Increase pressure in gravity fed system

[rscohen]

I'm building and plumbing a cabin on my property in Western North Carolina. It's spring fed. The spring puts out about 1 gallon per minute, and I have a 600 gallon underground cistern by the spring, about 1000 feet horizontal and 100 feet vertical from the cabin, through a 1" pipe.

Even though the pressure is okay at about 40 psi, I would like to raise it to 60 or 70. I'm familiar with the possibility of using an inline pressure booster pump like the Grundfos Scala 2 or the Dab Esy Box Mini 3.

But I'm wondering if there's some other way to go about boosting pressure? Is there away to use a more conventional pressure tank, like the sort used with well pumps?

 

[Valveman]

I'm building and plumbing a cabin on my property in Western North Carolina. It's spring fed. The spring puts out about 1 gallon per minute, and I have a 600 gallon underground cistern by the spring, about 1000 feet horizontal and 100 feet vertical from the cabin, through a 1" pipe.

Even though the pressure is okay at about 40 psi, I would like to raise it to 60 or 70. I'm familiar with the possibility of using an inline pressure booster pump like the Grundfos Scala 2 or the Dab Esy Box Mini 3.

But I'm wondering if there's some other way to go about boosting pressure? Is there away to use a more conventional pressure tank, like the sort used with well pumps?

You found those two pumps so easily because they spend the most on advertising. That means those are not the pumps you need, unless you just want to give the pump manufactures several times more money over the years than need be. That is how they pay for all that expensive advertising you found so easily. The old pressure tank/pressure switch controlling a regular shallow well jet pump for a booster is still the least expensive, most reliable, and longest lasting pump system you can get. The ONLY problems these type systems had was caused by cycling the pump on and off repeatedly. For over 30 years so far, simply adding a Cycle Stop Valve to a pressure tank/pressure switch controlled system has been solving those problems caused by cycling, and has made many thousands of pumps last several times longer than "planned" by the manufacturers. The Cycle Stop Valve solves those problems so well, makes pumps last so long, works with much smaller pressure tanks, and delivers such strong constant pressure that pump manufacturers labeled them a "disruptive" product back in the early 90's. Since that time they have pushed (advertised heavily) those variable speed type pumps as an alternative to the CSV, which they are if you sell pumps. You can purchase a new variable speed pump or controller for a couple thousand bucks every three years or so, and be out of water each time until you get it fixed. Or, you can spend about a thousand bucks on a regular shallow well jet pump and a PK1A kit to control it. Then you would have something that not only will last 30-40 years, but also will not leave you out of water a half dozen of the worst possible times over those years.

https://cyclestopvalves.com/pages/pk1a-pside-kick

https://www.supplyhouse.com/Grundfos-99463940-JP-PS-16-07-177-1-Stage-Shallow-Well-Jet-Pump-Stainless-Steel-115-230V-3-4-1-5-HP?utm_source=google_ad&utm_medium=Shopping_ntm&utm_campaign=Shopping_NTM_New_users&gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAjw5Ky1BhAgEiwA5jGujgOi5aS8PZvqxGVeFUnvP1daNYNR-AWBM936kbJ9nGHyhmt5X5_eXBoC7Z0QAvD_BwE

 

[Sponsor]

 

[Bannerman]

wondering if there's some other way to go about boosting pressure? Is there away to use a more conventional pressure tank, like the sort used with well pumps?

Despite the name, a 'pressure tank' will not produce or boost pressure, but will only store pressure produced by a pump.

To increase your system's supply pressure to 60 - 70 psi, either your cistern (600 gallon tank) will need to be elevated to between ~140' (60 psi) and ~163' (70 psi) above your home or, a pump will be required.

A pressure tank is utilized with a pump, to reduce the frequency of the pump cycling ON & OFF, particularly any time less water flow is utilized compared to the pump's flow rate capacity.

 

[rscohen]

Thanks for the help. Would I install that pump before or after the sediment filter. My water is wonderfully clean and pure -- no chemicals, minerals, etc. But naturally I keep a 5 micron filter on it. Would that filter be installed after the pump (which would make sense because silty water could harm the pump), or before the pump (so the water moving through the filter is properly pressurized)?

 

[Blue Oaks]

As someone who ditched his pump and pressure tank for a gravity feed system that puts out about 35 PSI, I have to ask why do you think getting more than 40 is worth the hassles of the new system? I'd change that 1" pipe to 2" and have the ability to fight a fire, and irrigate large areas before even thinking about a pump.

 

[Valveman]

I agree. 40 PSI, especially for free should be good pressure. I also think larger pipe could be the answer. But when you can't get larger pipe, increasing the pressure with a booster is the next best option. Keeping the sediment out of the pump by putting the filter on the suction side is probably best with with 40 PSI to work with.