Is this pressure tank routing ok or should I change things up?

[Rich V.]

I'm about to replace my well tank due to a leaky bladder but I'm concerned about the layout of the rest of the system.

I will be replacing the tank with the same model (WX-250) and placing it on a "DuraBase Tank Spacer" to keep it off the cement. I will also be using a new stainless tank tee assembly.

Is it ok for the tank tee to be capped on one side and be a dead end or should I run it differently while it's all being replaced anyways?

Am I ok to replace all the white plastic (PVC?) with copper?

Thanks!

 

[Rich V.]

The repeated cycling ON/OFF caused the bladder/diaphragm to prematurely fail.

The tank I'm replacing was installed in 1996, and I wouldn't think 28 years would be considered a premature fail.

 

[Sponsor]

 

[Valveman]

The tank I'm replacing was installed in 1996, and I wouldn't think 28 years would be considered a premature fail.

It doesn't matter how long it lasted, the diaphragm was still destroyed from the pump cycling on and off. If it lasted 28 years of cycling, it would have lasted twice that long with a Cycle Stop Valve. A smaller tank with a CSV may only last the same 28 years as the larger tank. But it would have also supplied 28 years of strong constant pressure that you don't get with a large tank.

 

[Rich V.]

It doesn't matter how long it lasted, the diaphragm was still destroyed from the pump cycling on and off. If it lasted 28 years of cycling, it would have lasted twice that long with a Cycle Stop Valve. A smaller tank with a CSV may only last the same 28 years as the larger tank. But it would have also supplied 28 years of strong constant pressure that you don't get with a large tank.

56 years huh?

Is it possible to get answers to the questions in my post, or is it only going to be CSV astrofturfing?

 

[Gsmith22]

for the original questions: copper is better than pvc on water supply (assuming no acidic or low LSI concerns) so by all means replace it. in your photo its hard to tell where the water is coming from/going too. Usually, the only "dead end" is the drain valve, pump pressure switch (tyically going up), or the pressure relief valve. The drain valve and pressure relief valves are typically placed opposite the tank connection and water comes in from left and goes out right (or comes in from right goes out left).

I concur on the CSV spam, it gets old fast

 

[Valveman]

Yep. 56 years. Leaky bladder is caused by the pump cycling. It could last 28 days, 28 months, or 28 years, depending on how heavily the pump system is used. I didn't bring it up this time but the CSV gets brought up because it solves nearly every problem associated with a pump and pressure tank system.

I would use PVC pipe, a CSV with a 10 gallon size pressure tank mounted on the wall where it won't touch the floor or take up floor space. You also wouldn't need to dead end the tank that way. Dead ending the tank is OK, just settlement and stuff sometimes doesn't get flushed out to the tank. I know you would like the much stronger constant pressure in the house. But since you have never experience it, you won't know what you are missing. But I have only done a few bazillion of these since my first one in 1968, so what do I know?

 

[Reach4]

Is it possible to get answers to the questions in my post

1. It is OK to replace PVC with copper.
2. A tank tee with a drain valve in one end would not be considered a dead leg.

When repiping, take the opportunity to get rid of galvanized.

Consider sanitizing your well and plumbing after making those changes. https://terrylove.com/forums/index....izing-extra-attention-to-4-inch-casing.65845/ is my write-up.

 

[Rich V.]

for the original questions: copper is better than pvc on water supply (assuming no acidic or low LSI concerns) so by all means replace it. in your photo its hard to tell where the water is coming from/going too. Usually, the only "dead end" is the drain valve, pump pressure switch (tyically going up), or the pressure relief valve. The drain valve and pressure relief valves are typically placed opposite the tank connection and water comes in from left and goes out right (or comes in from right goes out left).

I concur on the CSV spam, it gets old fast

The hole in the wall is the pump line, so when the pump is running, water is coming into the galvanized tee, down the PVC, into the tank tee assembly, and then into the curved copper line into the tank.

The water to the house is up from the galvanized tee.

 

[Rich V.]

When repiping, take the opportunity to get rid of galvanized.

I definitely planned on replacing the galvanized, thank you for the reminder.

Consider sanitizing your well and plumbing after making those changes. https://terrylove.com/forums/index....izing-extra-attention-to-4-inch-casing.65845/ is my write-up.

My well pump has a Lemco Drawdown seal mounted directly above the pump. Is this procedure still necessary or possible in this case?

 

[Reach4]

I was unfamiliar with that, but I found and read https://terrylove.com/forums/index.php?threads/drawdown-seal.13055/

It appears to me that would prevent you from sanitizing the well. There is a way you could sanitize the plumbing and pressure tank, by circulating sanitizing solution into the drain valve. I am not confident that is worthwhile. I am not a pro.

 

[Sarg]

I would also chime in & suggest changing out the pressure switch including the connecting 1/4" pipe nipple and the pressure gauge. They also have a limited lifespan ....... so starting fresh is a good idea.
And you mention using a stainless steel Tee so be aware that getting stainless steel components water tight is difficult so use tape and dope the first time assembling to save frustration. Stainless steel threads do not "stretch" as I was guided years ago by Valveman when I updated our system . ( I would use brass )
And also just to mention ..... I have two wells ... one for the house and one utility ...... both with CSV's and no regrets.