Instructions for this had upside down as an option. Just wasn’t sure if the weight on that nipple was ok. Instructions say to use strapping “if needed”…..but it shows it on piping. Not sure if the heavier nipple makes it more secure.there are plumbers that do it all the time like that, and plumbers that cus them for doing so .. Im not 100 percent code wise, same thing there some say it meets others say no, gotta read through the code and manufacture instructions. A lot of people dont buy the Upside down tank either though most or at least installation instructions say upside down is fine.
Differant opinions not so much on the upside down because instructions say its ok . but on the supported verticle tank its debateable if its mounted horrizontal at least One company Watts says it must be supportedInstructions for this had upside down as an option. Just wasn’t sure if the weight on that nipple was ok. Instructions say to use strapping “if needed”…..but it shows it on piping. Not sure if the heavier nipple makes it more secure.
I’ll see what happens with the relief valve outside the house. If it is still leaking I’ll just take it out.
Thanks.
Differant opinions not so much on the upside down because instructions say its ok . but on the supported verticle tank its debateable if its mounted horrizontal at least One company Watts says it must be supported
It’s a 4.5 gallon tank. Is that still ok?We mount them with brass nipples and fittings in that orientation on every water heater we install. No concerns about support or anything else. 2 gallons of water isn't going to stress the brass. Be sure to pre charge the tank to your incoming water pressure with compressed air.
Ok - I wedged some wood under there. The water heater itself is like 5 years old. When it goes I’ll reconfigure eveything. For now, the wood is there.Add a block of wood or piece plastic pipe to support the horizontal pipe against the top of the WH.
See https://www.terrylove.com/forums/in...ecific-time-of-night.98005/page-5#post-710164
Dribbling after a shower? Assuming a closed system (check valve at water meter), the pressure will rise after you use hot water and then stop using water. It does not have to rise far to hit 75 psi.Ok - I wedged some wood under there. The water heater itself is like 5 years old. When it goes I’ll reconfigure eveything. For now, the wood is there.
That stupid relief valve still is dribbling a little. I’m wondering if it is just bad out of the box. If the water pressure itseld is at 60-65, not sure why a 75 psi one would leak at all. Just doesn’t make sense.
If you want to fix it without diagnosing the actually cause add a regulator, eliminate the 70 psi relief and be sure to pipe t and p to safe area and leave the expansion tank in placeOk - I wedged some wood under there. The water heater itself is like 5 years old. When it goes I’ll reconfigure eveything. For now, the wood is there.
That stupid relief valve still is dribbling a little. I’m wondering if it is just bad out of the box. If the water pressure itseld is at 60-65, not sure why a 75 psi one would leak at all. Just doesn’t make sense.
I mean - if I am being honest, I do want to diagnose it, if nothing else cause I would learn something - but it’s much better. T and P is piped to the outside of the garage. I don’t really have the room the way it is in the garage for a regulator but I could try to put one outside. But - It isn’t dripping anymore, although a drop forms over time. That’s way better than it was. I came home at 5 and there was a single drop formed on the edge of the threaded connection. I wiped it down so it was dry. I just went out (4 hours later ) it isn’t dry but there isn’t enough water to even form a drop. It’s just not totally dry. I’ll keep an eye on it to see if it is better. Maybe it is fixed??If you want to fix it without diagnosing the actually cause add a regulator, eliminate the 70 psi relief and be sure to pipe t and p to safe area and leave the expansion tank in place
This is awkward, but...
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