Brass drain in concrete for new tub (pics)

[Morawski]

I tore out our downstairs bathtub looking to see if I could take on the reno myself, as I wasn't sure what I was up against. Turns out it is a 1.5" brass waste pipe and set in concrete. Is this something typically quick to work with for a new tub assuming the drain will most likely need adjustment? If the height of drain elbow is off am I looking at breaking up the slab (then what?). If this is beyond most DIY I'm good but just want to understand as much as I can before I bring in some help.

Secondary question: I'm wondering if I should leave the existing copper/valve in place. Its a Moen 1225 from my research. Should I simply swap the cartridge out/clean the housing or should I start from scratch? I'm OK with having the older push/pull mechanism, asking more about reliability. House is '85 I think with this being an addon at some later date.

 

[Sylvan]

Replace the shower valve and call a pro who is licensed and insured to replace the tub waste and DO NOT allow the plumber to set it in cement . Use clean fill or protect the new water prior to filling the void in the concrete

Cement does eat ferrous and non ferrous metals

 

[Sponsor]

 

[Tuttles Revenge]

I agree that the drain needs to be dug up to expose the trap and a new waste and overflow be set and not poured in with concrete without proper expansion and contraction spacing if there is a need to fill the hole due to pests perhaps. Tubs are not the easiest fixtures to start as a DIY'r but are definitely in the realm of doable if you have the time and willingness to learn. Mostly if this is not your primary bathroom and you have the luxury to spend the time to do it correctly. I would replace the rough in valve now with a new pressure balance or thermostatic valve while you have it open. You have a LOT more options of modern trim styles so your bathroom won't be instantly "dated" by the limited number of trim available for that old Moen valve. Plus you will have built in anti-scald protection.

 

[Morawski]

Replace the shower valve and call a pro who is licensed and insured to replace the tub waste and DO NOT allow the plumber to set it in cement . Use clean fill or protect the new water prior to filling the void in the concrete

Cement does eat ferrous and non ferrous metals

Thanks, thinking at this point this is the best approach. I wonder if this was the builder or some past owner that worked this in.

I agree that the drain needs to be dug up to expose the trap and a new waste and overflow be set and not poured in with concrete without proper expansion and contraction spacing if there is a need to fill the hole due to pests perhaps. Tubs are not the easiest fixtures to start as a DIY'r but are definitely in the realm of doable if you have the time and willingness to learn. Mostly if this is not your primary bathroom and you have the luxury to spend the time to do it correctly. I would replace the rough in valve now with a new pressure balance or thermostatic valve while you have it open. You have a LOT more options of modern trim styles so your bathroom won't be instantly "dated" by the limited number of trim available for that old Moen valve. Plus you will have built in anti-scald protection.

Yep... smack in the face after renovating our upstairs bath on how much work that can be for a tub. Makes sense to upgrade so you've sold me on that even if we don't expect to be here long. Its not our main but at this point I could use one less headache. I figure if I'm going to end up bringing in the cavalry they can make quick work of the other stuff.

Speaking of which, how should I work with a plumber in regards to a valve? Is it acceptable for the homeowner to supply this? I know with mechanics for example they refuse to use parts provided by clients. I have a feeling plumbers avoid the DIY type (for reasons I can understand)

 

[Tuttles Revenge]

Thanks, thinking at this point this is the best approach. I wonder if this was the builder or some past owner that worked this in.


Yep... smack in the face after renovating our upstairs bath on how much work that can be for a tub. Makes sense to upgrade so you've sold me on that even if we don't expect to be here long. Its not our main but at this point I could use one less headache. I figure if I'm going to end up bringing in the cavalry they can make quick work of the other stuff.

Speaking of which, how should I work with a plumber in regards to a valve? Is it acceptable for the homeowner to supply this? I know with mechanics for example they refuse to use parts provided by clients. I have a feeling plumbers avoid the DIY type (for reasons I can understand)

We purchase the plumbing valves and faucets for most of the remodel work that we do which has a lot to do with the warranty. But we also do provide installation of homeowner furnished fixtures provided that they come from a well known manufacturer. The main reason being that we want to be able to service those fixtures years from now rather than having to tell the customer that their seemingly expensive shower valve got a Lot more expensive because the manufacture doesn't make their own shower cartridges and the one they used is no longer manufactured. And as you know, you could get a replacement cartridge for that Moen shower now... and long into the future.. they would be one of the manufacturers that I would recommend.

