Charlie Bosco
Active Member
So first my rant.. what I am finding out is that no Water Heater manufacture really wants you to change the anode. Even though they suggest regular maintenance and replace it. If they added a powered anode from the factory you'd never have to replace it. Seems everything I have read indicates that even brand new they are wrenched so hard that most homeowners just say F it.
So, I need to replace my current heater. its old, drips from the encrusted pressure relief occasionally and the drain threads are so buggied up that I still have not been able to screw a hose on it. I need to drain this 50 gallon piece of crap before I can cut it out of there.
I am trying to anticipate the issues I might run into and wanted some ideas.. I am not too confident I am going to be able to get a hose on the drain.. If I do, I am not sure the Valve will open without breaking and if I get that far, there is most likely so much sludge it wont drain anyway.
So I was thinking I could siphon most of the water out from the Cold line that goes deep in the tank.. Well I recently found out there is an anti-siphon hole drilled into the pipe so that's not going to be possible. Aggh
I read shoving a length of pex down the cold water side might allow me to siphon most of it. It does not have to be completely empty, just light enough for me to use a hand truck to wheel it out of the house and dump it. Im thinking full its like 600lbs.
Before hand I plan to have the new WH ready and with the Powered Anode installed. This brings me to the next question. Any tips removing the factory anode from the New WH?
Im buying a cheap Electric 50 gallon Rheem from Home Depot.. at $389 I can replace this thing once a year and not give a crap. The powered anode is only in case I get sulfur smell. I have a well with a water softener. dont want to take a chance. I plan to use the Sharkbite connector set so no soldering and the supply lines just unscrew.
So, I need to replace my current heater. its old, drips from the encrusted pressure relief occasionally and the drain threads are so buggied up that I still have not been able to screw a hose on it. I need to drain this 50 gallon piece of crap before I can cut it out of there.
I am trying to anticipate the issues I might run into and wanted some ideas.. I am not too confident I am going to be able to get a hose on the drain.. If I do, I am not sure the Valve will open without breaking and if I get that far, there is most likely so much sludge it wont drain anyway.
So I was thinking I could siphon most of the water out from the Cold line that goes deep in the tank.. Well I recently found out there is an anti-siphon hole drilled into the pipe so that's not going to be possible. Aggh
I read shoving a length of pex down the cold water side might allow me to siphon most of it. It does not have to be completely empty, just light enough for me to use a hand truck to wheel it out of the house and dump it. Im thinking full its like 600lbs.
Before hand I plan to have the new WH ready and with the Powered Anode installed. This brings me to the next question. Any tips removing the factory anode from the New WH?
Im buying a cheap Electric 50 gallon Rheem from Home Depot.. at $389 I can replace this thing once a year and not give a crap. The powered anode is only in case I get sulfur smell. I have a well with a water softener. dont want to take a chance. I plan to use the Sharkbite connector set so no soldering and the supply lines just unscrew.