I'm having trouble with my sump pump, From January to February I replaced my sump pump 4 times. My house is 3 years old. The pump runs about every 45 to 55 seconds. On all 4 pumps (RIGID the first 3, Zoeller the one I've got now) they either don't turn on or they won't turn off, sometimes it's one sometimes its the other. This has happened on all of them. I put the zoeller in February 10th, it has worked great until Saturday July 29th. I believe the connections have fused, because when I hit the top with a hammer (lightly) it turns it on or off! Like I said this has happened on all 4 now. Any clues? Is there a different pump that I can use that doesn't require electricity? Thank Justin
Sump pump
- Thread starter jcress
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That is about 500,000 switch movements 1 on 1 off = 2. You have a definate problem if it is going on and off that often. If your basement is finished you need a backup sump.
1 thing you can do is get a few switches and replace them every so many months B4 it stops working.
You could also install another sump pit and punp to take over when the first one fails. Does the the pump run faster when it rains?
You may be on a spring or underground stream.
1 thing you can do is get a few switches and replace them every so many months B4 it stops working.
You could also install another sump pit and punp to take over when the first one fails. Does the the pump run faster when it rains?
You may be on a spring or underground stream.
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Jadnashua
Retired Defense Industry Engineer xxx
How deep is your sump? Do you have a check valve so most of the water you pump out doesn't come back in once the pump turns off?
It would be good to have the pump near the bottom of the sump so it can empty most of it at once. Can you post a picture of how you have it installed?
It would be good to have the pump near the bottom of the sump so it can empty most of it at once. Can you post a picture of how you have it installed?
SumppumpPimp
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It truly sounds like an application problem, not a pump problem. You have had four different pumps and all of them have failed,
hmmmm..... I would have to recommend you to contact a licensed plumber to come out and take a look at the application.
hmmmm..... I would have to recommend you to contact a licensed plumber to come out and take a look at the application.
SumppumpPimp
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If your pump comes on that often that is about 224,000 start times during the time you have had the Zoeller pump, the switches are rated for 200,000 start times. I am very curious as to what model pump you have, and what size is the pit that the pump is in? DIA. X DEPTH.
It sounds like you are going to need a "piggy back" switch to operate the pump if you have enough room in the basin. Please provide me with the information I am requiring about and I will be able to help you out on this one.
It sounds like you are going to need a "piggy back" switch to operate the pump if you have enough room in the basin. Please provide me with the information I am requiring about and I will be able to help you out on this one.
Mikey
Aspiring Old Fart, EE, computer & networking geek
It's not a pump problem, it's a water problem...
You're pumping a hell of a lot of water -- where is it coming from? What's the topography there? What's the water table depth? If you unplug the pump, how high/how fast does the water rise? Can you adjust the start/stop depth settings to have the pump run less often for longer times?
If all else fails, I'd get myself a heavy-duty contactor rated for a few million starts, and use the sump pump's switch to activate the contactor. I'm sure somebody with a Grainger catalog could suggest an appropriate device.
You're pumping a hell of a lot of water -- where is it coming from? What's the topography there? What's the water table depth? If you unplug the pump, how high/how fast does the water rise? Can you adjust the start/stop depth settings to have the pump run less often for longer times?
If all else fails, I'd get myself a heavy-duty contactor rated for a few million starts, and use the sump pump's switch to activate the contactor. I'm sure somebody with a Grainger catalog could suggest an appropriate device.
Bob NH
In the Trades
You probably need a bigger sump.
You don't want a pump that doesn't use electricity. Electric (off the grid) is the most efficient.
You need to apply some engineering.
There is nothing that is described below that you can't do for yourself. Your plumber should have been able to solve this problem for you. He has not served you well. He is apparently selling pumps.
Find the outlet and measure how much water you are pumping out in ten minutes. Bucket and watch with second hand (they still make them). How many gallons per cycle? How many cycles per hour. Make sure the water is getting out where it will not drain back. Measure at least 5 pumping cycles.
Then measure what is the difference in water level in the sump between when the pump comes on and shuts off. Some pumps have very low range switches and you probably need a separate switch. I would have two switches, an alarm, and operate the pump (or pumps) through electrical contactors.
Given what you say about your demand, I would have two pumps operating with grid power, with an alternating duplex controller (I build my own controllers with a commercial alternating relay) and alarm system, and a generator to supply power if the grid is out.
If you want a battery backup to operate while you get the generator started, that's fine, but I would not rely on it for extended outages.
Find the model and rating of your Zoeller pump. Compare its GPM at 15 ft of head with the GPM that you are pumping out.
Now, you want to put in a sump that is big enough and deep enough to give you at least a 10 minute cycle.
You want a pump that will pump out the water you get in flood times. If your flood time incoming is 20 gallons per minute, then you should have at least a 40 GPM pump, or two pumps that total 50 GPM.
Your pump capacity should be at least 10 times your baseline (dry season) flow rate.
With serious flow problems at flood time, I would want two pumps that run off the grid. Battery powered pumps will not do the job for long periods. Compare a possible battery system with your flood season demand. Will it keep you dry while you get a generator running? If not, it is no good.
Don't count on buying that generator after the power has been out for 6 hours and your batteries are dying. Lots of other people got to HD ahead of you.
Now all of this may be overkill. If your problem is no check valve, or a poorly set switch, or too small a sump, then you may be able to get by with your one pump.
If the problem is that you really have a lot of water to pump, then you need a robust system that will let you sleep at night, or take a vacation during the rainy season, without worrying about whether your basement is going to remain dry.
You don't want a pump that doesn't use electricity. Electric (off the grid) is the most efficient.
You need to apply some engineering.
There is nothing that is described below that you can't do for yourself. Your plumber should have been able to solve this problem for you. He has not served you well. He is apparently selling pumps.
Find the outlet and measure how much water you are pumping out in ten minutes. Bucket and watch with second hand (they still make them). How many gallons per cycle? How many cycles per hour. Make sure the water is getting out where it will not drain back. Measure at least 5 pumping cycles.
Then measure what is the difference in water level in the sump between when the pump comes on and shuts off. Some pumps have very low range switches and you probably need a separate switch. I would have two switches, an alarm, and operate the pump (or pumps) through electrical contactors.
Given what you say about your demand, I would have two pumps operating with grid power, with an alternating duplex controller (I build my own controllers with a commercial alternating relay) and alarm system, and a generator to supply power if the grid is out.
If you want a battery backup to operate while you get the generator started, that's fine, but I would not rely on it for extended outages.
Find the model and rating of your Zoeller pump. Compare its GPM at 15 ft of head with the GPM that you are pumping out.
Now, you want to put in a sump that is big enough and deep enough to give you at least a 10 minute cycle.
You want a pump that will pump out the water you get in flood times. If your flood time incoming is 20 gallons per minute, then you should have at least a 40 GPM pump, or two pumps that total 50 GPM.
Your pump capacity should be at least 10 times your baseline (dry season) flow rate.
With serious flow problems at flood time, I would want two pumps that run off the grid. Battery powered pumps will not do the job for long periods. Compare a possible battery system with your flood season demand. Will it keep you dry while you get a generator running? If not, it is no good.
Don't count on buying that generator after the power has been out for 6 hours and your batteries are dying. Lots of other people got to HD ahead of you.
Now all of this may be overkill. If your problem is no check valve, or a poorly set switch, or too small a sump, then you may be able to get by with your one pump.
If the problem is that you really have a lot of water to pump, then you need a robust system that will let you sleep at night, or take a vacation during the rainy season, without worrying about whether your basement is going to remain dry.
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