Well water occasional brown water. DIY analyzed taken for advice.

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wynn003

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Hi. We have had the occasional brown water for years. We've gotten a new soft water system (since old one was non-digital and didn't know what's going on). Well water test kit says we're ok. Lately, tested the brownish water with iron-out chemical (to see that it's not tannins) and it cleared it. Sometimes there's sulfur smell when it's brownish. I tried magnet on filters (100micron, 50micron and 5micron) and it doesn't seem to pickup any brown stuff.

Checked with a local well service company who has great reviews, to check well since it's at least 10 years no maintenance. They suggested to have water test done first. They also helped over the phone for free troubleshoot with electrical, which makes company seem trustworthy.

Can't find any decent water testing lab that's not also selling water treatment. Price ranges a lot and reviews from people ranges a lot. Township has no "official" testing center. Was going to do the shock treatment with bleach since it's hasn't been done in 10 years. Wanted to see if we should do that to see if it makes any difference.

Still very confused as to steps, so in the mean time, tried these:

When it was brownish, I eliminated the soft water system (since I read that maybe while it's regenerating, it doesn't have enough time to flush).
I used the Hach total iron test and it shows .6ppm, when water got "clear", it was 0 to less than .15ppm
I cycled through a few times with well tank to try to get new water. Sometimes water is brownish mostly not. Whether I let it settle for a few minutes before turning faucet on or not. I was trying to see what can rust out in the system. We have copper pipes and the WellxTrol is Wx203 and should be stainless or polyproprolene(?) so the route would be from well to tank to 15ft of pipes then faucet. What else is iron in the water system?

Then I decided to rule out the copper pipes and try to flush from tank faucet. At first, it was sometimes brownish sometimes not.
When it's not, it was 0 to less than .15ppm.
I then Let it drain as much as it can and 0 pressure (power off). Turn it on and it was more brownish. It even had visible iron rust particles (magnet test).
When it was brownish test showed 1ppm. Let it cycle a few times to get new water and tried draining tank a couple times. When it was more brownish, test shows .6ppm and have been more continuous more brown for a few cycles. I let it go through the filter system and it was less brownish.
I then removed from bypass and writing this now.

"Iron-out" test on brown, brownish waters clears the water, so def iron.

Obviously I would still need to water test, but what I was wanting to find out is if the well pump or casing is damaged, then regardless of the test, it still needs to be repaired right? If it passes, then at least it's out of the equation, and we can just go through water solution maybe manganese and iron filter. If that's the case, I should hold off on shocking until finally somebody can finally come out and check? I might have to go with 2nd choice if 1st choice still don't want to do maintenance on well.
 

wynn003

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Thanks. I saw that. Many complaints are about the UPS shipping fees not part of the pricing
 

wynn003

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Thanks
Sanitizing should help the smell thing. https://terrylove.com/forums/index....izing-extra-attention-to-4-inch-casing.65845/

You can layer in maybe one cup of Iron Out powder with each bag of salt to help deal with the iron. However the iron tests measures ferrous iron, and the iron that you see is ferric iron. A mechanical filter, maybe 5 micron, can filter out the iron that you can see.
Thanks. How about my other thoughts about checking the health of the casing etc? Seems logical?
I read about putting iron out in the brine tank. I was sort of afraid using water with iron out in it... and even for drinking (through a refrigerator carbon filter). But then that solution would get emptied out with the brine water at the next regeneration right? Then purged out of soft water tank when it's done? Luckily the brine tank looks clear (it had film growing stuff before we included a series of filters (100micron, 50 micron and 5 micron) before the soft water system. Just a pain to have to replace each month.
 

wynn003

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guy had me check pressure of well tank when empty. It was 43psi, let air out to 38psi. Had me check with food coloring to see if water is leaking on toilets. After everything, he then said that maybe we need to pull out the pump and check if there's holes/etc by the casing letting brownish water through. Did notice brownish water the morning of regeneration. So it seems I have a culprit... then the next day, brownish water again. Tried to let it run through direct from the well tank faucet, it was still brownish, so that still rules out the regen.
I think I'm still going to need an iron manganese sulfur air injected filter anyway. I'll probably order that.
 

Valveman

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A hole in the drop pipe will usually cause air to come out of the faucets. You can tell if there is a hole in the pipe by removing or gutting the check valve above ground. You don't need any other check valve than the one on the pump anyway. If the air pressure in the tank increases on its own, the diaphragm in the tank is bad.
 

wynn003

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A hole in the drop pipe will usually cause air to come out of the faucets. You can tell if there is a hole in the pipe by removing or gutting the check valve above ground. You don't need any other check valve than the one on the pump anyway. If the air pressure in the tank increases on its own, the diaphragm in the tank is bad.
I didn't check/see if there is a check valve above ground, only the one near/TO the pump This is why I was confused when guy said that if it's caused by faulty pressure switch, that it might be swirling/agitating the water from the well - to me it would mean it would "backwash" a bit to the well... oh wait, I think I figure out what you mean. If there is a hole in the pipe from check valve to well, it would cause the water already in the pipe to come back down, possibly agitating the water inside the well.
But then you said that any hole in the pipe would cause air to get pumped to the pipe then to the tank then to the soft water then to the faucets, which I don't, so hole is not likely a cause then?

Guy has said all along that if pump is working, that's pretty much to it. How much typically to come and check the pump (pulling it out and do a vacuum/seal test or something like that? After that, since pump has been out, it also need to have a chlorine shock right?

Looks like I need to check PH of water before soft water filter to see if iron/manganese filter would be effective.

As far as checking the pump, is it really a turn off power, remove the cap, disconnect power cables and pull the hose/tube out until I see the pump? I've hesitated to do this myself...
 

Reach4

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What do you know about the well? Diameter, depth, how far down is the pump is set?

I would presume that you have a steel or PVC casing that extends above the yard around 12 inches. I presume that you have a pitless adapter.
 

wynn003

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What do you know about the well? Diameter, depth, how far down is the pump is set?

I would presume that you have a steel or PVC casing that extends above the yard around 12 inches. I presume that you have a pitless adapter.
Since we got the house, it had a clear plastic (think zip lock type) cover that has a brick on it. 3 years ago, I wised up and put a 6" well cap. It's about 8" above. House was built 1993, not sure of well age.
After all the rain we had, water is "clear" from faucet and from tank o_O
 
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wynn003

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For those that are still wondering, I haven't done anything but the sump pump that I replaced a few weeks ago had been running. Haven't seen the brownish water for at least a couple of weeks, through rain and regeneration. Still a mystery. I'm ready to get an air injected H2S, Fe and Mn filter...
 
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