 

[Morawski]

We purchase the plumbing valves and faucets for most of the remodel work that we do which has a lot to do with the warranty. But we also do provide installation of homeowner furnished fixtures provided that they come from a well known manufacturer. The main reason being that we want to be able to service those fixtures years from now rather than having to tell the customer that their seemingly expensive shower valve got a Lot more expensive because the manufacture doesn't make their own shower cartridges and the one they used is no longer manufactured. And as you know, you could get a replacement cartridge for that Moen shower now... and long into the future.. they would be one of the manufacturers that I would recommend.

Extremely helpful, thank you!

 

[Jeff H Young]

bust open floor it wont be too bad to run new waste and overflow , the tub valve might need to move a bit for center bon new tub and although I have a like for that old Moen that isn't legal anymore on a new install due to them not having antiscald technology best to buy a new valve as well Delta, or Moen are good to me and not expensive .

 

[Morawski]

bust open floor it wont be too bad to run new waste and overflow , the tub valve might need to move a bit for center bon new tub and although I have a like for that old Moen that isn't legal anymore on a new install due to them not having antiscald technology best to buy a new valve as well Delta, or Moen are good to me and not expensive .

Hm. Never seen much on how to deal with this. Would this require a jackhammer then? Get past the slab and then would it just be some kind of slip joint to ABS at which point I could just build from that?

Also, damn that antiscald, I like my scalding showers, helps the lower back.

 

[Jeff H Young]

Hm. Never seen much on how to deal with this. Would this require a jackhammer then? Get past the slab and then would it just be some kind of slip joint to ABS at which point I could just build from that?

Also, damn that antiscald, I like my scalding showers, helps the lower back.

Perhaps but the nice thing about these valves is the temp doesn't fluctuate when a toilet is flushed or some other fixture.
typically before the slab was poured a small section was boxed out for the trap , sometimes its patched after tub installed like yours it might be mostly dirt and construction debris and a couple inches of concrete or a weak mix. If you are lucky it might come out with little difficulty

 

[Tuttles Revenge]

Anti scald doesn't mean Not Hot. Just means no nasty surprise when someone flushes a toilet. My favorite not terribly expensive valve is the Delta **TempAssure** which has the ability to adjust the volume of water with 1 handle and temperature control with another.

The concrete that was Re-Poured around the tub drain should come up with a small sledge hammer. It wasn't the original pour so it is likely to be fairly thin. But a small chipping gun or even a roto hammer might make short work of it. Just depends on what tools you have available.

**Edited**
I used the incorrect model category for Delta.. I prefer their Tempassure over their other pressure balance or thermostatic valves, but all are competent for anti scald.

 

[Sylvan]

Also, damn that antiscald, I like my scalding showers, helps the lower back.

Possibly once your children are scalded because of the lack of anti scald devices you can sue the installer and in some civilized countries if a child is hurt because of a parents neglect (not wearing seat belts for example) then the child can sue the parent as stupidity is not an excuse for causing bodily harm

 

[Sylvan]

Anti scald doesn't mean Not Hot. Just means no nasty surprise when someone flushes a toilet. My favorite not terribly expensive valve is the Delta Monitor 17 which has the ability to adjust the volume of water with 1 handle and temperature control with another.

Anti scald doesn't mean Not Hot. Just means no nasty surprise when someone flushes a toilet. My favorite not terribly expensive valve is the Delta Monitor 17 which has the ability to adjust the volume of water with 1 handle and temperature control with another.

What an anti scald devices is set to deliver water at a maximum of 120 deg F. . I set all my installations to 110 DEG F

I strictly use Delta shower valves with integral stops

A few years ago a 3" CW Riser split around 7 PM and the upper most floors lost all CW pressure

Some people were either taking a bath or were showering

The shower bodies I did replace of the past 20 years shut down to a trickle preventing anyone from being scalded


One of my accounts is a CO-OP is listed below

https://www.google.com/maps/place/5...a7f1899b0d8b7e!8m2!3d40.8780303!4d-73.9169226