I am a rank newb so be gentle.
Have a new 30x60 shop with new 200a service - out in the country and away from all the city limits red tape. I did all the exterior and interior connections to the inside breaker box and have wired a 110 and a 50a 220 welder plug just for convenience. The local electric co-op inspected my work before they would connect their service, so I must have passed the first test.
I have not done the permanent interior wiring yet but I'm starting with lights. I have a nice pile of 20 t8 3-bulb fluorescent fixtures I bought off craigslist. I want to wire 4-8 lights per switch so I can turn on the part of the shop I'm working in. If I want all lights on, i'll have to turn on multiple switches. Bulbs draw 27 watts each. if my math is correct (and the fact that I'm asking should cause you to question it), I can fit all the lights on a 15A breaker with about 10% to spare or move up to a 20a with room to add. (a=w/pf x v or 27x3x20/1x120)
Question #1 - I want to be sure my wire gauge planning is correct. Because of the distances, I'm thinking 14/3 romex. If I've not already done so, this is going to show my ignorance: as I get nearer the switch, does the wire gauge need to get heavier (eg is the amp draw downstream additive) or do I use the same wire and watch the distances? Same question between switches and to the breaker box.
Question #2 - assuming I wire all switches back to one breaker, what kind of switch would you recommend? Should I be looking for beefier specs than a standard light switch?
Question #3 - all of this wiring is 13' in the air and running the roof trusses with the exception of the part running down the wall to the switch and over to the breaker box. if I have to do conduit, I'd rather do PVC just for the weight and ease of install. If I don't have to do conduit, I'd rather buy tools than spend money on it. Thoughts?
I really appreciate the help. I'm a car guy. Screwing up 12v is a pretty safe mistake. I'm a little out of my element on this but having fun learning.
Have a new 30x60 shop with new 200a service - out in the country and away from all the city limits red tape. I did all the exterior and interior connections to the inside breaker box and have wired a 110 and a 50a 220 welder plug just for convenience. The local electric co-op inspected my work before they would connect their service, so I must have passed the first test.
I have not done the permanent interior wiring yet but I'm starting with lights. I have a nice pile of 20 t8 3-bulb fluorescent fixtures I bought off craigslist. I want to wire 4-8 lights per switch so I can turn on the part of the shop I'm working in. If I want all lights on, i'll have to turn on multiple switches. Bulbs draw 27 watts each. if my math is correct (and the fact that I'm asking should cause you to question it), I can fit all the lights on a 15A breaker with about 10% to spare or move up to a 20a with room to add. (a=w/pf x v or 27x3x20/1x120)
Question #1 - I want to be sure my wire gauge planning is correct. Because of the distances, I'm thinking 14/3 romex. If I've not already done so, this is going to show my ignorance: as I get nearer the switch, does the wire gauge need to get heavier (eg is the amp draw downstream additive) or do I use the same wire and watch the distances? Same question between switches and to the breaker box.
Question #2 - assuming I wire all switches back to one breaker, what kind of switch would you recommend? Should I be looking for beefier specs than a standard light switch?
Question #3 - all of this wiring is 13' in the air and running the roof trusses with the exception of the part running down the wall to the switch and over to the breaker box. if I have to do conduit, I'd rather do PVC just for the weight and ease of install. If I don't have to do conduit, I'd rather buy tools than spend money on it. Thoughts?
I really appreciate the help. I'm a car guy. Screwing up 12v is a pretty safe mistake. I'm a little out of my element on this but having fun learning.