Replace washer valve?

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Hi I went to turn off water supply to repair my washing machine and both valves were frozen in place- it’s strange because I am almost positive my plumber shut them off to disconnect the machine to get it out of the way of a recent plumbing repair which means they have been opened and closed within the last month- anyway I was able to loosen them with WD 40- heat from a hairdryer, tapping with a wrench, and slow steady pressure. The hot one is fine, the cold one was squeaky when I was turning it back and forth to slowly loosen, then it started dripping from the handle. I’ve gotten it to shut off. It if I open the valve it drips. I called a plumber and they quoted me $305 to replace both valves $185 labor and $85 for the valves because he said I need water hammer valves and they’re more expensive.
My questions are-
1. Does this need replacing? I’m a little afraid to mess around with it In case I create a bigger problem where the only solution is to cut the house water supply until I can get a plumber here
2. Could the valve have been broken by the previous plumber if he “over-opened” it?
3. Does that price sound right?
4. Do I need the water hammer valves? He said I do for code
Thanks!

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Hi I went to turn off water supply to repair my washing machine and both valves were frozen in place- it’s strange because I am almost positive my plumber shut them off to disconnect the machine to get it out of the way of a recent plumbing repair which means they have been opened and closed within the last month- anyway I was able to loosen them with WD 40- heat from a hairdryer, tapping with a wrench, and slow steady pressure. The hot one is fine, the cold one was squeaky when I was turning it back and forth to slowly loosen, then it started dripping from the handle. I’ve gotten it to shut off. It if I open the valve it drips. I called a plumber and they quoted me $305 to replace both valves $185 labor and $85 for the valves because he said I need water hammer valves and they’re more expensive.
My questions are-
1. Does this need replacing? I’m a little afraid to mess around with it In case I create a bigger problem where the only solution is to cut the house water supply until I can get a plumber here
2. Could the valve have been broken by the previous plumber if he “over-opened” it?
3. Does that price sound right?
4. Do I need the water hammer valves? He said I do for code
Thanks!
Also. What kind of valves do it need if I decide to purchase them myself to save a few bucks
 

Reach4

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Also. What kind of valves do it need if I decide to purchase them myself to save a few bucks
How will you install? If you have a powerful heat source, and will drain 1/2 inch copper pipe, and heat soldered-on valves, pull the valve off, wipe excess solder, you could consider "boiler drain valves". The 1/2 inch size has both MIP threads plus it can alternatively be soldered onto a copper pipe. I am not a pro.

There may be alternatives.
 

Mr tee

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You might try loosening the packing nut a bit. It could be that there was a slight drip and the plumber cranked down hard on the packing nut to stop it. You might get by with new packing.
 

Terry

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It may be that the copper stubouts have 1/2" male adapters soldered on and that the valves are threaded to those.
You can add hammer arrestors to the hoses.

hammer-arrestor-sicoince.jpg
 

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How will you install? If you have a powerful heat source, and will drain 1/2 inch copper pipe, and heat soldered-on valves, pull the valve off, wipe excess solder, you could consider "boiler drain valves". The 1/2 inch size has both MIP threads plus it can alternatively be soldered onto a copper pipe. I am not a pro.

There may be alternatives.
I think boiler drain valves it’s what’s there now so I think that would work
 

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You might try loosening the packing nut a bit. It could be that there was a slight drip and the plumber cranked down hard on the packing nut to stop it. You might get by with new packing.
Loosen it? Wouldn’t that make it leak more? Pretty sure he over tightened everything because now I went to remove the supply lines and those won’t budge either. Way overtightened. I’m pretty sure he would have told me if there was a leak, but I also think he would know not to tighten things so hard that they can’t be removed, or end up breaking.
 

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It may be that the copper stubouts have 1/2" male adapters soldered on and that the valves are threaded to those.
You can add hammer arrestors to the hoses.

hammer-arrestor-sicoince.jpg
I can put them straight on the machine? To put on the valves would probably be awkward and they would end up horizontal. Is it true that it’s a code thing? I don’t think we have a problem with water hammer so don’t see why we need these.
 

Reach4

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Loosen it? Wouldn’t that make it leak more? Pretty sure he over tightened everything because now I went to remove the supply lines and those won’t budge either. Way overtightened. I’m pretty sure he would have told me if there was a leak, but I also think he would know not to tighten things so hard that they can’t be removed, or end up breaking.

Good point on trying to fix the packing before moving on to the more difficult change of the faucet.

The nut around the stem, close to the handle is the packing nut. What I would do is to remove the handle. Remove the packing nut. Then wrap maybe 3 or four turns of packing cord clockwise around the handle, and put the packing nut back snugly, which compresses the packing cord. That seals against the rotating stem. Still leaks at the stem? Add more.

I like the white PTFE packing cord, and others prefer the black graphite-packed version.


 
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