Best washing machine stop valve configuration?

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Gslenk

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I'm partial to dahl valves and would prefer to stick with those. They do not seem to make a stop with an integrated hammer arrestor for washing machines (or I am just not searching correctly).

Two questions:
1) I know compression is the standard on pretty much all other stops. I assume washer stops should be sweated instead since that portion would be buried in the wall, is that correct?

2) Should the stops have integrated hammer arrestors, or install them separately (since they seem to all eventually go bad)?

Overall, I'm looking for the most reliable connection, and easiest to service/replace if necessary.

If not sticking with Dahl, any feedback on this box? Seems like it solves all my problems and more in one readily available package. Somewhere I read the o-ring "replaceable valve" connection fails over time, any merit to this?

It is the Oatey MODA part # 37860

https://www.lowes.com/pd/Oatey-Quar...r-Sweat-Washing-Machine-Outlet-Box/1000795776
 

Tuttles Revenge

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If you don't purchase a box with the hammer arrester built in.. which are a major pain to change out.. I would go with these Sioux Chief arresters which connect after the box and also angle downwards lessening the strain on the hose.

A trick we like to use on those boxes is to take a bit of 1/2" PEX and expand it over the 2 handles. You lose the ability to shut each off independently, but who cares.. it makes it easier to shut off when you need to. Just make sure its not too long or it will hit the top of the box.

sioux-chief-660-h.jpg
 

Gslenk

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I went with the linked box, water supply up top, stand pipe on bottom in one box. I'll find those SF arresters. Good point easier, to change them since they tend to have a service life.
 
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