P-trap arm breaking at wall outlet

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Dogsbestfriend

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Hello and thanks in advance for any advice. Replacing an old kitchen p-trap and arm. Old arm was badly corroded and is stuck in the pvc wall adapter. Tried using a screwdriver around the pipe to loosen it (no luck) and when trying to twist it out, the metal has started sheering away at the coupling. (green circle) Based on searching here, seems like there are a few options:

1. Continue working / crushing old pipe, maybe use penetrating spray (PB?), and basically just work it out in pieces. If I try this, and the pipe fully sheers off at coupling, then what about the bit of old pipe that will be left in the pvc coupling? How would I get that out?
2. Cut the damaged pipe short and used a rubber coupling (fernco?) to connect the new arm. Have not used a rubber coupling before, not sure if it would seal properly given where the old arm has already sheered.

Am I missing a better solution? Appreciate any insight, trying to avoid making the problem worse.

ptrap pipe.jpg
 

WorthFlorida

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The old pipe is wedge in or crud has stuck it to the smooth inside wall of the PVC. With pliers (long nose perhaps) grab the pipe and twist it so in collapses onto itself. As you twist it also wiggle it. Just don't over do it where the PVC might crack. The pipe is fairly thin so a small screwdriver may work between the metal and the PVC but use light taps with a hammer. Another way is with a large set of channel locks, grab the entire pipe and again twist and pull.

You not be able to use a furnco since the slip joint thread is not enough to thread on a coupling and I think the thread is not the same as a coupling would be.
 

Terry

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Once you remove the brass p-trap, a new PVC trap would be better. That installs with the 1.5" slip joint nut and washer.
PVC traps last forever.

p-trap_with_adapter.jpg


p-trap-parts-terrylove-01.jpg
 
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Dogsbestfriend

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The old pipe is wedge in or crud has stuck it to the smooth inside wall of the PVC. With pliers (long nose perhaps) grab the pipe and twist it so in collapses onto itself. As you twist it also wiggle it. Just don't over do it where the PVC might crack. The pipe is fairly thin so a small screwdriver may work between the metal and the PVC but use light taps with a hammer. Another way is with a large set of channel locks, grab the entire pipe and again twist and pull.

You not be able to use a furnco since the slip joint thread is not enough to thread on a coupling and I think the thread is not the same as a coupling would be.
Thanks for the reply. With a little patience, I was able to take a small screwdriver and tap around the edge. It finally came loose with a wrench, it was definitely stuck tight due to crud buildup. Very much appreciated!
 

Breplum

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Once you remove the brass p-trap, a new PVC trap would be better. That installs with the 1.5" slip joint nut and washer.
PVC traps last forever.

p-trap_with_adapter.jpg


p-trap-parts-terrylove-01.jpg
Terry is calling this PVC, but technically for the cheaper ones, it is polypropylene most of the time.
Oatey does make a heavy duty one out of PVC for $13. but there's no reason to spend more than $5 for the poly...they'll last forever.
 
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