Compression Fitting for Tub Spout

[MFoster720]

I am installing a screw-on Moen Adler tub spout in a remodeled bathroom. When the plumber roughed in the tub spout stub out, I assume he was under the impression it would be for a slip-on spout. Unfortunately, that has left me needing to install a threaded connection for the tub spout.

My question is whether or not a compression fitting (union) would work for this situation? My concern would be spinning it off while twisting the spout on. I'm comfortable sweating fittings, but I'm nervous doing it this close to the tub surround.

Thanks for any insight!

LTWFITTING 5/8 in. O.D. Comp x 1/2 in. MIP Brass Compression Adapter Fitting (25-Pack) HF6810825 - The Home Depot

This LTWFITTING OD Comp MIP Brass Compression Adapter Fitting can be attached to underside of your sink without tools.

www.homedepot.com

 

[WorthFlorida]

.......My question is whether or not a compression fitting (union) would work for this situation? My concern would be spinning it off while twisting the spout on. I'm comfortable sweating fittings, but I'm nervous doing it this close to the tub surround.

When tightening, everything is right hand thread, therefore it will not spin off. You need to be sure that there is enough space inside the spout to accept the compression fitting. Usually the sweating of a fitting for a spout is after the finish wall is completed so the pipe can be cut to the correct length.

I'm not a plumber but this is how I would do it, others may reply for a better suggestion.
Depending on how far from the surround the fitting needs to be it can still be sweated on. You can stuff a wet rag round the cutout, maybe make it a little larger using a utility knife. Just do not over heat it where it can soften the sweat fitting behind the surround. Being at the end of the pipe, it will heat up much faster because of less pipe to draw away the heat. Also place wet towels or rags below to prevent any burn marks from hot solder hitting the acrylic tub.

 

[Sponsor]

 

[Jadnashua]

That compression fitting may work if there's enough room inside of the spout. The advantage of that type of fitting is if when tightening the spout you can't get it tight while pointing down and close to the shower wall, you can take it apart, loosen the compression fitting, move it slightly and try again. You do not want to overtighten the fitting, which can put a crimp into the pipe. I was disappointed in their installation instructions...they do not give a dimension for how far the end of the fitting should project from the wall.

A wet rag on the pipe should allow you to solder a threaded fitting, but take the precautions mentioned to avoid wet solder drips from damaging things.

Moen does not make the Adler tub spout in a slip-fit version, but they do make three that are which might make things easier for you...as long as the pipe isn't too long, you just slide it up against the wall and tighten the set screw. https://www.moen.com/search/slip+fit+tub+spout

 

[Aaloo]

When tightening, everything is right hand thread, therefore it will not spin off. You need to be sure that there is enough space inside the spout to accept the compression fitting. Usually the sweating of a fitting for a spout is after the finish wall is completed so the pipe can be cut to the correct length.

I'm not a plumber but this is how I would do it, others may reply for a better suggestion.
Depending on how far from the surround the fitting needs to be it can still be sweated on. You can stuff a wet rag round the cutout, maybe make it a little larger using a utility knife. Just do not over heat it where it can soften the sweat fitting behind the surround. Being at the end of the pipe, it will heat up much faster because of less pipe to draw away the heat. Also place wet towels or rags below to prevent any burn marks from hot solder hitting the acrylic tub.

Thats a nice DIY answer explaining what works well.