No anode in 40 gal electric water heater?

[Xspook]

Hi,

I am trying to replace the anode rod in my hot water heater but I can't find it.

This was installed new by a pro plumber 3 years ago. As part of the recommended maintentance, I was going to replace the anode. I found several online videos and it looked to be a fairly simple project.

After opening all the available "ports" on the top, there appears to be no anode.

I called the company that installed it (new owner now) and before my phone died, he said something about the anode is connected to the dip tube.

Per the documentaion I have, it's supposed to be in the rear port behind the cold water inlet. It's definitely not there or in any other available/unused port.

Also, for some reason, the pressure relief valve is located on the top of the unit vs. the side. Is this where the anode should be?

How long would you expect this to last if it has no anode?

Thanks in advance for your assistance.

 

[Reach4]

A O Smith has, at least sometimes, a "combo" anode rod.

http://www.askme********.com/plumbing/changing-combo-anode-404686.html

 

[Sponsor]

 

[Xspook]

Many thanks for the quick reply.

So, if it has a combo rod, it looks to be something the basic homeowner could not replace. Those connections look to be soldered.

Also, as you can see, I dug out about 5" of insulation from the fill holes. Should I bother refilling them?

 

[Reach4]

I suggest you search for replace "combo anode" "a o smith" in your favorite search engine. Most people do not even check anodes. I put a powered anode into mine, but it was a conventional separate anode.

When done, I would stuff in what you can.

 

[ImOld]

You should find something else to occupy your time.

I have owned five homes with five electric water heaters that ranged up to 20 years old.

I have never replaced anything on any of them and there has never been a failure of any kind.

You do not need to change the anode or anything else for that matter.

Drain it every few years if you're getting antsy and can't stay away from it.

It will not explode, rot away or give you warts.

Keep screwing around with it and I guarantee you will end up needing a new one.

And while I'm at it, how come your plumber didn't put in the pressure relief pipe drain and I'll bet there's no pan and drain under the tank.

 

[JerryR]

And while I'm at it, how come your plumber didn't put in the pressure relief pipe drain and I'll bet there's no pan and drain under the tank.

Typically in Florida water heaters are installed in garages directly on concrete floor and the pressure relief is routed outside rather than above a floor drain.

You can see the pressure relief is mounted on tank top with drain exiting behind the heater. My guess is that it exits to the outside of the house, just like the 7 other Florida houses I've owned.

None of my 7 Florida homes have ever had a pan installed. The heaters were installed in garages on concrete floors where the garage is 5-6" below house slab and garage floor is pitched so water will drain out the garage if the tank gives out.

Your not the only old guy, you know

 

[ImOld]

Your not the only old guy, you know

Oh, yeah!

Well, I'm so old, my neighbors from the Bronx, the guys who made you an offer you couldn't refuse, were selling swamp land down there in Florida back in the day. Isn't it ironic that now it is all filled in with a gazillion $$$ worth of Disney World, etc.

Yeah, I know all about your concrete block on slab houses.

It's not natural for humans to live without a basement.

 

[DonL]

Many thanks for the quick reply.

So, if it has a combo rod, it looks to be something the basic homeowner could not replace. Those connections look to be soldered.

Also, as you can see, I dug out about 5" of insulation from the fill holes. Should I bother refilling them?

It may be a good Idea to put some insulation back in the holes.

Them plugs are just where they shoot the foam in.

I agree about normally not needing to mess with the anode rod, but that depends on your water quality.


Have Fun.