Water Well Pump Not Working

[Ken_Thomas]

We need a Christmas miracle. I could really use some recommendations on troubleshooting my well pump in the Texas Hill Country (Boerne, TX). Tomorrow is Christmas, and our water cistern is almost out of water.

Here is an overview of my setup:
- Approx. 1100 foot water well (I live on a hill which is one reason for the large depth)
- Submersible pump (not sure specs or age on it because it was in place when I bought the home 6 years ago)
- Submersible well pump has LittleFuse Pump Saver 233P installed
- Concrete storage cistern (a few thousand gallons)
- Float switch in cistern to trigger well pump to come on
- Booster pump with pressure bladder/tank

Overview of issue:
- A couple of days ago, I noticed the level indicator (weight with jug inside) for my cistern was showing lower than normal. I thought it was just because we were using a lot of water in the days leading up to Christmas.
- Yesterday, I noticed I only had about 1/3rd cistern/tank left and the water was not replenishing.
- My pump saver light showed as green (meaning it was on), but no red lights or any indication that it was shut off from sucking air, etc.
- I checked the float switch in the cistern and when it was in the off position, the pump saver light switched off. When I dropped the float switch back in the cistern, the pump saver showed green like it is running again.
- I have cycled the breaker a couple of times too and also tried resetting the pump saver in case that was an issue. That didn't help.
- My booster pump and water pressure are all good, but I am soon to run out of water in the cistern.
- None of this has to do with the recent freeze because I noticed this issue before the recent freeze and today was above freezing (plus all exposed piping is double wrapped).

Does anyone have a recommendation on other items to troubleshoot? Is it possible that the submersible well pump is just "dead", lost prime, possibly clogged, etc.? I don't think my well is out of water because my pump saver showed no signs of an issue. Also, not that this is a full proof method, but other folks in my neighborhood with similar water well setups are not having water source issues even though we have been in a drought here so I think we still have an adequate water supply.

Any recommendations or suggestions would be greatly appreciated! I need a Christmas miracle!

 

[Reach4]

Submersible pumps don't need priming.

What voltage is between terminals 2 and 3 of the pressure switch?

 

[Sponsor]

 

[Ken_Thomas]

Submersible pumps don't need priming.

What voltage is between terminals 2 and 3 of the pressure switch?

Unfortunately, I don't have a voltmeter/multimeter, but I do have a volt sensor. When testing some of the lines for power, I noticed two capacitors in the back right of the panel. They were mounted side by side and I didn't have a chance to trace the lines to see what they were wired into. I held my volt sensor to the bottom of one capacitor and it lit up and beeped without even fully touching the bottom. On the other capacitor, the sensor did not detect voltage when touching it to the bottom.

I am ignorant to the wiring/electrical setup of the well pump. Are the capacitors used to start the pump? Could I have a bad capacitor which is causing the pump not to start up?

 

[Reach4]

Yes. The big one is called a start capacitor. If that is failing, the pump might intermittently start. If the pump fails to start due to a start capacitor, the breaker should trip.

So I would take steps for getting a clamp multimeter with test leads for taking voltage readings and resistance readings. The clamp is for measuring AC amps. Or odds are one of your friends has a multimeter. But even if you can borrow that, after taking one reading, you would need to take more readings, and to know which you need, you would need to know the results of the first reading.

Is the LittleFuse Pump Saver 233P wired in line before or after the pressure switch?

For now, can you arrange for a water truck to fill the cistern, and schedule a well service person?

 

[Ken_Thomas]

Yes. The big one is called a start capacitor. If that is failing, the pump might intermittently start. If the pump fails to start due to a start capacitor, the breaker should trip.

So I would take steps for getting a clamp multimeter with test leads for taking voltage readings and resistance readings. The clamp is for measuring AC amps. Or odds are one of your friends has a multimeter. But even if you can borrow that, after taking one reading, you would need to take more readings, and to know which you need, you would need to know the results of the first reading.

Is the LittleFuse Pump Saver 233P wired in line before or after the pressure switch?

For now, can you arrange for a water truck to fill the cistern, and schedule a well service person?

Thanks. The smaller capacitor is the one not giving any voltage reading so I am guessing that is the run capacitor. Could a bad run capacitor keep the pump from working?

I'm not sure if the LittleFuse Pump Saver is wired in before or after the pressure switch. I'll try trouble shooting the capacitors first and post wiring pics, if needed.

I have just enough water to hopefully get me another day or two so I am going to try and get a well service person out tomorrow and possibly a truck of water depending on the diagnosis. I am hoping it is just a bad capacitor that I can change out or my well guy can change out so I can avoid the water truck. I may post back with some pics of my wiring setup and more info if I find myself stuck. I appreciate the help!

 

[Valveman]

I am thinking you have a pump larger than 1.5HP and the overloads maybe tripped. Look under the box with the capacitors and see if there is a red button or two that you can push to reset.

 

[Ken_Thomas]

Quick update ... well service guys were able to come out today with a small pulling unit on their truck. They initially thought it was a dead pump. They started pulling the drop pipe out and toward the very top there was a break/hole in the pipes at one of the threaded connections. They changed out both pipes, dropped everything back down, turned the breaker back on and it started pumping water! They think the pump could have been trying to pull up the water but it was hitting the hole and going back down the casing.

The well guys said all electrical components looked good, but I still don't trust that my run capacitor is good. I am going to treat myself to a belated Christmas gift and get a good multimeter so I can at least check voltages in the future and do a spot check of my capacitors, etc. I will probably buy a new run capacitor as backup or change it for good measure. Thanks again for everyone's help!

 

[Reach4]

It's great they could come out in a timely manner.

If you learn things like what pump you have, how far down it is, etc, it is good to put that on paper taped to the wall near the pressure tank.

You could disconnect the run capacitor, and the pump will run fine... it will just take a tad more electricity.

But a multimeter is good to have, and may even benefit your friends upon occasion.