Well pump cut-out press question

[dshuster]

Hi everyone just joined up since this forum seems to come up in every well related search I perform and it always has great information.
I have a Grundfos 10SQ10-290 that was installed on 4/1/2024. The system includes a 40/60 pressure switch and an Amtrol WX205 pressure tank. I am experiencing an issue and hope someone can help explain how this works.

The cut-in pressure is set to 40 psi; I hear a click when the pump turns on. However, the cut-out pressure seems to be set at 44 psi because I hear a click there as well, but the pressure continues to rise to 60 psi on the gauge. When I try to set the cut-out pressure to 60 psi, the gauge eventually reads around 80 psi.

I tested my pressure tank after draining all the water and it is set at 38 psi which is correct for this configuration.

Any thoughts on why there’s a delay in the pressure increase after the cut-out pressure is reached?

Thanks
-Dimitry

 

[Valveman]

Sometimes the pipe nipple to the pressure switch gets clogged and the switch has a delayed reaction compared to the gauge. The SQ pump also has a 5 second soft start. So, when you hear the click to turn on at 40, it should be 5 seconds before the water starts flowing and pressure increasing.

 

[Sponsor]

 

[dshuster]

Thanks for replying so quickly.

Two weeks ago, I replaced the pressure switch and pipe nipple. I also checked the pressure in the Amtrol WX205 and found it was at 12 psi. I increased it to 38 psi, but my wife noticed that the shower would intermittently reduce to a trickle and then return to normal.

Yesterday, I drained the Amtrol WX205 again, checked the pressure, and found it was still at 38 psi. I’m glad to see I don’t need to replace the tank!

This morning, my wife mentioned that the shower ran fine without going down to a trickle as it did before.

Here are my questions:

1. Thanks for explaining the 5-second soft start. If, for some reason, I increased the tank pressure to more than 38 psi and set the pressure switch cut-in to around 38 or 37 psi (close but not exact), could that cause the shower to trickle? I’m thinking that maybe when I checked it yesterday, I might have adjusted it slightly, and that resolved the issue. Any thoughts?
2. I’m still puzzled about why I need to set the cut-out pressure to 44 psi for the pressure gauge to reach 60 psi as the upper limit. This part still confuses me!

Thanks
-Dimitry

 

[Valveman]

Yeah I'm confused as well. If the pressure switch shuts the pump off at 44 PSI, it should never go any higher.

Too much air in the tank will cause a trickle for 5 seconds as the pump gets up to speed.

 

[dshuster]

I have noticed a drop in water pressure after being in the shower for a while, which I don’t recall happening before I replaced the pressure switch.

I have a few questions:

1)Should I consider increasing the pressure range from 40/60 to something like 43/63 for the drop in water pressure?
2)Do you think the pump might have a "soft end" that causes it to keep running for an additional 5-10 seconds, gradually slowing down as it stops?
3)Should I be concerned about this?

Thanks
-Dimitry

 

[Valveman]

Pumps just stop when the pressure switch opens, they do not soft stop. Maybe a bad tank? Start with, what is the pressure when the shower has been on for a while? Look at the gauge.

 

[Reach4]

The cut-in pressure is set to 40 psi; I hear a click when the pump turns on. However, the cut-out pressure seems to be set at 44 psi because I hear a click there as well, but the pressure continues to rise to 60 psi on the gauge. When I try to set the cut-out pressure to 60 psi, the gauge eventually reads around 80 psi.

Did you fiddle with the nut on the smaller spring of the pressure switch? Typically that nut should be turned almost to where the small spring is not compressed. If you adjusted that nut, you might give that some more turns CCW to where it is not compressing the spring at all. Normally you only change the nut on the big spring, which should change the cut-in and cut out both.

What pressure switch did you get?

Consider monitoring the voltage between (typically) terminals 1 and 4 on the pressure switch to see when power is being sent to the pump.

 

[dshuster]

My pressure switch is wired so that terminals 2 and 3 show 240V when the pump turns on. It shows 240V at around 40 psi, then drops to 0V at about 44 psi, but the pressure gauge continues to climb very slowly. This makes me think that either the pressure gauge needs replacement or the new pressure switch might have become clogged.

I suspect a clog because, after replacing the switch, I noticed debris coming out of the outside spigot when I turned it on.

The replacement switch I used was a Dumptrol Telemecanique 40/60 pressure switch.

