New construction service question

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SE Michigan
Hello all,

Long time reader whose dug though a lot of posts on here but was looking to expand my knowledge before going into a new construction project on our future home. I was trying to get some further information before I go to the city with my numbers, and was looking for some advice from more of the seasoned people on here.

- Water pressure is between 50 and 55 PSI per the township.
- From the street tap to the basement where the meter will be located, its approx 400-450'.
- The farthest point from the meter to the upstairs hook up will be approx 150'.

So using the knowledge that I think I have learned from here, the maximum allowable length is for the entire run from tap to hookup, so I would be looking at the 600' maximum?

Using the WFU, I come up with approx 83 WFUs. I would like to stick with a 1" water meter, as the cost from a 1" to a 1.5" is 5 times the cost per year for the RTS fees.

- I want to do a manifold in the basement with individual home runs to every single fixture throughout the house vs doing remote manifolds.
- The hot water system will be a total of 4 tankless heaters, providing point of service to each part of the home.
- The system will be comprised of PEX-B.

Looking at the chart, to give me the distance with the WFU,with a 1" meter and a 2" building and supply, I can get 85 WFU's at 600'. My thoughts were having the supply from the city come in via 2" poly pipe, transition to a 1" meter, back to 2" supply from the meter to the manifold, which would also be a 2" branching off to the individual home runs.

For sizing the smaller PEX B line, I was up-sizing each line to the next size up to account for the flow restriction. An example would be the kitchen sink, which requires a minimum of 1/2" line, but up-sizing to a 3/4" or 5/8".

Pricing is not an issue, I just want to make a nice clean system with a central hub for turning fixtures on and off in the basement with straight home runs. I am in the preliminary stages of purchasing property, and I am just looking for advice before I go out further to do some cost analysis with this information. The township is already charging $30,000 in tap fees, and they don't even do the tap themselves, which is an additonal cost for me to hire someone else.
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I am not going thru your numbers, but I have some comments. I would consider 1-1/4 SIDR polyethylene pipe, or whatever your local plumbing supply uses. Note that SIDR is bigger ID than PEX with the same nominal size. Big PEX is expensive. Similar to SIDR is IPS sized polyethylene. There are special compression fittings for that, where SIDR uses barbed fittings attached with worm gear stainless steel clamps. There is also CTS polyethylene. Not as big as SIDR or IPS, but it is popular with many water companies. Again, special compression fittings, I think.

Also note that if you don't use hot water recirculation, it will take longer for hot to arrive if using 3/4 rather than 1/2.

So the meter will be by the street, rather than closer to the house, I presume. You might decide to put a yard hydrant along the path.

Very important to pressure at the house is the altitude rise. More important than distance. Has the water company told you what pressure will be coming in at the street? is a simplified pressure drop calculator. is more complex.

It is not a waste to use 1-1/4 inch pipe after a 1-inch or even 3/4 inch meter. Pressure drops add, rather than having the flow (or pressure drop) determined by the smallest path.

Jeff H Young

In the Trades
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because our meters are at the curb its often to have a 1 inch line from the big main to meter at curb My house has 1 1/2" line going to house from meter , irrigation and firesprinkler its not a long run .
I would run 2 inch to the basement hook up a 1 inch meter then go 1 1/2 " to begin distribution and figure it out from there . I wouldnt get too crazy 3/4 to kitchen sink thats ok but dont be scared to pick up refrigerator on same line. since the "house" has 4 water heaters and the total run inside the house is 150 foot maybe the hot watrer runs wont be execessive. good luck with project!
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