2 stage wiring

[GCC]

One of the pressure switches went bad a few years back so they cut them out of the circuit. I don’t see a time delay - the y1 (former y2 when wired wrong) goes straight to the contactor. But it’s been wired so y2 was that wire that connected to the contactor and y1 was going to the cs. I changed it so y1 is now correct. I think it’s always been wired wrong. But even with y1 correct, when it kicks on it energizes both y1 and Y2. I really think that that y1 should be alone on one side of the contactor and y2 and the common on the other. I think when y1 is getting 24v it is always energizing y2 through as they are both connected to the same side of the contactor.

I moved it so it matches the following:

Y1 goes straight to the right side of the contactor. Y2 goes to cs and comes back to the left side of the contactor. Common goes to the left side.

I can’t get a pick of the cs - it’s at the very bottom of the compressor.

I’ve nervous to turn it on though! Lol! I think it should work this way…can I try it or do you see an issue with it?

Ok - so I got brave….

I wired it the way I described. Y1 goes straight to right side of contactor. There are no pressure switches or delays. Common goes straight to left side. Y2 goes to cs and the red wire comes back to the same side as the common.

Turned it on. Compressor pulled 9.5 amps in stage 1. When it kicked to stage 2 it started pulling 13.5 amps! So, that should be right, right? I think this id how it is supposed to go. It’s just hard for me to believe it’s been wired wrong all these years.

My only worry is that when they took out the switches due to them failing a few years back that maybe they purposely wired it so it never went into the higher stage?? Is it safe to not have the time delay and switches?

 

[Fitter30]

One of the pressure switches went bad a few years back so they cut them out of the circuit. I don’t see a time delay - the y1 (former y2 when wired wrong) goes straight to the contactor. But it’s been wired so y2 was that wire that connected to the contactor and y1 was going to the cs. I changed it so y1 is now correct. I think it’s always been wired wrong. But even with y1 correct, when it kicks on it energizes both y1 and Y2. I really think that that y1 should be alone on one side of the contactor and y2 and the common on the other. I think when y1 is getting 24v it is always energizing y2 through as they are both connected to the same side of the contactor.

I moved it so it matches the following:

Y1 goes straight to the right side of the contactor. Y2 goes to cs and comes back to the left side of the contactor. Common goes to the left side.

I can’t get a pick of the cs - it’s at the very bottom of the compressor.

I’ve nervous to turn it on though! Lol! I think it should work this way…can I try it or do you see an issue with it?

The diagram is correct. Look at the left side of diagram the contactor. Right side of contactor coil there are three wires red goes to cs, brown / yellow C thermostat and black to t3 of ctd all common 24v. It doesn't matter which side of the contactor coil there on. Don't need to see cs coil and where it's located the.coil is the only serviceable part.

 

[Sponsor]

 

[Fitter30]

I've seen equipment wired or piped wrong till the equipment was replaced. When service people eliminate safeties and time delays not doing the customer any favors. Compressor doesn't have the protection factory wanted. So a pressure switch that costs under $50 could save 1k compressor.

 

[GCC]

One of the pressure switches went bad a few years back so they cut them out of the circuit. I don’t see a time delay - the y1 (former y2 when wired wrong) goes straight to the contactor. But it’s been wired so y2 was that wire that connected to the contactor and y1 was going to the cs. I changed it so y1 is now correct. I think it’s always been wired wrong. But even with y1 correct, when it kicks on it energizes both y1 and Y2. I really think that that y1 should be alone on one side of the contactor and y2 and the common on the other. I think when y1 is getting 24v it is always energizing y2 through as they are both connected to the same side of the contactor.

I moved it so it matches the following:

Y1 goes straight to the right side of the contactor. Y2 goes to cs and comes back to the left side of the contactor. Common goes to the left side.

I can’t get a pick of the cs - it’s at the very bottom of the compressor.

I’ve nervous to turn it on though! Lol! I think it should work this way…can I try it or do you see an issue with it?

So I tried it

It’s working as it should. Y1 straight to contactor (no switches or anything in between), y2 to cs and back to contactor but on the opposite side of where Y1 is, and the common to the same side as y2.

Compressor started in on stage 1. Black compressor wire read about 9.3 amps, where it normal has been when previously measured. But when stage 2 kicked on it ramped up to about 12.5 or so.

My only concern is this…either the original company installed it wrong, or when it died a few years back and they removed the LP and HP switches they resided it to not kick into stage 2. I mean, I guess that makes more sense then 2 companies for it wrong? So is their any danger in running it in stage 2 without those switches? It seems to be fine now.

Thanks for all the help guys!

 

[Fitter30]

Builders grade units run without pressure controls. They rely on a internal compressor thermal sensor so the compressor has to over heat before it shuts off. When a condenser fan stops the compressor runs till it gets so hot can't touch it and it shuts off and compressor will not come back on till it cools down. Just have to wonder if the service person was going to come back or got so busy your unit was lost in paper work. Glad it never happen to me working 80 +hour weeks in the summer.

 

[GCC]

Builders grade units run without pressure controls. They rely on a internal compressor thermal sensor so the compressor has to over heat before it shuts off. When a condenser fan stops the compressor runs till it gets so hot can't touch it and it shuts off and compressor will not come back on till it cools down. Just have to wonder if the service person was going to come back or got so busy your unit was lost in paper work. Glad it never happen to me working 80 +hour weeks in the summer.

