Relief Valve

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GCC

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I can take it out as long as that doesn’t create an issue. I just installed the expsnsion tank. Is it supported ok on a 6” brass nipple? 4.5 gallon tank…if at worst case it fills with water at some point, I’d this ok?
 

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Jeff H Young

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there are plumbers that do it all the time like that, and plumbers that cus them for doing so .. Im not 100 percent code wise, same thing there some say it meets others say no, gotta read through the code and manufacture instructions. A lot of people dont buy the Upside down tank either though most or at least installation instructions say upside down is fine.
 

GCC

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there are plumbers that do it all the time like that, and plumbers that cus them for doing so .. Im not 100 percent code wise, same thing there some say it meets others say no, gotta read through the code and manufacture instructions. A lot of people dont buy the Upside down tank either though most or at least installation instructions say upside down is fine.
Instructions for this had upside down as an option. Just wasn’t sure if the weight on that nipple was ok. Instructions say to use strapping “if needed”…..but it shows it on piping. Not sure if the heavier nipple makes it more secure.

I’ll see what happens with the relief valve outside the house. If it is still leaking I’ll just take it out.

Thanks.
 

Jeff H Young

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Instructions for this had upside down as an option. Just wasn’t sure if the weight on that nipple was ok. Instructions say to use strapping “if needed”…..but it shows it on piping. Not sure if the heavier nipple makes it more secure.

I’ll see what happens with the relief valve outside the house. If it is still leaking I’ll just take it out.

Thanks.
Differant opinions not so much on the upside down because instructions say its ok . but on the supported verticle tank its debateable if its mounted horrizontal at least One company Watts says it must be supported
 

GCC

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Differant opinions not so much on the upside down because instructions say its ok . but on the supported verticle tank its debateable if its mounted horrizontal at least One company Watts says it must be supported

Ok. I mean - I can buy the straps they sell and reconfigure it. Actually prefer to not have it upside down for when I eventually have to disconnect it. Since my house is plumbed with Cpvc it makes me nervous to put any weight on it.

If I move the tee to coming right off the cpvc pipe, I could run the supply hose straight to the heater and mount the exp tank right side up to the wall using the mounting straps. Then I could connect it to the tee with any type of pipe since the straps should be supporting it. Is that a better plan?
 

GReynolds929

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We mount them with brass nipples and fittings in that orientation on every water heater we install. No concerns about support or anything else. 2 gallons of water isn't going to stress the brass. Be sure to pre charge the tank to your incoming water pressure with compressed air.
 

GCC

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We mount them with brass nipples and fittings in that orientation on every water heater we install. No concerns about support or anything else. 2 gallons of water isn't going to stress the brass. Be sure to pre charge the tank to your incoming water pressure with compressed air.
It’s a 4.5 gallon tank. Is that still ok?
 

GCC

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Add a block of wood or piece plastic pipe to support the horizontal pipe against the top of the WH.

See https://www.terrylove.com/forums/in...ecific-time-of-night.98005/page-5#post-710164
Ok - I wedged some wood under there. The water heater itself is like 5 years old. When it goes I’ll reconfigure eveything. For now, the wood is there.

That stupid relief valve still is dribbling a little. I’m wondering if it is just bad out of the box. If the water pressure itseld is at 60-65, not sure why a 75 psi one would leak at all. Just doesn’t make sense.
 

Reach4

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Ok - I wedged some wood under there. The water heater itself is like 5 years old. When it goes I’ll reconfigure eveything. For now, the wood is there.

That stupid relief valve still is dribbling a little. I’m wondering if it is just bad out of the box. If the water pressure itseld is at 60-65, not sure why a 75 psi one would leak at all. Just doesn’t make sense.
Dribbling after a shower? Assuming a closed system (check valve at water meter), the pressure will rise after you use hot water and then stop using water. It does not have to rise far to hit 75 psi.
 

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Ok - I wedged some wood under there. The water heater itself is like 5 years old. When it goes I’ll reconfigure eveything. For now, the wood is there.

That stupid relief valve still is dribbling a little. I’m wondering if it is just bad out of the box. If the water pressure itseld is at 60-65, not sure why a 75 psi one would leak at all. Just doesn’t make sense.
If you want to fix it without diagnosing the actually cause add a regulator, eliminate the 70 psi relief and be sure to pipe t and p to safe area and leave the expansion tank in place
 

GCC

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If you want to fix it without diagnosing the actually cause add a regulator, eliminate the 70 psi relief and be sure to pipe t and p to safe area and leave the expansion tank in place
I mean - if I am being honest, I do want to diagnose it, if nothing else cause I would learn something - but it’s much better. T and P is piped to the outside of the garage. I don’t really have the room the way it is in the garage for a regulator but I could try to put one outside. But - It isn’t dripping anymore, although a drop forms over time. That’s way better than it was. I came home at 5 and there was a single drop formed on the edge of the threaded connection. I wiped it down so it was dry. I just went out (4 hours later ) it isn’t dry but there isn’t enough water to even form a drop. It’s just not totally dry. I’ll keep an eye on it to see if it is better. Maybe it is fixed??
 

Jeff H Young

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It might stop but reach 4 mentioned trying to adjust it. around here we dont use a relief valve although city of los angeles does possibly the county but other wise they are pretty much unheard of using but common in Florida I really dont see the need however High pressures in the rangeof 125 or 150 right at the max where the water heater starts spitting is hard on the tank not dangerously so but where it could shorten the life
Evedently you have a guage and can monitor leave it on and open the hose bib to note pressure differant times if you dont have a closedsystem it shouldnt rise in pressure from your water heater. also ask your water company if there is a check or antibackflow that will cause thermal pressure expansion.
 

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Just an update - the relief valve hasn't been leaking lately. It's been dry. I don't check it every day, but when I have it has been dry, so I will leave it alone. Thanks for the help!!!
 

John Gayewski

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I didn't read through all of these posts, but I don't think the first picture is a relief valve. I think it's a cheap p. O. S prv.


Edit
Google search actually looks more like a relief now. The product info I read said it was to help protect tanks and components on the cold water side. My guess is that your can get rid of it unless you're worried about high pressure damaging something in the house.
 
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Jeff H Young

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I guess a relief valve outside is common way to handle thermal expansion in florida the valve has a lower setting than the 150 psi on the t and p and should keep pressure down lower . we always use x tanks out here . Aceeptable in IPC and I think they might meet upc as well its supposed to have a certain listing Ive never used them
 
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