4 TON 16 SEER AMANA HEAT PUMP

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Sterling431

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My Amana 4 ton 2 stage 16 SEER condenser shuts down and would not come back on by itself. The AC tech said it appeared the HP switch could be the cause after checking everything else. I cleaned the coils thoroughly. The unit is in a corner and those 2 sides were very dirty. I cleaned them thoroughly. Once it turns off after making temp it will not restart until I turn off the 24V to the circuit board. Repeat... It seems that something on the circuit board (or elsewhere) is resetting itself each time I turn off the 24V. The unit is about 11 years old and is in great shape. The AC tech came back and could not find the problem and suggesting the circuit board is the problem, or he said it may be a good idea to replace the entire condensing unit. The unit does not have contactors. Anyone experience this specific problem? Don't want to buy a new circuit board and find out the problem is still there. Would appreciate any suggestions.
 

WorthFlorida

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Does it quit while running or the problem is after the thermostat is satisfied? I'm also leaning that it is a bad board. Ten year old unit still has plenty of life. When you remove the 24v, are you powering off just the condenser unit or the entire unit including the air handler? There is a board inside the air handler and usually the 24 volt transformer. Does your thermostat use batteries or is it a smart thermostat?

There are usually high and low pressure switches. After the power cycle and as it starts, pressure might be too low and shuts down and it doesn't reset. They are usually very robust and last the life of the unit. I'm sure the tech checked the pressures so the pressure itself is not the problem, however, it doesn't rule out the control board.

HP switch (reversing valve) would not prevent it from starting, if it was bad it would be running in heat pump mode. Most HP units default to heat and the reversing valve is operated in the "cool" setting and 24v power to the (usually orange) wire from the thermostat.

Just to try something and I don't think it will work any different, place the thermostat in heat mode and then raise the temp to turn on the heat pump. No more than two degrees so the AUX heat doesn't turn on if there is two stage heat.


My Amana 4 ton 2 stage 16 SEER condenser shuts down and would not come back on by itself. T...... The unit does not have contactors.
That I'm not sure unless it is a perhaps a split unit. What is the model number? Is there a diagram label on the inside of the cover for where the control board and electric connections are? Can you take a picture and post it?
 

Fitter30

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16 seer unit could have a split condenser where the units panels have to come off and the opposite end of the piping is two pieces can be held together with plastic wire ties or clips. 80% can be split and inner coil will be dirty. Why didn't the service person clean the coil? Hi pressure control is a easy control to check out just disconnect the fan. Most manuals don't have a procedure for cleaning or if it has a split coil.
 

Sterling431

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Does it quit while running or the problem is after the thermostat is satisfied? I'm also leaning that it is a bad board. Ten year old unit still has plenty of life. When you remove the 24v, are you powering off just the condenser unit or the entire unit including the air handler? There is a board inside the air handler and usually the 24 volt transformer. Does your thermostat use batteries or is it a smart thermostat?

There are usually high and low pressure switches. After the power cycle and as it starts, pressure might be too low and shuts down and it doesn't reset. They are usually very robust and last the life of the unit. I'm sure the tech checked the pressures so the pressure itself is not the problem, however, it doesn't rule out the control board.

HP switch (reversing valve) would not prevent it from starting, if it was bad it would be running in heat pump mode. Most HP units default to heat and the reversing valve is operated in the "cool" setting and 24v power to the (usually orange) wire from the thermostat.

Just to try something and I don't think it will work any different, place the thermostat in heat mode and then raise the temp to turn on the heat pump. No more than two degrees so the AUX heat doesn't turn on if there is two stage heat.



