Draining for a Washing Machine Pan?

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Patrick R Wunsch

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Does anyone know the appropriate way to drain a washing machine pan, particularly in a cold climate?

I've seen conflicting info when researching this issue. Some recommend draining direct to the outside. Some say tie into existing DWV. Others say no p-trap needed.

My scenario is its a 2nd floor washing machine above finished living space. I live in a cold climate so I'm not a fan of running a drain to the outside. I don't have a laundry tub or anything to drain into. On its face, it appears tying into the existing DWV is my only option which I'd have to believe would require a p-trap but wouldn't the water in the trap eventually dry out?I'm looking for thoughts, ideas or any suggestions. Thanks!
 

Jeff H Young

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Warm weather guy here. You could tie it into a wye branch tailpiece under a lav.
Perhaps going through the trouble of being forced to lower the santee and actually using a 1 1/2 wye under the sink rather than a small wye branch as used for condensate or dishwasher.
another way is the overflow portion on the bath tub you could install a wye to accept the drainage .
these would have traps that wont go dry
sorry but it might mean opening walls or perhaps my suggestion makes you think of another handy location, good luck!
 
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Patrick R Wunsch

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Warm weather guy here. You could tie it into a wye branch tailpiece under a lav.
Perhaps going through the trouble of being forced to lower the santee and actually using a 1 1/2 wye under the sink rather than a small wye branch as used for condensate or dishwasher.
another way is the overflow portion on the bath tub you could install a wye to accept the drainage .
these would have traps that wont go dry
sorry but it might mean opening walls or perhaps my suggestion makes you think of another handy location, good luck!
Thanks Jeff. I should've mentioned but I have no plumbing fixtures anywhere below this pan. There's a nearby main 2" horizontal run. There are also p-traps on a nearby shower and toilet. Except for these 2 p-traps, the 2" main drain run and down the line, the main stack, I have no fixtures or drains below the washing machine pan.
 
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Jeff H Young

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well if your tailpiece at shower is long enough you can tie in there.
if you add a trap somewhere you need to think about keeping the trap primed and venting it
 

Tuttles Revenge

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I've installed clothes washer pans that were hooked up with a 2" trap just like a shower... But I think another option would be just the same suggestion as Jeff, but to hook up the drain to the 2" tail piece of the shower.
 

Patrick R Wunsch

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I've installed clothes washer pans that were hooked up with a 2" trap just like a shower... But I think another option would be just the same suggestion as Jeff, but to hook up the drain to the 2" tail piece of the shower.
I understand what you're saying but the two nearby traps are already tight within an 8" joist so there's really not much of a tailpiece to connect to. I could certainly put a trap under the pan and hook into a wye entering the main 2" horizontal drain but I'd worry the pan wouldn't get much use and eventually the trap would dry up and begin letting sewer gases in. Or maybe I could run it outside and have some sort of check valve near the exit which would help cold air from r tering the house. Thoughts?
 

Tuttles Revenge

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If you were able to trap it separately, they make a trap primer that spits a tiny bit of water into a drain every time water pressure changes in your plumbing system. Or a flapper valve that lets water pass but not sewer gasses (if its code approved for your jurisdiction)

1663021820052.png
 

Patrick R Wunsch

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If you were able to trap it separately, they make a trap primer that spits a tiny bit of water into a drain every time water pressure changes in your plumbing system. Or a flapper valve that lets water pass but not sewer gasses (if its code approved for your jurisdiction)

View attachment 86294
Thoughts on a dedicated line straight to the drain with no trap but using the SureSeal fitting you just described?
 

Tuttles Revenge

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Less optimal. I think the trap seal is intended to be a secondary protection that will likely let a Small amount of gas through.
 

Jeff H Young

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Thoughts on a dedicated line straight to the drain with no trap but using the SureSeal fitting you just described?
Still need a vent or AAV I think the sure seal needs accessibility I've never used one though I've installed many trap primers
 

Aaloo

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If you're having trouble draining your washing machine, there are a few things you can do. First off, lay down towels and a storage container to catch the water. Then locate the drain. For front-loaders, it's usually at the front. For top-loaders, it's usually at the back. To remove the drain pump and drain it carefully into your storage container until the water stops flowing. Remove any clogs and clean the pump if necessary. If drain issue still not resolved better contact a technician to fix washers drain.
 

Jeff H Young

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If you're having trouble draining your washing machine, there are a few things you can do. First off, lay down towels and a storage container to catch the water. Then locate the drain. For front-loaders, it's usually at the front. For top-loaders, it's usually at the back. To remove the drain pump and drain it carefully into your storage container until the water stops flowing. Remove any clogs and clean the pump if necessary. If drain issue still not resolved better contact a technician to fix washers drain.
Its an emergency drain pan for a washing machine not a broken wash machine, or a stoppage
 

Terry

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Running is outside. It will never drain unless you have a leak from the washer, and that's going to be obvious anyway. The pipe to the outside will be dry the rest of the time.
Tying into the DWV is difficult to prevent sewer gases from using the drain to enter the home.
 

WorthFlorida

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Jeff H Young

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True you can just use it as a catch pan with no drain. or not have a pan at all . Im assuming he wants a pan with a drain . we generaly run the drain out side here
 

John Gayewski

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Running is outside. It will never drain unless you have a leak from the washer, and that's going to be obvious anyway. The pipe to the outside will be dry the rest of the time.
Tying into the DWV is difficult to prevent sewer gases from using the drain to enter the home.
This is the way. It's an emergency drain that will most likley never be used. If the emergency occurs (which it won't) there's almost no way it could freeze during the emergency.
 
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