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Thread: toilet plumbing question?

  1. #1

    Default toilet plumbing question?

    I am building a shop in the back yard, there used to be a travel trailer back ther
    with a septic tank hookup, it is cast iron sticking out of the ground @ about 22
    deg, for the 4" hose to stick in. now my floor is going to be concrete,
    i think i can dig it out a couple of feet and cut it off, and run my toilet drain down to it and ofcourse run a 2" vent up the wall. do you guys forsee any problems with my idiea
    Thanks for your input Stonestacker

  2. #2
    Moderator & Master Plumber hj's Avatar
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    Default idea

    We don't see any problem with your idea, but we also don't see any problems with your addition. The reason being, that we know absolutely nothing about HOW you are going to do either one.

  3. #3

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    Quote Originally Posted by hj View Post
    We don't see any problem with your idea, but we also don't see any problems with your addition. The reason being, that we know absolutely nothing about HOW you are going to do either one.
    I am sorry about not going into detail on my plans! running late
    any way i am building a 20'x20' shop in the back yard, not attatched to the house. i will form it up and pour a 12"x12" footing! and then pour a 4" slab on
    top of that. the toilet drain will be flush with the slab, 12" oc from finished
    2x4 wall, the footing plus slab will be 16", now what i want to do is run the toilet
    drain to the cast iron pipe in the photo, but i will dig down a foot or two, and
    conect it with a rubber conector. Stonestacker
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  4. #4

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    well thanks for all your input!

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    DIY scratch-pad engineer leejosepho's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by stonestacker View Post
    i am building a 20'x20' shop in the back yard, not attatched to the house. i will form it up and pour a 12"x12" footing! and then pour a 4" slab on top of that.
    Are you in a frost-free area? If not, your footing will need to go deeper, and it might need to do so anyway unless you are working on some very solid ground there.

  6. #6

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    thanks for your reply, well 40 years ago it would get down to 20 deg easy
    in the winter, now days it rarley gets to 32 deg. as far as the soil, what is not
    bedrock is hard clay

  7. #7
    Moderator & Master Plumber hj's Avatar
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    Default drain

    Running the toilet to the cast iron pipe? Good! Installing the toilet piping incorrectly? Bad! We would have to know HOW you intend to do the piping before we can give you a pass.

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    DIY scratch-pad engineer leejosepho's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by stonestacker View Post
    thanks for your reply, well 40 years ago it would get down to 20 deg easy in the winter, now days it rarley gets to 32 deg. as far as the soil, what is not bedrock is hard clay
    If you have to deal with local codes, permits and inspections, you might want to see what kind of footing is required as related to your frost line. Also, even hard clay can get soft and squishy when it gets wet, and I would be very hesitant about such a shallow and small footing unless the footing and floor were monolithic (a single pour).

    I do not know all the names and specs for the parts, but there are rubber bushings that will let you connect PVC pipe to what you already have. And if you are only going to have a toilet, you should not need a vent. I have a capped RV dump station going into my vented septic system from outside the back corner of my garage, and I recently put a toilet in my new workshop by simply adding a wye and an ell in that 4" line before pouring the floor. When all by itself, a toilet does not always need a vent.
    Last edited by leejosepho; 07-09-2008 at 04:47 PM.

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    Master Plumber Redwood's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by leejosepho View Post
    And if you are only going to have a toilet, you should not need a vent. I have a capped RV dump station going into my vented septic system from outside the back corner of my garage, and I recently put a toilet in my new workshop by simply adding a wye and an ell in that 4" line before pouring the floor. When all by itself, a toilet does not always need a vent.


    To meet code and pass an inspection in most places it would need a vent!

  10. #10
    DIY scratch-pad engineer leejosepho's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Redwood View Post


    To meet code and pass an inspection in most places it would need a vent!
    The OP is not in most places.

  11. #11

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    my footing will have #4 rebar stubed up 4' every 24" which i will bend and tie
    to the rebar matt befor i pour

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    Retired Defense Industry Engineer jadnashua's Avatar
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    Unless the whole building floats, the footing must be below the frost line in stabile soil or you are risking problems, rebar or not. Clay is very unstable - it expands and contracts a lot with moisture. This could raise the whole building unless the footings are solid. This can play hell with plumbing connections and even buried electrical ones.
    Jim DeBruycker
    Important note - I'm not a pro
    Retired Defense Industry Engineer; Schluter 2.5-day Workshop Completed 2013, 2014

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    Master Plumber Redwood's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by leejosepho View Post
    The OP is not in most places.
    Lee, perhaps you could enlighten me as to where in the US you could plumb a toilet in this manner without a vent being required...

    I was not aware that the OP was posting from the third world...

  14. #14
    DIY scratch-pad engineer leejosepho's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by stonestacker View Post
    my footing will have #4 rebar stubed up 4' every 24" which i will bend and tie to the rebar matt befor i pour
    Jim is correct ... and no amount of rebar in any configuration will overcome an insufficient footing. The best rebar ever does is to keep pieces of concrete from separating greatly after the original piece cracks ... and a brief look at my garage easily proves that. Somebody did about the same as what you have planned, and now my walls and the floor are all over the place.

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