Need to replace a quarter turn ball valve with a full port ball valve to get full pressure outside the house for irrigations

Users who are viewing this thread

wwhitney

In the Trades
Messages
5,624
Reaction score
1,451
Points
113
Location
Berkeley, CA
My copper female adapter needed tape so it is not tappered. From what I read the tapperd fittings don't need tape
Incorrect. Your copper female adapter is tapered. Connections between a tapered male and tapered female always need a thread sealant, which can be teflon tape, pipe dope, or both.

Cheers, Wayne
 

Reach4

Well-Known Member
Messages
35,900
Reaction score
3,750
Points
113
Location
IL
My copper female adapter needed tape so it is not tappered. From what I read the tapperd fittings don't need tape
You misread or read something that was wrong.
 

Mini Me

Member
Messages
321
Reaction score
11
Points
18
Location
Toronto
You are probably right
I am going to remove the thing from there and look again
 

Mini Me

Member
Messages
321
Reaction score
11
Points
18
Location
Toronto
MIP = male NPT




Cheers, Wayne
this is killing me, I can't find similar parts at Canadian suppliers or on Amazon.ca, either they don't exist OR I do not know what other equivalent key words or terms to use because it seems there is lots of these equivalent terms
 

wwhitney

In the Trades
Messages
5,624
Reaction score
1,451
Points
113
Location
Berkeley, CA
Here you go, not sure if the first one is "lead free" or if it's required to be in Canada:


Cheers, Wayne
 

Mini Me

Member
Messages
321
Reaction score
11
Points
18
Location
Toronto
Here you go, not sure if the first one is "lead free" or if it's required to be in Canada:


Cheers, Wayne
THANK YOU!
How about the street tee...that one is brutal to search as it can be spelt in a thousands ways
Found this one but there is no way to say if it is 3/8" at the female ends or it is 1/2". the parts you suggested above are all 1/2" at the male end so I guess I need 1/2" female
I would prefer to find it on Amazon.ca as I have free shipping there with Amazon Prime
 
Last edited:

Bannerman

Well-Known Member
Messages
4,324
Reaction score
610
Points
113
Location
Ontario, Canada
While the suggestions you have so far received are correct, there will continue to be bottlenecks regardless of what you do outside.

You are installing an irrigation system that is designed with a 3/4" diameter mainline, which is being supplied by 1/2" piping. Perhaps it will not require a 3/4" supply, but that will depend on how many emitters are to operate at the same time, and the flow rate needed for each.

In addition, since we can't see on the other side of your foundation wall, for all any of us know, there maybe a section of 1/2" PEX line feeding the copper exterior faucet stub, and the interior isolation valve may not be a full bore ball valve but may instead be a 1/2" globe valve that will also be restricting the flow rate.

Although 90 psi static pressure will assist to increase the flow rate through the 1/2" supply line, that pressure is too high for a residential application. City of Toronto typically supply ~60 psi through the municipal system, so assuming your gauge is accurate, this leads me to suspect you are utilizing an alternate water source such as a private well?

Since the supply pressure for residential applications should not exceed 80 psi, perhaps your well pump pressure switch setting is too high or, if water is from another source, your Pressure Regulating Valve maybe set too high or is not regulating pressure properly.
 
Last edited:

hj

Master Plumber
Messages
33,533
Reaction score
977
Points
113
Location
Cave Creek, Arizona
Website
www.terrylove.com
NO WHERE in your drawings do I see the REQUIRED ant siphon/backflow preventer. And I hope you ralize that that "valve" is actually a "frost proof" hose faucet which has an integral back siphonage device, NOT a "valve".
 

Mini Me

Member
Messages
321
Reaction score
11
Points
18
Location
Toronto
While the suggestions you have so far received are correct, there will continue to be bottlenecks regardless of what you do outside.

You are installing an irrigation system that is designed with a 3/4" diameter mainline, which is being supplied by 1/2" piping. Perhaps it will not require a 3/4" supply, but that will depend on how many emitters are to operate at the same time, and the flow rate needed for each.

In addition, since we can't see on the other side of your foundation wall, for all any of us know, there maybe a section of 1/2" PEX line feeding the copper exterior faucet stub, and the interior isolation valve may not be a full bore ball valve but may instead be a 1/2" globe valve that will also be restricting the flow rate.

Although 90 psi static pressure will assist to increase the flow rate through the 1/2" supply line, that pressure is too high for a residential application. City of Toronto typically supply ~60 psi through the municipal system, so assuming your gauge is accurate, this leads me to suspect you are utilizing an alternate water source such as a private well?

