Ejector pump switch failure, lid rotted

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bentz69

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The ejector pump for my basement bathroom wasn't pumping. Thankfully this bathroom never gets used but every month or so I run the sink water through pump just to make sure I hear it working. Well today it wasn't moving water. The pump itself works when plugged directly into the outlet but when plugged into the switch plug, the pump will not turn on. So either the switch is faulty or the maybe the buoy is stuck, not sure just yet.

When I started to remove the coupler from the vent pipe, the base snapped off from the bolts and the lid is essentially rotted. At this point I stopped and I'm trying to figure my options.

First, I have no idea how old the pump is. House was built in 1987 and I bought 6 years ago. Pump could be from '87 for all I know but still works. I have no idea what material the the basin and lid are made of. If the lid is rotted like you can see in the pics, can I assume the basin will do the same? Im thinking once I remove the lid the whole unit is compromised and wont seal correctly.

Does this look like a complete overhaul and replacement of everything is needed? Any chance a new lid would be compatible and perhaps install a new switch? I suppose I really need to take the whole lid off to see what Im working with but Im just throwing it out there.

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If a new basin and pump is needed, any recommendations for good quality parts. Buy once, cry once
 

Breplum

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There is a very low, but, chance odds the basin is plastic with brass inserts for the screws. If so, you have a chance to get a lid made.
Maybe Meyers from that era. Terrible steel lid with those compression cast iron adapters...I do not think Meyers makes basins any longer. I always use Liberty duplex systems and recommend with confidence. Liberty poly basins are now the standard.
 

Jeff H Young

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custum pump lids can be ordered or you can buy one that might fit perhaps modify slightly . If Pit is still sound but bolt holes are unusable I suppose you could put 4 studs in the concrete and clamp a Lid down . If it was My own home I would avoid changing the entire pit. I havent seen as much as Breplum all the ejector pits I worked with were non metalic .
 

bentz69

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Im going to remove the lid the tomorrow and see what Im working with. Ill report back
 

bentz69

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Perhaps not as a terrible as expected. The lid was completely rotted. The tank itself appears to be in decent shape but I am no expert. I left it full with water overnight and its not leaking. I believe its made of fiberglass but not sure. When I applied pressure to the base of the tank with a pole it felt like it had a bubble in it (if that makes sense). Maybe its becoming brittle also?

When I put the float in the fully upright and upside position the pump turns on. However, I had the tank full with water before removing the pump and it would not activate. Maybe it was stuck?

The diameter of the lid is 20.75" and the inner diameter of the tank is 17.75". There are 4 bolt holes but there are no threads. Maybe this lid?

So the pump works and the float works now but easy enough to replace since maybe its worn. Not sure of the pump age either. Clearly need a new lid.

As far as the float is concerned, why would it have been placed in a position that always leaves a minimum of 10-14" of liquids in the tank? What is optimal non-activated height?
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Jeff H Young

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looks good . meaasurement on cover sounds sounds close enough . just gotta figure out how you want to bolt it down.
I thought you said the pump runs but wont move water
 

Reach4

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The old lid was held down by gravity -- no screws? If gravity before, then I expect gravity again.

If doing that with that Everbuilt basin cover you will have a 1/8 inch gap around. I am thinking that you would use putty, and the putty would expand into the gap after you step on the cover for a bit. The putty, formed into a rope by you, would also expand into the screw holes also I think. I am not a pro.
b8a3630e-aadb-556b-b3b1-e383705546f6
 

bentz69

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looks good . meaasurement on cover sounds sounds close enough . just gotta figure out how you want to bolt it down.
I thought you said the pump runs but wont move water

The 4 existing holes on the tank have no threads. When the old lid came off the bolts were rusted and whatever type of threaded female adapter came out with the lid. Its just literally a hole and there is no concrete under the lip. Its just dirt. Im thinking maybe self taping screws through a new lid right through the lip with new holes.
 

bentz69

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The old lid was held down by gravity -- no screws? If gravity before, then I expect gravity again.

If doing that with that Everbuilt basin cover you will have a 1/8 inch gap around. I am thinking that you would use putty, and the putty would expand into the gap after you step on the cover for a bit. The putty, formed into a rope by you, would also expand into the screw holes also I think. I am not a pro.
b8a3630e-aadb-556b-b3b1-e383705546f6

I bought this exact lid last night and it doesnt fit. The lip on the bottom of this cover has 18" diameter and the inside tank diameter is 17.75". It wont sit flush. I found a few Jackel lids that measure 17.75" so Im going to try that.


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Breplum

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If you leave the pump cord much longer, it may hang up on the side of the basin.
Maybe you can tap the existing tank holes and then use stainless steel bolts with washers, seal it with silicone caulk for odor.
 
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