heat trap nipple and possible rust.

[I am sweating here]

Happy holidays everyone,
I was just in the process of replacing the hot water heater connector. rubber has deteriorated and ended up in our faucet for the second time in many years. as it was removed it appears as though the plastic Heat nipple trap was damaged. furthermore there is some rust on the threads. this is a 12-year-old water heater electric Bradford White. I have never placed the anode rod. This is city water

timing is fantastic given Christmas.

with the damage heat trap nipple, what is the recommended course of action? seeing that there is a bit of rustUnder the threads and Teflon tape. can the nipple be replaced? is the tank pooched?
thanks everyone

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[I am sweating here]

Do I need the heat brought nipple to get a good ceiling surface? of the heat right nipple absolutely required?

 

[Sponsor]

 

[Reach4]

The heat trap is intended to save some energy.

For your connector lines, do not use the lines with a stainless steel woven braid. Instead go for corrugated copper or stainless steel.

 

[I am sweating here]

The heat trap is intended to save some energy.

For your connector lines, do not use the lines with a stainless steel woven braid. Instead go for corrugated copper or stainless steel.

I have a corrugated stainless steel this time. Never going back to braided. are you saying that the water Heater lines can be installed without the trap? if so is that a bad idea?

 

[Reach4]

Bad? Matter of opinion. WHs for years did not have heat traps. So how much heat is saved/wasted? I do not know. Waste in the winter is not a big deal. In the summer it fights the AC. So will you use an extra $1 of gas or $10 of total energy per year? I am not going to try to search that out.

You could buy new heat trap nipples, but could you get the old ones out? Put in a 5/8 carriage bolt to prevent crushing, and then use a good pipe wrench. I have never done it. A big curved locking pliers might do it too. I tend to do better with those than pipe wrenches.

Vs going without hot water for a while, re-using the same nipple with no heat trap is a great idea IMO. I am not a plumber.

 

[Fitter30]

If there is room just use a galvanized or brass coupling and add a new heat trap nipple then your not fighting trying to get the nipple out. Or a piping change.

More heat trap questions

My question is very similar to the one asked 6 years ago. I also have a Rheems 40 gallon gas WH (22V50F1), whose supply lines I'm replacing and relocating to another wall. The guy who put in the unit originally installed a U-shaped heat trap on each line, apparently following the manual, which...

terrylove.com

 

[I am sweating here]

Bad? Matter of opinion. WHs for years did not have heat traps. So how much heat is saved/wasted? I do not know. Waste in the winter is not a big deal. In the summer it fights the AC. So will you use an extra $1 of gas or $10 of total energy per year? I am not going to try to search that out.

You could buy new heat trap nipples, but could you get the old ones out? Put in a 5/8 carriage bolt to prevent crushing, and then use a good pipe wrench. I have never done it. A big curved locking pliers might do it too. I tend to do better with those than pipe wrenches.

Vs going without hot water for a while, re-using the same nipple with no heat trap is a great idea IMO. I am not a plumber.

i think the old one is out. the cold is mostly disintegrated, and the hot one is completely gone.The rubber is completely gone on both. I can see tiny bits of it on top of the Bradford white hot anode in picture 8026. you can see the cold one is almost completely disintegrated and picture 8036. If there is room just use a galvanized or brass coupling and add a new heat trap nipple then your not fighting trying to get the nipple out. Or a piping change. my biggest concern

More heat trap questions

My question is very similar to the one asked 6 years ago. I also have a Rheems 40 gallon gas WH (22V50F1), whose supply lines I'm replacing and relocating to another wall. The guy who put in the unit originally installed a U-shaped heat trap on each line, apparently following the manual, which...

terrylove.com

this is a great idea about my concern is that I won't get a good sealing surface from the slight rust under the coupling and the very top of the currently shown galvanized nipple in picture 8037.