That I'm not sure unless it is a perhaps a split unit. What is the model number? Is there a diagram label on the inside of the cover for where the control board and electric connections are? Can you take a picture and post it?
Thanks very much for the reply. The problem is it will not restart after the temp is satisfied unless you turn off the red emergency switch for about 1 minute and then turn back on. The condenser is a Amana model ASZC160481AA. Its a 2 stage 16 seer heat pump with gas backup heat. It has seemed to me to always run on a single speed on cooling mode though. There is a sensor on the heat pump that switches to gas in cold weather (Chesapeake, VA) when it drops to about 40 degrees. The fan speed on heat mode is noticeably higher than when on cooling mode. Several days after the problem occurred I noticed the Emerson t-stat (originally installed with unit) was reading 99 degrees when it was approx 74 degrees in the house. I removed the batteries and put them back in and it corrected to the correct temp. I have bought a new T-stat but have not had it installed yet..
Does it quit while running or the problem is after the thermostat is satisfied? I'm also leaning that it is a bad board. Ten year old unit still has plenty of life. When you remove the 24v, are you powering off just the condenser unit or the entire unit including the air handler? There is a board inside the air handler and usually the 24 volt transformer. Does your thermostat use batteries or is it a smart thermostat?

There are usually high and low pressure switches. After the power cycle and as it starts, pressure might be too low and shuts down and it doesn't reset. They are usually very robust and last the life of the unit. I'm sure the tech checked the pressures so the pressure itself is not the problem, however, it doesn't rule out the control board.

HP switch (reversing valve) would not prevent it from starting, if it was bad it would be running in heat pump mode. Most HP units default to heat and the reversing valve is operated in the "cool" setting and 24v power to the (usually orange) wire from the thermostat.

Just to try something and I don't think it will work any different, place the thermostat in heat mode and then raise the temp to turn on the heat pump. No more than two degrees so the AUX heat doesn't turn on if there is two stage heat.



That I'm not sure unless it is a perhaps a split unit. What is the model number? Is there a diagram label on the inside of the cover for where the control board and electric connections are? Can you take a picture and post it?
Amana heat pump ASZC160481AA. It runs until the stat is satisfied and then will not come back on unless I kill the 24V via the red emergency single pole switch inside house. After I turn the 24V back on, it will come back on after a minute or two and run until the stat is satisfied again, repeat...Having trouble posting all the pics. The ECB yellow trouble code is flashing 4 times in cooling mode. A few days after this problem started I noticed the original stat was reading 99 degrees inside when it was about 74 degrees. I took it off, removed the batteries (twice) and it finally read the correct temp. The stat has a C wire and also has batteries. I have bought a new 2 stage heat/cool stat but have not installed it yet as I don't want to complicate the T-shooting any more than necessary. I put the unit in stage 1 heat mode as you asked and the unit came on. I let it run a few minutes and turned it off by raising the stat by 2 degrees. Waited a few minutes and turn the heat back up 1 degree over ambient and the unit turned back on. It does not come back on in cooling mode. I also noticed 3 flashes on trouble code light when in heat mode. Having a little issue with pics. Should have them posted in a few minutes hopefully.
 

Sterling431

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Thanks very much for the reply. The problem is it will not restart after the temp is satisfied unless you turn off the red emergency switch for about 1 minute and then turn back on. The condenser is a Amana model ASZC160481AA. Its a 2 stage 16 seer heat pump with gas backup heat. It has seemed to me to always run on a single speed on cooling mode though. There is a sensor on the heat pump that switches to gas in cold weather (Chesapeake, VA) when it drops to about 40 degrees. The fan speed on heat mode is noticeably higher than when on cooling mode. Several days after the problem occurred I noticed the Emerson t-stat (originally installed with unit) was reading 99 degrees when it was approx 74 degrees in the house. I removed the batteries and put them back in and it corrected to the correct temp. I have bought a new T-stat but have not had it installed yet..

Amana heat pump ASZC160481AA. It runs until the stat is satisfied and then will not come back on unless I kill the 24V via the red emergency single pole switch inside house. After I turn the 24V back on, it will come back on after a minute or two and run until the stat is satisfied again, repeat...Having trouble posting all the pics. The ECB yellow trouble code is flashing 4 times in cooling mode. A few days after this problem started I noticed the original stat was reading 99 degrees inside when it was about 74 degrees. I took it off, removed the batteries (twice) and it finally read the correct temp. The stat has a C wire and also has batteries. I have bought a new 2 stage heat/cool stat but have not installed it yet as I don't want to complicate the T-shooting any more than necessary. I put the unit in stage 1 heat mode as you asked and the unit came on. I let it run a few minutes and turned it off by raising the stat by 2 degrees. Waited a few minutes and turn the heat back up 1 degree over ambient and the unit turned back on. It does not come back on in cooling mode. I also noticed 3 flashes on trouble code light when in heat mode. Having a little issue with pics. Should have them posted in a few minutes hopefully.

