down to the pump would tend to happen when you use more water than usual... How much shallower did they mount the pump?

Pictures are not what I expected. Your system does not have a backwash for the filter. Maybe somebody will recognize stuff.I have hopes somebody is familiar with your system.

On the PVC by the pressure switch... that square cross section thing is something. I don't recognize it either. Is it a check valve? The ones I have seen are shaped differently, but no reason they could not be squarish. What is the protrusion on the side of that unit? Is it like the valve on a tire, with a cap on it?

https://terrylove.com/forums/index....system-after-air-injection-iron-filter.74384/ has discussions of a homemade assembly to collect and release air that goes too far.

I don't *know* that they did put the new pump higher than the old one - just a guess on my part because of this air in pipes issue. When they replaced the pump, they measured the hose going down into the old pump and gave me a unit rated for that length. That surprised me, because they said the hose thing was 140', but then said that my well was something like 400' deep. Why would be pump be so much higher than the depth of the well?

The carbon/oxygen filter has 2 tanks. The taller one is the carbon; the shorter one is where the water goes through and gets zapped with oxygen. At least that's my recollection. They told me that when the sulfur smell returned, they would come back and empty the large tank and refill with carbon.

The square thing on the PVC pipe is the inlet for the air that supplies the oxygen into the carbon/oxygenation system. On the first call for spurting water, they adjusted that to reduce the amount of air going into the system. Again, that lasted 7 days before the spurting came back. <story of my life with this repair> If the "protrusion" you're referring to is on that square part, that's what they used to adjust the pressure/intake.

Nobody seems to be familiar with my carbon system. The guys that installed the new pump didn't recognize it either. Of course, they were probably in elementary school when I had it installed.

 

[Chandra Combs]

Also, thanks for that link. WAY above my head, but perhaps I can get one of these well guys to read it. The company coming tomorrow is the one that installed the carbon filter and the pressure tank. When my pump failed, I "thought" I was calling the same company (have always been top notch), but I must have gotten the wrong # on my google search and ended up with another company. It was a Sunday, and I (mistakenly) thought the different company was just doing emergency service calls for my former well company. I'm praying the top-notch guy can figure out what's wrong tomorrow, as I trust them completely. This new company - well, not so much after all of this nonsense.

 

[Reach4]

I don't *know* that they did put the new pump higher than the old one - just a guess on my part because of this air in pipes issue. When they replaced the pump, they measured the hose going down into the old pump and gave me a unit rated for that length. That surprised me, because they said the hose thing was 140', but then said that my well was something like 400' deep. Why would be pump be so much higher than the depth of the well?

If they thought the water level would never drop that far, they might put the pump at 140.

There are devices that can detect when the pump starts pumping air, and turn off the pump for a while to let the well recover.

There is more than one way for air to come in.

The square thing on the PVC pipe is the inlet for the air that supplies the oxygen into the carbon/oxygenation system. On the first call for spurting water, they adjusted that to reduce the amount of air going into the system. Again, that lasted 7 days before the spurting came back. <story of my life with this repair> If the "protrusion" you're referring to is on that square part, that's what they used to adjust the pressure/intake.

So that squarish gadget would be a micronizer -- bring air into the water in very small bubbles. Then the oxygen in the air would react with the H2S. With a micronizer, you need something to let the air back out of the water, and that is probably what is on top of the short tank.

 

[Chandra Combs]

If they thought the water level would never drop that far, they might put the pump at 140.

There are devices that can detect when the pump starts pumping air, and turn off the pump for a while to let the well recover.

There is more than one way for air to come in.


So that squarish gadget would be a micronizer -- bring air into the water in very small bubbles. Then the oxygen in the air would react with the H2S. With a micronizer, you need something to let the air back out of the water, and that is probably what is on top of the short tank.

Thanks so much for all of your replies! I'm betting you are right about the micronizer and the valve on top of the short tank. I don't know what any of these things are; just that they worked flawlessly until the new pump was installed. That is why this issue is driving me insane. I just don't believe that "suddenly", all of the air is getting into my lines because of that filter. Didn't happen for 15 years, and just *happened* to coincide with the replacement of my well pump. Nope - not buying it.

I hope the tried & true well guy can get to me tomorrow. I left a begging voicemail on Sunday, so hoping they can fit me in tomorrow. Thanks for all of your help, and at least I have some intelligent questions I can ask now.

