Kerdi Shower Drain Question

[wwhitney]

Vent is required for proper function and code, 9' away is too far. Wayne

 

[TomV8]

One last question? I know that you have to reduce the 2 inch drain to the 1.5 at the p trap but can that mean the p trap can be two inchs or it has to reduce before?

Thanks for all the help

 

[Sponsor]

 

[wwhitney]

Definitely no reduction of drain size downstream of the p-trap. If you have an existing 1.5" drain you need to use, you must use a 1.5" p trap and reduce from 2" to 1.5" upstream of the trap.

Cheers, Wayne

 

[TomV8]

Definitely no reduction of drain size downstream of the p-trap. If you have an existing 1.5" drain you need to use, you must use a 1.5" p trap and reduce from 2" to 1.5" upstream of the trap.

Cheers, Wayne.

Thanks Wayne.

And while i cementing the water lines i discovered i do have a existing vent that was buried in insulation. It's upstream of the toilet but the top the pipe is about 3.5 inches below the drop.

Think i can scrap the new vent or keep it?

 

[wwhitney]

You'd need to draw a diagram of all the pipes including the vent you found, but unless the existing vent is attachable to the shower trap arm before it has fallen one pipe diameter (1.5"), or is dry venting a drain that the shower trap arm can join before it has fallen one pipe diameter, it will not help you vent your shower.

Cheers, Wayne

 

[TomV8]

Ok top one is the current version. Vent is on the left.

I could cut back the pipe and have a right angle and cut through the joists and then the trap would be at the same level (slope taken in consideration) see picture in next post.

 

[TomV8]

Ignore the blue spots. I accidentally did that before i saved it.

 

[wwhitney]

On the plumbing, as I think I've stated before, you just need to have a dry vent come off vertically before the shower trap arm has fallen one pipe diameter. Since you're sticking with the 1-1/2" drain, the vent can be up to 6' away if you maintain a perfect 1/4" per foot slope, and having a LT90 in between is not an issue. If the recently discovered vent is on the 1-1/2" line before it joins anything else, and meets the above requirements, you can use it in lieu of the new vent you showed previously.

On the framing, the top and bottom flanges of an I-joist are not to be modified in any way. All pipes have to go through the web, and the manufacturer should have a diagram showing what the allowable size holes are. The joist with the notched flange will need a repair. The manufacturer should have information on how to do that as well.

Cheers, Wayne

 

[ZoofactoryDad]

I wanted to register an account to say thank you to both TomV8 and wwhitney (Wayne). The information contained in your threads regarding the Kerdi installation on a 1.5” drain has been extremely helpful for me. I also live in Michigan and our shower drains in Kalamazoo County are 1.5” I will use the proposed reducer to mate the Kerdi drain to the 1.5“ down pipe above the trap. The detail I find challenging is the Kerdi drain is not exactly 2”. It is more like 2 3/4”. (Approximately based on memory from earlier today). Point being that there wasn’t a fitting (3” to 1.5” adapter) I could find at Menards that would fit snugly enough to feel confident in my mock up. If anyone has a link to an image from one of the box stores that fits the bill, I’d certainly be grateful. Great conversation to read your exchanges in the threads in their entirety, especially regarding venting, etc. Confident I will get this project done properly, especially since Z
I have access to below the shower via the garage ceiling. Cheers, Chris

 

[wwhitney]

The detail I find challenging is the Kerdi drain is not exactly 2”. It is more like 2 3/4”. (Approximately based on memory from earlier today).

Exact model of the Kerdi drain you have? And type of pipe you are running between the Kerdi drain and the p-trap?

Cheers, Wayne