Since the supply pressure for residential applications should not exceed 80 psi, perhaps your well pump pressure switch setting is too high or, if water is from another source, your Pressure Regulating Valve maybe set too high or is not regulating pressure properly.
THIS WAS A VERY GOOD POINT
I totally forgot about that valve that I turn off when the cold weather is here
Damn ..that ruined all this work. I am not prepared to change that valve, it requires removing drywall, soldering in a tight space. Maybe I should bite the bullet and do it I am the one who soldered the outside copper female adapter so that worked OK and I also soldered two copper to PEX adapters which are still OK after 1 year so it might not be that bad but replacing that valve and having to remove the drywall around it so I can work and then finish and paint back is going to inflate this project more than I wanted it to.

Tthe 3/4" requirement for the PVC pipe line that feeds the irrigation system is based on what is easily available here in the store
Here you can see the initial irrigation design/plan .
However I decided to simplify that to the minimum and use a mix between the in ground and above the ground irrigation system with the plan to upgrade that later to full underground.
Here is a sketch of the new temporary design

yBS79wd.png

With the plumbing design discussed here in this thread (area circled with purple) I thought I would have 3/4" all the way to the manifold.
The plan was to I use impact sprinklers which I do not mind leaving permanently there if I can quick connect them to an underground pipe. With these I could easily cover the two sections of the garden that I need to cover. (see the plans in the link to the irrigation thread).
Considering the needs I could easily cover the areas with impact sprinklers or with oscillating sprinklers
The idea is to permanently build the segment from the water tap to the manifold and from there to test using an old hose that I can cut and use the segments to connect the sprinklers and the manifold quick connect ends. I can test and relocate the sprinklers as I wish, daisy chain them if the pressure allows me to do that and size the system as I go through this experiment.

I think there is still value in building the system as guided in this thread (thanks a lot guys!!) and then later replace that inside valve which is 1/2 most probably and it is a regular valve (one of those with circular handle).
 

Mini Me

Member
Messages
321
Reaction score
11
Points
18
Location
Toronto
NO WHERE in your drawings do I see the REQUIRED ant siphon/backflow preventer. And I hope you ralize that that "valve" is actually a "frost proof" hose faucet which has an integral back siphonage device, NOT a "valve".
I think I did mentioned somewhere that I plan to buy install these but they are not represented in the drawings, see the posts that have Sketchup drawing attached
 

Reach4

Well-Known Member
Messages
35,900
Reaction score
3,750
Points
113
Location
IL
Adding an additional frost free spigot thru the wall might be a good idea.
 

Reach4

Well-Known Member
Messages
35,900
Reaction score
3,750
Points
113
Location
IL
Had no idea that such thing exists, that would eliminate the control valve that I have inside
Edited: The inside stop with a frost free spigot does not have to be turned off each year, but a valve inside could be useful for some things. Do disconnect the hoses before freezing to let the water drain before freezing.
 
Last edited:

wwhitney

In the Trades
Messages
5,624
Reaction score
1,451
Points
113
Location
Berkeley, CA
I totally forgot about that valve that I turn off when the cold weather is here
Did not read the rest of the above post, but why does that matter? If your plan is to blow out the irrigation lines each winter, then the above valve is a good thing. And you just need to install the outside piping to all that.

Cheers, Wayne
 

Mini Me

Member
Messages
321
Reaction score
11
Points
18
Location
Toronto
OK I decided to replace the Iron Pipe that was sticking out of the ground with a garden hose that I will remove at the end of the season. I will use that end to also connect an air compressor to winterize the system.
I decided not to use iron pipe there for two reasons:
-the thread was tapered and it was not going to work well with the straight thread presented by the PVC elbow
-I also needed the point where the PCV pipes exit the ground to be as close as possible to the wall, doing that with iron pipe would have required more fittings

Do you see any problem with this setup ?
I will add a vacuum breaker/backflow preventer upstream of each point where I connect a hose
WMqSreZ.png


What glue/primer do I need for this PVC pipe ?
The description from the above page says it can be glued with cement solvent
Why am I seeing in all the videos that show how to install the Orbit manifold, guys using both primer and cement ?
 
Last edited:

Mini Me

Member
Messages
321
Reaction score
11
Points
18
Location
Toronto
The PVC elbow would typically have tapered threads.

Cheers, Wayne
Don't know what to say, I tried that in the store and it did not feel like it would go properly in when I used iron pipe

However the other reason stands, it would have been too complicated to connect from the full port control valve to the pipe using fittings so I preferred to eliminate the pipe. I am going to use a garden hose adapter (3/4" MHT x 3/4" MIP) that seemed to stick properly in place
 
Top
Hey, wait a minute.

This is awkward, but...

It looks like you're using an ad blocker. We get it, but (1) terrylove.com can't live without ads, and (2) ad blockers can cause issues with videos and comments. If you'd like to support the site, please allow ads.

If any particular ad is your REASON for blocking ads, please let us know. We might be able to do something about it. Thanks.
I've Disabled AdBlock    No Thanks