Fleck 5600sxt 64k install questions

[Akrio]

Hi,

Installed my first softener (5600sxt 64,000 grain) recently and trying to get a good understanding of the regeneration process and the settings on the unit.

I followed a guide from A plus water online and installed the control valve without the upper basket. I've seen some information online that missing this piece could lead to loss of resin during the backwash process. Should I be concerned that this wasn't installed? When I first set up the unit and ran the manual regeneration process I saw some discoloration in the drain line for a few seconds, wondering if this was normal or not. I still have the upper basket and can install it if so.

Should the brine well cover at the bottom be on or off? Does it matter?

I filled the brine tank with my regular hard water for the first regeneration process, was this okay?

Where should I keep the salt and water levels at in the brine tank? I have a 15x17x36 brine tank, I added a 40lb bag of salt with 3-4 gallons of water and the water level is about half way full in the brine tank after the first regeneration process.

I'm also looking into the settings for the regeneration process. A plus recommended I set the capacity to 64 and the brine fill to 13. My BLFC is 0.5gpm. The consensus I've got reading here is that it's inefficient.

I've seen Reach recommend these:
lb/cuft ; C= ; BF=
5.250 ; 37.2 ; 7
6.000 ; 40.0 ; 8
6.750 ; 43.1 ; 9
7.500 ; 46.1 ; 10
8.250 ; 48.9 ; 11
9.000 ; 51.3 ; 12
9.750 ; 53.4 ; 13

I'm planning on going with either 7.500 or 8.250. Is the main idea behind reducing the capacity and brine fill to regenerate more often at higher efficiency? It will also leave the softener with more capacity when nearing the end of its service cycle to reduce hardness leakage (or better performance)? Why is there a drop off with the salt efficiency to regenerate more grains?

I'm assuming I can run into problems if my hardness setting is off from what it actually is... causing the regeneration process to happen either too early or too late. If it's happening too late each time, overtime would I fall behind regenerating the resin inside the tank, lowering the available capacity each time? If it's happening too early, I'd just be inefficient?

I plan on grabbing the Hach-5B kit to confirm my water hardness. My town reports 14-18 grains/gal. I've set mine to 18 for now.

Assuming I test it at 18, should I aim a little higher to compensate?

 

[ditttohead]

Why would anyone tell you to not install a diffuser? The top screen has a couple of primary functions. First and foremost is to diffuse the water so the water is forced to flow though a varied path rather than a direct path. We find this to be particularly important on larger valves, but regardless, it needs to be installed. Secondly, it prevent media from getting into the valve head during transport should the system be placed on its side. Lastly, it can prevent media loss during backwash especially if your water is unusually cold, denser water can raise the media higher into the tank. Discoloration with a new system is normal.
Brine well cover on bottom typically does not matter
Hard water refill for brine tank is fine.
Keep the salt full, the water is self regulating
64K, they recommended setting your unit to 64K... sigh, so sad. As I have said many times befroe, purchasing from the lowest bidder online should be avoided... set you system to 48,000, brine fill 11 minutes.
Set hardness to 20 for now. Don't make it too complex.

 

[Sponsor]

 

[Akrio]

Why would anyone tell you to not install a diffuser? The top screen has a couple of primary functions. First and foremost is to diffuse the water so the water is forced to flow though a varied path rather than a direct path. We find this to be particularly important on larger valves, but regardless, it needs to be installed. Secondly, it prevent media from getting into the valve head during transport should the system be placed on its side. Lastly, it can prevent media loss during backwash especially if your water is unusually cold, denser water can raise the media higher into the tank. Discoloration with a new system is normal.
Brine well cover on bottom typically does not matter
Hard water refill for brine tank is fine.
Keep the salt full, the water is self regulating
64K, they recommended setting your unit to 64K... sigh, so sad. As I have said many times befroe, purchasing from the lowest bidder online should be avoided... set you system to 48,000, brine fill 11 minutes.
Set hardness to 20 for now. Don't make it too complex.

Thanks so much for answering everything! Much appreciated. I'm not sure why they recommended to not install it. For the brine line they also recommended to not have the small screen there. Not sure if that is a big or not.

