Is this a FIP connection?

[Murphysf]

Hi

In the attached photo of a toilet shut off valve is the connection to the nipple coming out of the wall a FIP connection?


Question number two, the outside diameter of the nipple is about .95 inches is this a 1/2 in nipple?

If so I am thinking of getting this

BrassCraft 1/2 in. FIP Inlet x 3/8 in. Compression Outlet 1/4-Turn Angle Valve G2R17X C1 - The Home Depot

BrassCraft 1/2 in. FIP Inlet x 3/8 in. O.D. Compression Outlet 1/4-Turn Angle Valve controls water flow to household plumbing fixtures - faucets, toilets, dishwashers, icemakers, washing machines, etc.

www.homedepot.com

 

[Reach4]

Looks like it, but nipple OD would be 0.840.

So that valve would be FIP in and compression out.

You could not get that compression nut off, so you are going to saw the tubing?

 

[Sponsor]

 

[Murphysf]

Yes I can get the comression nut off. Its just really old and am putting a new toilet in so thought I would change the valve.

So back to the OD of the nipple, what else can be going on if its not 1/2" nipple?

Thanks

 

[Reach4]

Are you sure you did not have your caliper not square to the pipe?

 

[Murphysf]

Are you sure you did not have your caliper not square to the pipe?

yes I'm square, measured 3 times

 

[Reach4]

It is possible to have a chromed brass sleeve over some smaller pipe/nipple. That sure does not look what is happening in your picture.

I looked for 5/8 pipe or NPT. I did not find either.

 

[hj]

It IS 1/2". There is nothing between 1/2"and 3/4" piping.

 

[Murphysf]

i took another photo trying to get the backside of the valve. I don't see any threads on the nipple.


I also noticed that and the thickness of the valve's inlet where one would put a wrench is just a tad bigger than the pipe.

 

[Reach4]

Could it be that there has been paint or other buildup that expands the OD and hides the threads?

 

[Murphysf]

Could it be that there has been paint or other buildup that expands the OD and hides the threads?

not really, I rotate the sharp jaws of the calipers to see if I could break anything away

 

[Murphysf]

this might be a dumb question,

could it be a sweat inlet?

 

[Breplum]

It is not sweat, there is a sleeve (used to be chrome!) that hides the threads and likely, galvanized nipple.
You will want to change the nipple to brass and get a 1/2" ip x 3/8" comp. angle stop, and use a no-burst 3/8" x ballcock flex riser.

 

[WorthFlorida]

How old is old? Most of CA used galvanized pipe. Copper pipe maybe after the 1950's.

You might find that the pipe may unthread from inside the wall at the elbow if it is galvanized pipe.

 

[Murphysf]

How old is old? Most of CA used galvanized pipe. Copper pipe maybe after the 1950's.

You might find that the pipe may unthread from inside the wall at the elbow if it is galvanized pipe.

home was built in 1954, this installation is a toilet in the corner of the garage, not sure if it was put in when the house was built or after. the supply pipe that is dropping down the wall behind the toilet is copper, I can see it as it is drops down from the open ceiling in the garage

 

[Reach4]

Copper pipe will not attract a magnet. A chromed sleeve over galvanized will attract the magnet. An unsleeved steel pipe will more strongly attract the magnet.

 

[Murphysf]

It is not sweat, there is a sleeve (used to be chrome!) that hides the threads and likely, galvanized nipple.
You will want to change the nipple to brass and get a 1/2" ip x 3/8" comp. angle stop, and use a no-burst 3/8" x ballcock flex riser.

last night when I got home from work, upon closer inspection it is a sleeve as Breplum stated. I was able to spin the sleeve around the nipple.

So if I want to twist the angle stop off how do I grip and hold the nipple? Do I just squeeze the sleeve really hard and crush it a bit to get some pressure on the nipple to support it while unscrewing the angle stop?

.

 

[John Gayewski]

It could both be a sleeve over copper pipe and sweat into the angle stop. This is actually my likley guess.

Along with that, It could also be threaded with a sleeve.

Turn the water off. Let the water out. Heat and twist. If it's threaded it'll come off. If it's sweat you'll need more heat, but it'll still come off.

 

[Murphysf]

It could both be a sleeve over copper pipe and sweat into the angle stop. This is actually my likley guess.

Along with that, It could also be threaded with a sleeve.

Turn the water off. Let the water out. Heat and twist. If it's threaded it'll come off. If it's sweat you'll need more heat, but it'll still coIn

Interesting idea about it maybe being a copper pipe / sweat into the angle stop.

A couple of thoughts that might help determine if it is.

Does a sweat inlet typically have notches on the end for a wrench? Mine has the notches for a wrench.

The OD I measured is .95 in. this is the measurement of the sleeve.

The OD of a 1/2 copper pipe is .625. so the difference is .325 which would mean that the thickness of the sleeve would be half of .325, which is .1625, this is more than an 1/8 which seems very thick for a sleeve?

Assuming it is threaded how do I hold or support the nipple when I go to twist the angle stop off?

Thanks

 

[wwhitney]

Assuming it is threaded how do I hold or support the nipple when I go to twist the angle stop off?

If the sleeve has a wall escutcheon that is sized to slide over it, you might be able to pull the escutcheon away from the wall and expose enough of the nipple to get a wrench on it. Otherwise, seems like you can't get to the nipple without crushing the sleeve or destructively removing it.

The alternative would be just to use one wrench, in which case either the next upstream joint will hold, and you remove just the stop, or it won't, and you remove both the stop and the nipple. Seems like you'd want to remove the nipple even if it doesn't come out with the stop, just because you might have loosened it.

But I have no direct experience with your situation, so these are just general comments.

Cheers, Wayne

 

[Tuttles Revenge]

Interesting idea about it maybe being a copper pipe / sweat into the angle stop.

A couple of thoughts that might help determine if it is.

Does a sweat inlet typically have notches on the end for a wrench? Mine has the notches for a wrench.

The OD I measured is .95 in. this is the measurement of the sleeve.

The OD of a 1/2 copper pipe is .625. so the difference is .325 which would mean that the thickness of the sleeve would be half of .325, which is .1625, this is more than an 1/8 which seems very thick for a sleeve?

Assuming it is threaded how do I hold or support the nipple when I go to twist the angle stop off?

Thanks

We don't see these types of stops often, but of the stops that I've seen that are soldered on, they don't have any shoulder for a wrench. It seems very plausible that this is 3/8" threaded with a chromed sleeve over the exposed threads. We see that a lot with 1" and 3/4" flushometer valves on toilets and urinals.

Oddly I have a 3/8 chromed nipple on my desk. It measures roughly 11/16ths