Simple In/Out valves with 1"+ NPT connections (for 2.5" tank opening, 1.05" distributor)

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Hatsuwr

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I see the Clack C1190 and Fleck 125, but I believe both of them have more proprietary connections. Can't find much info of that though, so please correct me if I'm wrong. I found these two that should work:

Really not much info available about these different options, so I was wondering if anyone had recommendations here.
 

Reach4

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Which part bothers you-- 1.050 distributor opening? The distributor tube is the tube that goes from the top to the bottom thru the middle of the media. That 1.050 inch is OD, and is the size of nominal 3/4 inch PVC. So typically you glue a bottom basket onto the PVC, and cut the PVC flush with the top of the tank, with the basket on the bottom. The top is not glued, but rather there is an o-ring, which I expect would be provided with that top piece.

The 2. 5 inch thread screws into the top of a common tank.
 

Hatsuwr

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Which part bothers you-- 1.050 distributor opening? The distributor tube is the tube that goes from the top to the bottom thru the middle of the media. That 1.050 inch is OD, and is the size of nominal 3/4 inch PVC. So typically you glue a bottom basket onto the PVC, and cut the PVC flush with the top of the tank, with the basket on the bottom. The top is not glued, but rather there is an o-ring, which I expect would be provided with that top piece.

The 2. 5 inch thread screws into the top of a common tank.
Oh no, I know I need a 2.5" connection for my tank and 1.05" for my distributor tube. I'm looking for something with NPT inlets and outlets. I'll plumb in my own bypass as needed.
 

Reach4

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FIP and FIPT are both female NPT.
Is that you wanted to know? If that is not it, please clarify what it is .
 

Hatsuwr

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FIP and FIPT are both female NPT.
Is that you wanted to know? If that is not it, please clarify what it is .
No, I am looking for a valve that has 1"+ NPT connections integral with the valve - that don't need a dedicated connector/bypass to adapt it to NPT. Here are the non-controlled valves I've found:

Clack C1190/D1400 - Has 1/4" ports. Inlet/outlet seem to require a fitting with an o-ring, like this. Looks to be made of Noryl.

Clack 990S/D1226 - 1" FNPT inlet/outlet. Also appears to be Noryl.

Fleck 125 - Has two 1/4" NPT ports. Unsure about material, and thread type isn't specified, but from the length I assume it requires an o-ring sealing adapter like the Clack C1190.

Nelson HEAD-APW439-2.5-10-UF - Noryl construction, 1" FNPT inlet/outlet.

Aquatrol AQT-TH1-25 - Very similar to the Nelson, possibly identical.

So it seems like the Clack 990S and the Nelson both fit what I am looking for. The Clack seems to be available much cheaper, so unless there's reason to choose a different one, I'll probably go with that.
 

Bannerman

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The two In/Out head examples linked in post #1, both utilize standard 1" female National Pipe Thread (NPT) connections. There is nothing proprietary there.

You didn't state which media you are planning to place within the tank to be equipped with the In/Out head.

Virtually all media will benefit and perform best when backwashed on a regular basis. Backwashing will eliminate sediment and debris that enters into the media from the water, and will also eliminate worn and broken media particles which accumulate over time and will reduce the flow rate through the media. Since water always follows the path of least resistance, backwashing will also eliminate channelling through the media bed. Due to these reasons, it is probably advisable to consider utilizing a backwashing control valve, even if an inexpensive manually controlled (non-electric) valve is chosen.

Manual Backwash Valve example
 
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Hatsuwr

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The two In/Out head examples linked in post #1, both utilize standard 1" female National Pipe Thread (NPT) connections. There is nothing proprietary there.

You didn't state which media you are planning to place within the tank to be equipped with the In/Out head.

Virtually all media will benefit and perform best when backwashed on a regular basis. Backwashing will eliminate sediment and debris that enters into the media from the water, and will also eliminate worn and broken media particles which accumulate over time and will reduce the flow rate through the media. Since water always follows the path of least resistance, backwashing will also eliminate channelling through the media bed. Due to these reasons, it is probably advisable to consider utilizing a backwashing control valve, even if an inexpensive manually controlled (non-electric) valve is chosen.

Manual Backwash Valve example
Yea, it's Clack 1190 and Fleck 125 in that list that have the non-NPT connections.

It's for a calcite neutralizer. I recognize that backwashing will probably be necessary - especially with some iron in the system - but I wanted to test this out anyway. I'll be using a Vortech tank with should alleviate some of the channeling issues, and have a twin tank iron treatment system that will follow the neutralizer. The daily backwashing from that (each tank every other day) should result in ~15% bed expansion for the calcite.
 

ditttohead

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I would highly recommend the 1190F, you can refill the calcite through the top and it has an available bypass. it also has many connectors available to match your existing plumbing.
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