 

[Chandra Combs]

If they thought the water level would never drop that far, they might put the pump at 140.

There are devices that can detect when the pump starts pumping air, and turn off the pump for a while to let the well recover.

There is more than one way for air to come in.


So that squarish gadget would be a micronizer -- bring air into the water in very small bubbles. Then the oxygen in the air would react with the H2S. With a micronizer, you need something to let the air back out of the water, and that is probably what is on top of the short tank.

OH! And one other thing...

The pump replacement is one of those "slow start" kinds that gradually comes to full pressure. Could THAT be contributing to this problem? The old one was not like that. It was VERY old - like 25+ years old.

 

[Reach4]

Thanks so much for all of your replies! I'm betting you are right about the micronizer and the valve on top of the short tank. I don't know what any of these things are; just that they worked flawlessly until the new pump was installed. That is why this issue is driving me insane. I just don't believe that "suddenly", all of the air is getting into my lines because of that filter. Didn't happen for 15 years, and just *happened* to coincide with the replacement of my well pump. Nope - not buying it.

Higher water flow can make the micronizer suck more air. So if the pump does a lot more GPM (gallons per minute), that could make a difference.

 

[Chandra Combs]

Higher water flow can make the micronizer suck more air. So if the pump does a lot more GPM (gallons per minute), that could make a difference.

Interesting! Thanks again for all of your help. Stay tuned...

 

[LLigetfa]

It could be pure coincidence that the problem started after the pump was replaced. It sounds like the device that is supposed to remove the air has failed.

The fact that each time they do work on the system, it lasts for about 10 days may be due to them purging out all of the air in the process and it takes 10 days for so much air to accumulate that it can move forward.

 

[Chandra Combs]

It could be pure coincidence that the problem started after the pump was replaced. It sounds like the device that is supposed to remove the air has failed.

The fact that each time they do work on the system, it lasts for about 10 days may be due to them purging out all of the air in the process and it takes 10 days for so much air to accumulate that it can move forward.

What do you mean by the "device that is supposed to remove the air"?

I do agree that it lasts 7-10 days because the air has been purged. But what is driving me crazy is HOW is air getting back into the lines when I never had this problem before the pump was replaced? As I said, this issue is driving me INSANE.

 

[LLigetfa]

The air is injected my the micronizer. It is that rectangular item with the hex cap on its side that Reach4 described the function of. In the center of the hex cap is a bypass valve that can be adjusted with a slotted screwdriver. The bypass valve regulates how much air the micronizer sucks in.

The solution is not to reduce the amount of air sucked in but rather to fix the item that is supposed to remove the air downstream. As Reach4 surmised, it is probably that item on the top of the tank.

You agreed with his prognosis so why the sudden reversal. I am simply supporting Reach4's prognosis.

BTW, micronizers and air removers are high maintenance items so I am surprised they worked for 15 years on neglect.

 

[Brian94]

Maybe you could try replacing the taco vent on top of your blue tank. Atleast that what it looks like

 

[Reach4]

http://apps.taco-hvac.com/uploads/FileLibrary/100-7.1.pdf

 

[Chandra Combs]

The air is injected my the micronizer. It is that rectangular item with the hex cap on its side that Reach4 described the function of. In the center of the hex cap is a bypass valve that can be adjusted with a slotted screwdriver. The bypass valve regulates how much air the micronizer sucks in.

The solution is not to reduce the amount of air sucked in but rather to fix the item that is supposed to remove the air downstream. As Reach4 surmised, it is probably that item on the top of the tank.

You agreed with his prognosis so why the sudden reversal. I am simply supporting Reach4's prognosis.

BTW, micronizers and air removers are high maintenance items so I am surprised they worked for 15 years on neglect.

I'm not reversing my position - just didn't understand what you were saying.

The valve you referred to on the shorter tank HAS been replaced. That was their second attempt to fix this problem. Yet, 10 days later, here comes the spurting and air. That's why this problem has been soooooo frustrating - every attempt to fix the problem has given the same result - spurting in 7-10 days.

 

[Chandra Combs]

Maybe you could try replacing the taco vent on top of your blue tank. Atleast that what it looks like
View attachment 63077

That was just replaced at their 2nd attempt to fix this problem. Worked for 10 days, and the spurting is back.