New pressure switch not turning

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jcwahler

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The past 2 days our pressure switch has not been coming on by itself. We could manually turn it on to pressure up enough for a shower but it would not stay on without being pushed manually. We replaced the switch today but the new one is doing the same thing.
 

Reach4

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Do you have a lever on the switch?
 

Reach4

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So you are removing the pressure switch cover and pressing on the armature to turn the switch on.

When you do that, what PSI does the pressure gauge indicate?

How about a photo that includes the pressure gauge, the pressure switch, and the input to the pressure tank.
 

LLigetfa

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One cause for pressure switches that don't toggle on at the preset is minerals or sediment buildup under the switch's diaphragm. I have experienced this on old switches but cannot imagine how this could happen quickly on a new switch.

My only theory is that was the root cause on the old switch and that coincidentally the new switch is defective and manifesting the same symptom.

How you are manually turning it on? Are you moving the plate that the spring presses against (shown by arrows) causing the contacts to close?
18-09-11-27.png
 

Bannerman

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Assuming it is on the end of a 1/4" pipe, try removing the pipe and see if it is plugged.
Since the 1/4" nipple was not plugged, suggest checking the tank Tee where the nipple threads into, to verify the path to the connection is not plugged. Too coincidental for two pressure switches, one brand new, to malfunction in an identical manner.
 

jcwahler

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So as of last night it is now working. But we don't have very good pressure. When we get some time we aer going to check the pressure on the pressure tank and flush the hot water heater.
 

Valveman

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30/50 is low pressure to start with. Then with any clogged filters or anything the pressure will be even worse. The air in the tank needs to be checked, but won't have anything to do with the low pressure, only pump cycling.

Put 35 PSI air in the tank. Turn the large adjustment screw in the pressure switch 3 full turns to the right and you will have 40/60 pressure, which is better than 30/50. But still the pump coming on at 40 and off at 60 over and over will make the pressure seem low. Adding a Cycle Stop Valve to hold the pressure at a strong and constant 50 or 55 PSI will seem like so much stronger pressure you will no longer even need soap in the shower.

I hate it when well owners complain about pressure. It is YOUR pump system. You can have as much pressure as you want, you just have to make it happen. Not only will the Cycle Stop Valve give you pressure stronger than any city supply, but will also make your pump last longer by eliminating the cycling that destroys most pumps.

 

jcwahler

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30/50 is low pressure to start with. Then with any clogged filters or anything the pressure will be even worse. The air in the tank needs to be checked, but won't have anything to do with the low pressure, only pump cycling.

Put 35 PSI air in the tank. Turn the large adjustment screw in the pressure switch 3 full turns to the right and you will have 40/60 pressure, which is better than 30/50. But still the pump coming on at 40 and off at 60 over and over will make the pressure seem low. Adding a Cycle Stop Valve to hold the pressure at a strong and constant 50 or 55 PSI will seem like so much stronger pressure you will no longer even need soap in the shower.

I hate it when well owners complain about pressure. It is YOUR pump system. You can have as much pressure as you want, you just have to make it happen. Not only will the Cycle Stop Valve give you pressure stronger than any city supply, but will also make your pump last longer by eliminating the cycling that destroys most pumps.

Thank you so much! This helps alot!
 
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