I’m not sure what else could be causing this since the pressure tank is set to 38 psi and is holding steady.

I have a few questions:

1. Could it be an issue with the check valve?
2. Do you recommend putting a pre-filter before the pressure switch to prevent clogging?
3. I’m particularly concerned because the pump warranty ends in April 2025, and if there’s a problem with the pump, I want to address it while it’s still under warranty.

Thanks for all your help!

Thanks
-Dimitry

 

[Reach4]

I presume the pressure switch does not have a lever. I am only wondering about the extra click you are hearing.

1. Check valve? An above ground check valve is normally not recommended. How about posting a photo that includes that check valve, the pressure switch, presure gauge, and the input to the pressure tank

2. No. If such a filter clogs, you will burn up the pump.

 

[dshuster]

Attached are some photos of the pressure switch and connections. Please let me know if you need to see anything else.

I was watching the pressure gauge while someone was taking a shower and noticed the following: the pressure gauge would drop to 42-43 psi, and then the pump would turn on. After the pump turned on, the pressure would reach 45-46 psi, and the pump would turn off. However, the pressure gauge would then slowly continue to rise to around 49-50 psi. Finally, after the shower was turned off, the gauge would gradually climb to 58-59 psi.

At this point, I think I’ll start by replacing the pressure gauge (it’s only a $15 item), as I’m completely stumped by what’s happening.

Thanks
-Dimitry

 

[Valveman]

Yeah, sounds like the pressure switch is doing as it should and the gauge is just slow catching up. The pressure snubber hole in the bottom of the gauge is probably partially clogged.

 

[Reach4]

Did you fiddle with the nut on the smaller spring of the pressure switch? Typically that nut should be turned almost to where the small spring is not compressed.

Dimitry, did you?

 

[dshuster]

Today, I had some time to replace the water pressure gauge, and it turned out to be the culprit. Now, it’s much easier to adjust the PSI and see the changes immediately on the new gauge.

The moral of the story: if you replace the pressure switch, also replace the pressure gauge. Otherwise, you might waste time trying to diagnose unnecessary issues.

Thanks, everyone, for your help!

-Dimitry

 

[Valveman]

Today, I had some time to replace the water pressure gauge, and it turned out to be the culprit. Now, it’s much easier to adjust the PSI and see the changes immediately on the new gauge.

The moral of the story: if you replace the pressure switch, also replace the pressure gauge. Otherwise, you might waste time trying to diagnose unnecessary issues.

Thanks, everyone, for your help!

-Dimitry

Also, cheap pressure gauges do not have the pressure snubber hole in the inlet and don't clog as easily as the expensive oil filled gauges with the tiny hole for a snubber in the inlet.

 

[Reach4]

Also, cheap pressure gauges do not have the pressure snubber hole in the inlet and don't clog as easily as the expensive oil filled gauges with the tiny hole for a snubber in the inlet.

Never had heard that.

 

[Fitter30]

What is that devise hanging from the switch with the two wires? Looks like power and pump left side of switch. What is the right side wire?

 

[Valveman]

Never had heard that.

Yeah, just look in the inlet. The ones with the tiny hole for a snubber clog easily. You can use an ice pick and either remove the snubber or enlarge the hole.

 

[dshuster]

What is that devise hanging from the switch with the two wires? Looks like power and pump left side of switch. What is the right side wire?

Sorry for the late reply. I added two things to the switch. One was something called Merrill (LAT500HV) used for high voltage lightning arrestor and the other cable which you do not see was Waterproof well stop to turn off the well if there is a leak near the well. Do not want to show up one day with 2 ft of water in my basement.. I know it does not prevent all leaks throughout the house but something is better than nothing.

Let me know if you have any other questions.

Thanks
-Dimitry

 

[Fitter30]

Sorry for the late reply. I added two things to the switch. One was something called Merrill (LAT500HV) used for high voltage lightning arrestor and the other cable which you do not see was Waterproof well stop to turn off the well if there is a leak near the well. Do not want to show up one day with 2 ft of water in my basement.. I know it does not prevent all leaks throughout the house but something is better than nothing.

Let me know if you have any other questions.

Thanks
-Dimitry.

Typical lightning flash is about 300 million Volts and about 30,000 Amps. There is no protection for a direct hit. Have had l within 1/4 mile and lucky that it just burned up a starter box.

 

[Valveman]

I agree. If lightning wants to get you there is no stopping it. But surge arrestors won't hurt.