Residential main water valve replacement

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Victor S

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Rockville, MD
The water supply in our house (built in 1962) comes up through the concrete basement floor as a 3/4" copper pipe that appears to still be in good condition. It has a gate valve that takes several turns to close, and never completely stops the flow. I would like to replace it with a manual ball valve, plus a second electrically operated valve that can be controlled by a leak detection system.

What makes this a little more complicated is that I finished the basement and the valve is now in the wall behind an access panel. I expect I will have to cut out the foam insulation and use a larger access panel for this to work, and I can't solder inside the wall.

Here is what I have in mind. Assemble these parts on my bench:
[3/4 compression to 3/4 NPT] [electric valve] [brass pipe nipple] [manual ball valve] [3/4 NPT to 3/4 compression]
That way I can line them all up and tighten them into a single assembly. That will leave me with a compression fitting on each end - I will just need to cut the copper pipe above and below the old valve, leaving a gap large enough to take the assembly and mate with the compression fittings on each end.

The copper pipe will only be in contact with brass compression fittings, and everything in between is either brass or 301 stainless steel, so no dielectric fittings should be required, right? And if I carefully clean the cut ends of the copper pipe, I should have no problem getting the compression fittings to work, right?

Any questions, suggestions, observations, or feedback will be welcome.

Parts:
Compression to NPT https://www.amazon.com/Generic-Brass-Compression-Connector-Fitting/dp/B00CHHYYL0
Ball Valve https://www.amazon.com/VALFLUIDS-Forged-Female-Thread-Connector,150/dp/B0923Q42R5
Brass nipple https://www.amazon.com/Metal-Magery-Nipple-Length-Fitting/dp/B0D2JHKWV9
Electric valve https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06Y11B8VN
 

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