Replacing tub and brass drain

[Terry]

Breaking out the concrete should give you the room then.
We're glad to help.

 

[Bschooly]

Ok here is a picture of where the trap will have to go as I need it push further in to allow for vent T. I placed the T from the tub on the concrete. Note the offset. Can I angle the down line or is that not permitted?

Also is 1 1/2 ok for the vent or should I stick with 2 inch?

Also the rubber grommet fit easily w/o PVC inserted. Will it tighten? Do I need some sort of silicon caulk?

 

[Sponsor]

 

[Bschooly]

I think a direct drain setup will work. Can't find one online. The watco site is a mess. Ideas on where I can find a direct drain kit with a quality overflow finish?

 

[Bschooly]

See image, the T to the left will (I haven't yet actually glued anything) come off line at 45 degree angle. The p trap will attach directly to tub drain. The overflow will T off it. Before I finalize this, is this all good?

Confused about the T. Is a san tee ok for this? I hope orientation doesn't matter as I'll need to chip away more concrete if I switch it around.

One last question. Where should I stop and leave exposed for the plumbing inspection?

 

[Terry]

The drain kits use a santee.

They come with the overflow and the shoe parts, you supply the santee.

 

[Bschooly]

Sorry maybe I wasn't not clear. I'm planning on a direct drain arrangement. I won't be using the traditional arrangement. The san tee that I was talking about is the one I'm inserting in the line after the trap for the venting.

Is this OK?

 

[Terry]

Sorry maybe I wasn't not clear. I'm planning on a direct drain arrangement. I won't be using the traditional arrangement. The san tee that I was talking about is the one I'm inserting in the line after the trap for the venting.

Is this OK?

We are using combos for venting on the horizontal like that.
If that doesn't fit though, then do what you can. I installed plenty of santees like that until the code changed.

 

[Bschooly]

Combos? Sorry to be a pain. Not following you.

To summarize my situation.

1. Best I can tell the tub is borderline, maybe worse, re it's venting. It drained ok before but while I have things torn up I thought I'd remove any doubt. Then of course there's the issue of inspection.
2. To vent it, means I have to insert a T (for the v pipe) and that pushes the trap further under the tub.
3. I have just enough lateral space to do a direct drain setup.
4. I looked at the direct kit that watco has but the overflow cover is plastic. a non starter for me.
5. I've decided to buy a half kit (with decent trim), throw away the elbow and use a straight fitting instead. Then add a T beneath it for the overflow.

All of this goes away if the vent is not necessary,

Thanks for your patience with me.

Bill

 

[Reach4]

How about a line drawing or diagram of what you propose, unless you think people are following you sufficiently.

 

[Terry]

The vent needs to be behind the p-trap, not part of it.

 

[Reach4]

The vent needs to be behind the p-trap, not part of it.

I just grabbed that as an example of a sketch that describes a situation, and not a solution. Here is another example of the caliber of sketch that could communicate better than words.

 

[Bschooly]

Here is what I'm trying to do. Not to scale distorted, but you get the idea.

 

[Reach4]

Clearly Terry followed your words better than I did.
So yes, that trap arm would use a combo, or a (wye, with a 45 or 30 or whatever it takes) to go up at the angle you want.

 

[Bschooly]

What is the current thinking on capping the hole underneath the tub? I have filled with sand with about 2" left. Should I use concrete to finish. 2" should be easy to break. Termites are a big problem here.

 

[Bschooly]

BTW this is how my new venting turned out...