I'll try and get the upper basket/diffuser on the control valve as soon as possible. Should I be alright going a week or two without it there?

 

[ditttohead]

You should be fine. As to the small screen in the brine tube, I agree, that screen causes more problems than it prevents. I have installed thousands of the 5600 valves in commercial applications, we always threw the screen in the trash. When they were installed, they would tend to get fouled up and prevent brine draw.

 

[Akrio]

You should be fine. As to the small screen in the brine tube, I agree, that screen causes more problems than it prevents. I have installed thousands of the 5600 valves in commercial applications, we always threw the screen in the trash. When they were installed, they would tend to get fouled up and prevent brine draw.

Thanks. I'll make sure I get that upper basket installed this weekend or so and will reprogram the settings you suggested. Appreciate all the help and tips.

 

[Akrio]

Have a few more questions/curiosities. My injector is 2 and DLFC shows 3.5gpm written on it, would this influence the recommended settings?

After the first install/regen I noticed a bit of a salty taste. I applied the recommended settings from here and regenerated again and noticed it’s gone. I could be wrong but the water doesn’t feel as slick as it did before regenerating the second time. I can’t tell yet but I have a Hach 5-B kit coming to confirm everything is all set.

 

[Reach4]

Have a few more questions/curiosities. My injector is 2 and DLFC shows 3.5gpm written on it, would this influence the recommended settings?

After the first install/regen I noticed a bit of a salty taste. I applied the recommended settings from here and regenerated again and noticed it’s gone. I could be wrong but the water doesn’t feel as slick as it did before regenerating the second time. I can’t tell yet but I have a Hach 5-B kit coming to confirm everything is all set.

It's the right DLFC. I would have preferred a #1 or even #0 injector, but BD=60 should have rinsed the brine away no problem. Even if you started with a more brine than normal, I would think. With your #2 blue injector, I think your brine will be drawn to the middle of the air check valve in about 9.3 minutes. With a #0 injector, BD=90 should be good. BD=60 works with #1 or #2, but you could go to maybe BD=37 with the #2.

Right after regen, and if the new water in the pipes have cleared out the older water, you should probably get blue solution with zero drops on the Hach 5-B.

 

[Akrio]

It's the right DLFC. I would have preferred a #1 or even #0 injector, but BD=60 should have rinsed the brine away no problem. Even if you started with a more brine than normal, I would think. With your #2 blue injector, I think your brine will be drawn to the middle of the air check valve in about 9.3 minutes. With a #0 injector, BD=90 should be good. BD=60 works with #1 or #2, but you could go to maybe BD=37 with the #2.

Right after regen, and if the new water in the pipes have cleared out the older water, you should probably get blue solution with zero drops on the Hach 5-B.

Thanks! Does the larger injector just get the brine into the resin tank faster? I'm guessing that's why I could do BD=37? In theory I'd get the same function more or less with it at 37 due to the size of the injector and just save time? I don't mind leaving it at 60 though since it regenerates at 2/3AM.

I used my Hach 5-B test kit today and it seems like everything is going well. I saved a bottle of water from 2 weeks ago before I installed (not sure if that is ideal but don't feel like turning the hard water back on into the house). 13 drops took it almost fully blue, after 20-30 seconds I saw a hint of pink and by 15 drops it stayed blue. On the cold water it was blue right away. Hot water initially it was pink/blue mix with 1 drop making it blue. The hot may take a little longer to be blue right away? It's been about 1.5-2 weeks since I installed it.

 

[Reach4]

Does the larger injector just get the brine into the resin tank faster?

Both in and out faster.

I used my Hach 5-B test kit today and it seems like everything is going well. I saved a bottle of water from 2 weeks ago before I installed (not sure if that is ideal but don't feel like turning the hard water back on into the house).

You should be able to get hard water from the outside hose spigot.

13 drops took it almost fully blue, after 20-30 seconds I saw a hint of pink and by 15 drops it stayed blue. On the cold water it was blue right away. Hot water initially it was pink/blue mix with 1 drop making it blue. The hot may take a little longer to be blue right away?

Two things with the hot: there is the fact that it stores old water, but it also will probably have hardness material in the tank that will come slowly into solution for quite a while.