Well I appreciate you expertise. Everything is in there I think. They seem to have just cut the wire. I don’t remember which was bad but wonder if I could replace it. Is it just wires or does it tie into the refrigerant line?

 

[Fitter30]

More than likely they will look like this. Can take a ohm reading across them if there closed 0 ohms or close could wire them back in.

REFRIGERATION CONTROL CO 632473R REPLACEMENT HIGH PRESSURE SWITCH W/ LEADS 663132275588 | eBay

Model #: 632473R. 2015 Federal Regional Standards for Heating and Cooling Products. Alternate Model #.

www.ebay.com

 

[GCC]

More than likely they will look like this. Can take a ohm reading across them if there closed 0 ohms or close could wire them back in.

REFRIGERATION CONTROL CO 632473R REPLACEMENT HIGH PRESSURE SWITCH W/ LEADS 663132275588 | eBay

Model #: 632473R. 2015 Federal Regional Standards for Heating and Cooling Products. Alternate Model #.

www.ebay.com

Ok - I’ll check and see what they are like if I can get to them. But I don’t want to mess with refrigerant or anything.

 

[GCC]

More than likely they will look like this. Can take a ohm reading across them if there closed 0 ohms or close could wire them back in.

REFRIGERATION CONTROL CO 632473R REPLACEMENT HIGH PRESSURE SWITCH W/ LEADS 663132275588 | eBay

Model #: 632473R. 2015 Federal Regional Standards for Heating and Cooling Products. Alternate Model #.

www.ebay.com

I took a good look at what is in the unit. It doesn't look like there is wiring at all for a Compressor Time Delay or anything that looks like that, but there is definitely wiring for the Low and high pressure switches. From the way it looks, originally Y1 went to the LPS on Yellow/pink wire, which then connected to he HPS on a blue/purple wire, which then plugged into the contactor. I separated the switches out. the HPS has continuity but the LPS does not.

I'd like to replace the LPS but...I am not sure of the refrigerant issue. If there is a schrader valve under there, that would be great. If not, that would be a disaster. Also, I am not sure if they are universal or if I need a specific brand/model for this. Seems like the right thing to do is to replace it though.

 

[Fitter30]

Factory mounted pressure controls might not have a core in them. With a tee can mount another on the gage port. The tees come both ways nut is on the run or on the side outlet (bull). Any numbers on the control? Refrigerant 22 ?

CPS AVT45 1/4" SAE Charging Tee Valve Connector - 2 Pack

CPS 1/4" SAE Tee Valve Connector - 2 Pack

www.trutechtools.com

SLP2550 - Supco SLP2550 - Low Pressure Switch Replacement

Supco SLP2550 - Low Pressure Switch Replacement - Pressure Switch

www.supplyhouse.com

 

[GCC]

Here is the best pic I can get from the top. I haven't figured out how I'd even get in there yet and don't want to start taking things apart without any more reason yet.

Refrigerant is Puron....I may have to let this end here. I was hoping t be able to change out that switch. I feel like it was my fault it died. I was trying to clean the coils and then it stopped working. Maybe water got in it or something? I mean, I was careful but after that it wouldn't start. This was in 2018. They came out and tested it and bypassed it. It would be nice to replace it.

 

[GCC]

Here is the best pic I can get from the top. I haven't figured out how I'd even get in there yet and don't want to start taking things apart without any more reason yet.
View attachment 81251
Refrigerant is Puron....I may have to let this end here. I was hoping t be able to change out that switch. I feel like it was my fault it died. I was trying to clean the coils and then it stopped working. Maybe water got in it or something? I mean, I was careful but after that it wouldn't start. This was in 2018. They came out and tested it and bypassed it. It would be nice to replace it.

So I don't think that switch can be replaced. It's definitely factory and the fact that I can't find replacement switches might mean it's brazed on there. I think your idea about the Tee might work, just not sure which switch is appropriate.

The other thought I had was...why are we bypassing both the high and Low if the High still works? Better to have 1 working than none, no? LOL - I dunno - this is all new to me.

 

[WorthFlorida]

As long as you get enough cooling when the compressor kicks in for stage 1, you're OK. When the day comes to replace the unit, a single stage cooling unit at SEER 16 with a typical 2,000 square ft home in Florida is quite efficient and low cost to run. I have a Carrier 3.5 ton SEER16, single stage cool, two stage heat (heat pump and electric) with a 2475 sq.ft. two story home. To get above SEER 17 and higher the cost usually goes way up and more complicated as you are finding.

 

[GCC]

As long as you get enough cooling when the compressor kicks in for stage 1, you're OK. When the day comes to replace the unit, a single stage cooling unit at SEER 16 with a typical 2,000 square ft home in Florida is quite efficient and low cost to run. I have a Carrier 3.5 ton SEER16, single stage cool, two stage heat (heat pump and electric) with a 2475 sq.ft. two story home. To get above SEER 17 and higher the cost usually goes way up and more complicated as you are finding.

Yeah - best to leave it alone I think. Thanks for all the help!! It’s really appreciated!