Another settings post 5600sxt

[latexyankee]

Hardness is 12GPG, usage is 175 gallons per day, softener is 1cft.

Install is tomorrow but plumber doesn't know much regarding softeners aside from proper connection and setup. I haven't read anything in the manual or watched the videos, that will be tonight. I see a few knowledge members here contributing to these posts so I figured Id give it a shot.

Thanks for any replies.

 

[Reach4]

You did not specify your iron number, nor if this is for a well. This assumes no iron, such as would be the case with city water.

Follow link to see if you have T0.7 meter (more common turbine) or P0.7 meter

System info (not programmed)
salt lb/cuft = 7.5 ; A choice ( efficiency vs capacity)
BLFC = 0.5 ; Brine Refill rate GPM
cubic ft resin = 1 ; ft3 resin = (nominal grains)/32,000
Compensated hardness = 14 ; including any compensation
People = 2.92 ; gallons affects reserve calc
Estimated gal/day = 175 ; 60 gal per person typical calc
Estimated days/regen = 9.00 ; Computed days including reserve

Fleck 5600SXT Settings:
DF = Gal ; Units
VT = dF1b ; Downflw/, Single Backwash, black cam
CT = Fd ; Meter Delayed regen trigger
NT = 1 ; Number of tanks
C = 23.0 ; capacity in 1000 grains
H = 14 ; Hardness-- compensate if needed
RS = rc ; rc says use gallons vs percent
RC = 175 ; Reserve capacity gallons
DO = 30 ; Day Override (28 if no iron)
RT = 2:00 ; Regen time (default 2 AM)
BW = 5 ; Backwash (minutes)
Bd = 60 ; Brine draw minutes
RR = 5 ; Rapid Rinse minutes
BF = 5 ; Brine fill minutes
FM = ____0.7 ; https://terrylove.com/forums/index.php?attachments/img_fleck5600sxt_flow-png.31592/
FM pix: http://terrylove.com/forums/index.php?attachments/img_fleck5600sxt_flow-png.31592/

 

[Sponsor]

 

[latexyankee]

Wow thanks, yea its city water so no iron hence while I left it out. Going through the manual now. Any other tips for someone with no knowledge of these things aside from my purchasing research? Srs, thank you, always good to get some info from a professional.

 

[Reach4]

I am not a pro.

Keep some salt above the water. The pour can be tilted to accomplish that, or just use plenty of salt.
Note the part in the manual about an initial treatment with bleach into the brine tank.

The brine sucks down to about the middle of the check valve each regeneration time. So bring the initial water up to at least that level, plus add an extra 2.5 or 3 gallons. That way the water should be there for the first regen. Either put that water in before the salt goes in, or pour the water down the brine tube.

The resin should be fully charged initially, so you don't need to regen at the beginning.

 

[latexyankee]

I am not a pro.

Keep some salt above the water. The pour can be tilted to accomplish that, or just use plenty of salt.
Note the part in the manual about an initial treatment with bleach into the brine tank.

The brine sucks down to about the middle of the check valve each regeneration time. So bring the initial water up to at least that level, plus add an extra 2.5 or 3 gallons. That way the water should be there for the first regen. Either put that water in before the salt goes in, or pour the water down the brine tube.

The resin should be fully charged initially, so you don't need to regen at the beginning.

Do pellets vs crystals matter? Can you combine them if I were to buy pellets and toss them on top of the crystals? I bought 2 bags of crystals and did the initial regeneration as stated in the manual. The water level is above the salt now but I can add more. I was wondering in this case how to tell when to add more salt if the water IS in fact above the salt level. I guess either do the math based on regeneration settings, use something to poke down there, or just always keep adding salt so its at a higher level than the water....or at least visible. I'm getting ready to program the unit now.

 

[Reach4]

Pellets vs solar salt made for softening are both good. Do not use road salt.

I like pellets, because they are slightly cheaper for me, and have less insolubles. In some areas, solar salt is cheaper. Check Sams or Costco.
For timing, adding salt an hour before the softener will regen is soon enough, but it is also OK to put in a bunch of salt so that you will not have to attend to the softener for months.

One person thinks that it is not important for the water to be above the salt. I disagree. Note that the water in the brine tube is usually higher than the water in the bulk of the brine tank. Why do you think that is? I think it is because the salt does not spread vertically well, so the water in the brine tube has less salt-- thus that water is lighter.

When the unit is new, you might avoid putting in 120 pounds of salt initially. But after you see that things are working, pile it as high as you like. For right now, one more bag will probably do you for a while. Expect to use one bag every 2 months or so. They come in 40, 44, and 50 lb bags typically. There are also 25 pound blocks made for the purpose. Those work too, and you are not lifting as much at a time.

 

[latexyankee]

Pellets vs solar salt made for softening are both good. Do not use road salt.

I like pellets, because they are slightly cheaper for me, and have less insolubles. In some areas, solar salt is cheaper. Check Sams or Costco.
For timing, adding salt an hour before the softener will regen is soon enough, but it is also OK to put in a bunch of salt so that you will not have to attend to the softener for months.

One person thinks that it is not important for the water to be above the salt. I disagree. Note that the water in the brine tube is usually higher than the water in the bulk of the brine tank. Why do you think that is? I think it is because the salt does not spread vertically well, so the water in the brine tube has less salt-- thus that water is lighter.

When the unit is new, you might avoid putting in 120 pounds of salt initially. But after you see that things are working, pile it as high as you like. For right now, one more bag will probably do you for a while. Expect to use one bag every 2 months or so. They come in 40, 44, and 50 lb bags typically. There are also 25 pound blocks made for the purpose. Those work too, and you are not lifting as much at a time.

Right on I'll move to pellets. Using my local hardware store (do it best branded salt) as its just so close compared to everything else. I do have a TSC nearby as well. Can i mix some pellets with the current crystals and then just use pellets from here on out? Rather do that and load it up than wait until the current salt is almost gone. I was told by someone or some article not to fill it to the top with salt....I only put 2 40lbs in and its still pretty low so I can double that. My usage/regen cycles are looking to be around 10 days and its set for 8lbs/24k grains. So filling this even halfway should be good for months.

 

[Reach4]

No problem switching between, or mixing, solar salt and pellets.

I was avoiding the word crystals, because road salt is also crystals. But softener crystals are good, and I see that is what solar softener salt is often called.

 

[latexyankee]

No problem switching between, or mixing, solar salt and pellets.

I was avoiding the word crystals, because road salt is also crystals. But softener crystals are good, and I see that is what solar softener salt is often called.

Gotcha. Nah it specifically says water softener salt on the bag. I will say a few months ago before really researching I did think I could use just a bag of salt I throw on the walk during winter.

Do it Best 40 Lb. Extra-Coarse Water Softener Salt Crystals | Do it Best

Extra coarse water softener salt is designed to eliminate tank clean-out and help your softener unit operate at peak efficiency day after day.

www.zettlerhardware.com

I did see they had 2 kinds of cubes/pellets one with rust remover. Is that more for iron control? I'm on city water so i think im good there.

 

[Reach4]

You are correct-- iron will have settled out before it reaches you. That settled iron oxide is part of what they are washing out when they do "hydrant flushing".