IMG_1170-10.jpg


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sterling431-01.jpg
 
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WorthFlorida

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From pictures, the print and your description is the best I can do without being there. I would change out the thermostat, it just might fix your problem.

It could be the thermostat and do you know how to use a voltmeter? At the control board in the compressor unit, at the top of the board are the thermostat wires. Y1 (usually a yellow wire) is the cool wire. The thermostat brings 24vac to this terminal. When the unit won't start after a about a three-five minute wait, check if there is voltage on Y1. Most digital thermostats have a built in timer between compressor cycles. If no voltage is at Y1 on a restart, the problem is the thermostat. If there is voltage and no start then it looks more like the control board but since you power cycle the the air handler, the thermostat gets its 24vac from.
However, I do not see a transformer in the picture. The wire nuts in the small box below are low voltage thermostat wires and the board maybe powered by the air handler transformer, therefore, when you power cycle it, the compressor board is also powered cycled and the problem may clear.

Another test that the compressor board is good, if you look at the wiring, a wire from the 24v transformer runs to the thermostat terminals, that red wire will have 24v ac on it. With a jumper wire short the red to the Y1 and the compressor should kick on. Basic compressor units with a standard control board has all its 24vac from the transformer in the air handler. The red wire terminal usually will have the red wire from the thermostat.

The last two pages is the wiring diagram. As usually it is hard wire print, not much about the board itself. You're right but the contactor is on the board. I think it is the blue relay but and with standard contactor you can easily push the contacts closed to manually start (test) the unit. A 24 volt transformer is also in the compressor unit, at least from the wiring diagram. I believe it is only for the circuit board and the thermostat the 24vac from air handler transformer.


 
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Sterling431

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Great. Just saw your reply. Will ck out the thermostat wiring in the morning as you describe. Again, thank you for for taking time to help me.
 

Fitter30

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Heres a service manual
Looking at the manual for a short time unit could use either a conventional two stage stat or a communication stat that talks to furnace , condenser and between them. Hi pressure switch is in series with a discharge stat. Does the furnace have a ecm ( variable speed) blower motor? What brand and model thermostat?
 

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I have the ASZC16 heat pump. Does the same thing periodically. I found the led flashes 8 times. The error code guide says stuck contactor. If i cycle the power it runs for another day or 2. I cant find a contactor to replace. It appears it is built into the motherboard. Is this correct? Whats a new control board going to cost me? Thanks all for the help
 

Fitter30

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Im not sure its a stuck contactor. If it was compressor would still be running would tripped off on a internal compressor overload by high temperature wouldn't reset for hours when it did reset compressor would restart and overheat again. Compressor would be so hot it would burn you if touched within a hour. There is one compressor wire that runs through a current sensor that is looking for current only when compressor should be running. Could be a faulty board but it would a gamble. Want to cycle the unit and watch it a few.time at least.
 

Fitter30

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Can a homeowner install the new board with a reasonable skill level or does it need to bet configured by a tech?
If its like for like. Take pics of the mounted wired board first that way any loose wires you'll know where they go, plug in wires if there is two that are similar the wire colors won't be. If theres two wires under one screw mark them. Once any electrical part is purchased it's yours. The service person said it might be a high pressure switch it could have been tested showing at what pressure it would tripped but it should of show a failure but after cycling power the board is erased and units reset.
 
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RTHORN

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Im not sure its a stuck contactor. If it was compressor would still be running would tripped off on a internal compressor overload by high temperature wouldn't reset for hours when it did reset compressor would restart and overheat again. Compressor would be so hot it would burn you if touched within a hour. There is one compressor wire that runs through a current sensor that is looking for current only when compressor should be running. Could be a faulty board but it would a gamble. Want to cycle the unit and watch it a few.time at least.
The led flashes 8 times which says stuck contactor. Looks like a fail safe so when temp is achieved the unit shuts itself off after some period of time
 
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