TL;DR: Would you prefer a compression connection or a good (i.e. John Guest) push-fit connection specifically for 1/4" or 3/8" plastic/poly tubing (not copper) for long-term reliability against a sudden blow out?
Long Version:
I installed a water filter under my kitchen sink a few years ago. The filter housing uses push-fit connectors to accept the poly tubing that comes in from the water supply and out to the faucet. The faucet's hot water supply line is also a stiff plastic/poly type tubing that was connected (by me) to the hot water shutoff valve using a compression connection. I also have a tee off the post-filter cold water tubing to go to the faucet cold and an instant-hot water tank, the connections of which were made with compression fittings on the plastic tubing to the brass tee. Most of these connections have been in use more than a year with no leaks or other problems.
But recently I also installed a water filter under a cabinet near the fridge to supply both the fridge and a coffee maker, and ended up using push-fit connectors (the filter housing used them as well) on the 1/4" poly line to feed the filter and then tee off the filter's output for each device's supply. I also added a push-fit shutoff valve inline for the coffee-maker filler.
I've always been somewhat nervous about compression fittings on plastic tubing, even with the insert properly in place and using a plastic ferrule. And while I've used SharkBite connectors in a couple of places in my garage on CPVC where they're out in the open and easy to watch, I'm hesitant to use them on a full 1/2" supply pipe inside the house. Although, as mentioned above, I do have a few push-fit connectors on smaller plastic supply lines in the house, so I guess I'm a bit of a hypocrite.
To be fair, though, I also have water sensors near those connections and under all my sinks and toilet supplies with an auto-shutoff valve on the house's main water line.
Anyway, I'm curious what everyone's opinions are regarding the use of compression fittings on plastic/poly tubing (with insert and plastic ferrule of course) vs. a "good" push-fit connector (i.e. John Guest) for long-term reliability and lowest risk of sudden disconnect. All of these tubes/connections will have some level of motion over time as the valves on the fridge or shutting off the sink faucet are quick actions and do result in some vibration of the tubes and their connections (although in my case, I've tried to "mount/clamp" the tubing to the wall or inside the cabinet wherever possible to minimize movement).
Which of these two types of connections would you feel more confident in their ability, over the long haul, to not abruptly fail and blowout (assuming proper installation)? I not as worried about finding a slow drip leak that I notice days later (I tend to check these areas fairly frequently) as the collateral damage will usually be minimal, but the damage from a sudden blowout is harder to remediate, especially if you're not there to see it for hours after it occurs. Just curious about opinions of one vs. the other type of connection, specifically when it comes to use on plastic/poly tubing, not copper.
Thanks!
Long Version:
I installed a water filter under my kitchen sink a few years ago. The filter housing uses push-fit connectors to accept the poly tubing that comes in from the water supply and out to the faucet. The faucet's hot water supply line is also a stiff plastic/poly type tubing that was connected (by me) to the hot water shutoff valve using a compression connection. I also have a tee off the post-filter cold water tubing to go to the faucet cold and an instant-hot water tank, the connections of which were made with compression fittings on the plastic tubing to the brass tee. Most of these connections have been in use more than a year with no leaks or other problems.
But recently I also installed a water filter under a cabinet near the fridge to supply both the fridge and a coffee maker, and ended up using push-fit connectors (the filter housing used them as well) on the 1/4" poly line to feed the filter and then tee off the filter's output for each device's supply. I also added a push-fit shutoff valve inline for the coffee-maker filler.
I've always been somewhat nervous about compression fittings on plastic tubing, even with the insert properly in place and using a plastic ferrule. And while I've used SharkBite connectors in a couple of places in my garage on CPVC where they're out in the open and easy to watch, I'm hesitant to use them on a full 1/2" supply pipe inside the house. Although, as mentioned above, I do have a few push-fit connectors on smaller plastic supply lines in the house, so I guess I'm a bit of a hypocrite.
To be fair, though, I also have water sensors near those connections and under all my sinks and toilet supplies with an auto-shutoff valve on the house's main water line.Anyway, I'm curious what everyone's opinions are regarding the use of compression fittings on plastic/poly tubing (with insert and plastic ferrule of course) vs. a "good" push-fit connector (i.e. John Guest) for long-term reliability and lowest risk of sudden disconnect. All of these tubes/connections will have some level of motion over time as the valves on the fridge or shutting off the sink faucet are quick actions and do result in some vibration of the tubes and their connections (although in my case, I've tried to "mount/clamp" the tubing to the wall or inside the cabinet wherever possible to minimize movement).
Which of these two types of connections would you feel more confident in their ability, over the long haul, to not abruptly fail and blowout (assuming proper installation)? I not as worried about finding a slow drip leak that I notice days later (I tend to check these areas fairly frequently) as the collateral damage will usually be minimal, but the damage from a sudden blowout is harder to remediate, especially if you're not there to see it for hours after it occurs.
Just curious about opinions of one vs. the other type of connection, specifically when it comes to use on plastic/poly tubing, not copper.Thanks!
