I'm at my wits end with this corrugated copper pipe. How to stop this leak?

[Kreemoweet]

No ones's mentioned yet the possibility that the male adapter has a leak in its threads . . . this could happen if the copper
was not quite thick enough to support the depth of the threads cut/formed in it, somewhere in that threaded area. It seems we're running out of options here . . .

 

[SonOfGloin]

10 wraps of teflon and a moderate tightness - pinhole leak is still there, but very slow. The universe is allowing me a shower, or at least in an hour or so.

I'm going to take this opportunity to do hot water things that have been put off (e.g. laundry, dishes). This buys me some time to settle on a proper solution.

What do you all think is best? Go with the brass bushing combo? Or sweat a new MIP adapter in place? If the latter, then does this part exist in a higher quality version that you can recommend?

 

[Sponsor]

 

[John Gayewski]

Sure seems to be compressing nicely against the washer:

View attachment 91202

The copper also doesn't have any deep scratches.

I'd be surprised if the male adapter doesn't have enough threads to adequately compress the washer. The other line is attached to the same adapter, and it sealed perfectly on the first shot (hand tight, plus moderate wrench turn). This non-leaking joint isn't threaded as far as I've been able to go with the bad one.

I'll try the two washer method again.

Also, for what it's worth, I got it down to a pinhole leak with 8 wraps of teflon

The washer in this picture is ruined. They get ruined by over tightening. I would say replace it, but sometimes replacement washers don't fit as well.

 

[Fitter30]

Look at the threads in the brass nut their finer than the mpt and there not tapered. The fitting is made to seal at he end not the threads. A mpt adapter end isn't a machine surface.

 

[Tuttles Revenge]

It was mentioned that the threads on the water heater, which are pipe nipples didn't leak. I would be inclined at this point to install female adapers and a short nipple to thread the flexes to.. Or they make flexes that solder on one end and threads on the other (I don't like those personally...)

 

[Reach4]

1. Does that washer have a round cross section? Maybe go to your local big hardware store, and see what washer they would have and try one of those.
2. When you lift the washer out, is the place the washer seats against, on the flex line, damaged?

 

[WorthFlorida]

SonOfGloin, where are you with this? I would ditch everything since all the threads are deformed.

Brass to brass tape or pipe dope is generally not needed. Brass to anything else tape or pipe dope is needed. Use no more than a pea size dope of pipe dope and not on the threaded ends. When there is a tiny leak, like a weep that might drip a little, let it sit for a day or two and keep a rag around the pipe. The little weeps will usually self seal from the minerals in the water. When using a flex pipe tighten to a snug fit. When it feels like it bottomed out at the washer, give it a 1/4 turn. if it weeps some, give it a little more. Just came across an article on FB by a house inspection outfit. Number one plumbing error, over tightening fittings.

In your case change to push and fit or Sharkbite fittings. They have a 3/4 male threaded end of for the water heater, the other end a press and fit. At the copper pipe, a regular press and fit coupling. For pipe use copper or CPVC. Millions of homes use CPVC and nothing wrong with it. Are you adding an expansion tank? The first picture is my home, the second at my church, third at my son;s house. All three done in three month period.

 

[wwhitney]

Brass to brass tape or pipe dope is generally not needed.

Huh? Any tapered threaded joint that is intended to seal requires teflon tape or pipe dope, because of the possible spiral leakage path. While you may have success simply tightening them enough to deform the brass to seal, that is not the intention, as I understand it.

The IPC calls out "Pipe-joint compound or tape shall be applied on the male threads only." This is in the section on "copper alloy tube" joints, which I understand would cover brass.

Chapter 6: Water Supply and Distribution, 2020 FBC - Plumbing, 7^th edition | UpCodes

UpCodes offers a consolidated resource of construction and building code grouped by jurisdiction

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Apparently people who like to use tape on the male threads and dope on the female threads are violating the IPC. : - ) But I guess you could put tape on the male threads and dope over that, if that's the way you like it.

Cheers, Wayne

 

[Eman85]

@WorthFlorida I see you're not brand loyal. Which of those heaters if any did you think were better than the other? I see you connected CPVC direct to the heater, I thought it needed metallic lines. On the one it looks like you have the valve that mixes hot/cold and you turn the water temp up, how is that working?

 

[Fitter30]

Cash Acme tank booster pro mixing valve

https://www.supplyhouse.com/Cash-Acme-24644-Tank-Booster-Pro-w-Braided-Hose-Temperature-Gauge

 

[Jeff H Young]

sometimes I give up solving a mystyery and just replace it