Scrutinize my plan please! willing to listen.

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g.s. meiningen

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Just registered today, I have read many post here in the last five years or so and now I have a need. We have severe drought in California, drillers and service people are flocking to the Central Valley. Even the oil guys are drilling some deep water holes in the south valley, heard yesterday northwest of Bakersfield they were drilling well over a thousand feet and got a gusher, too bad, it was salt water. Lot of problems and too many people also. My domestic went dry on 8/15/14 and I have been water hauling for a week, nothing new to me, we haul water in Northern Arizona at a property over there. My interest is to set up a storage tank at the side of my house and I have a system in mind. Any professional advice is welcomed. This will be a stand alone system as I am going to feed my tank from a deep well I have that is a half mile away, although when irrigating some orchards it runs within 300 feet of the house and I will tap this line to top off my tank. My system will be a 5000 gallon poly tank, from the bottom I will install a two inch isolation valve, some pipe and then a check valve, a 1 hp jet pump 25 gpm @45 ppsi, a pressure switch, a 120 gallon bladder tank, a filter and another isolation valve before entering the house. Also, some provision for valves and tee's in order to separate the new system and to allow the existing domestic to be plumbed into the storage tank if and when it recovers. If this is overkill or not up to snuff, please chime in. I was looking at a Goulds GT-10 or J10-S, thought I would go out for a Well X Trol WX350 bladder tank. I have read over here about the Cycle Stop Valve, could I use it to lessen the size of the bladder tank and save some money, or is the bladder tank and pump as called out suitable for some long term needs. I am a farmer, not a well guy. Devised this on my own as I see a lot of water pumping equipment and I have a lot of gear laying around. Any response is welcomed.
 

Valveman

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A CSV as with the Pside-Kick kit using a 4.5 gallon tank will do a much better job than the biggest and most expensive pressure tank you can buy.
 
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Valveman

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Or you can use a submersible in the storage tank as a booster. Stay away from the GT pump. It doesn’t build enough pressure to do what you want.
 
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g.s. meiningen

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Thanks valveman for the schematics, the first schematic was pretty much exactly as I had planned. Since you suggested not to go with the GT-10, what would you suggest for the submersible inside the tank. A 1/2 hp, a 3/4 hp or a 1 hp at about 20 gpm. Also if I went with the submersible inside of the polytank and using the Pside-kick kit, is there a need for the pump control box that you would normally find above ground in a normal submersible pump situation. Thanks, GS
 

Reach4

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See https://terrylove.com/forums/index....ible-pump-for-underground-storage-tank.50088/
Note the suggestion of a third pipe around the pump to serve as a flow inducer sleeve to keep the motor cool. Your topside submersible pumps could probably be 1/2 HP, but it would have fewer stages than a pump designed to push water at 5 GPM from 200 feet down into a 60 PSI system. So it might be something like a 15 GPM or more pump even though it is only 1/2 HP.
 

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Thanks valveman for the schematics, the first schematic was pretty much exactly as I had planned. Since you suggested not to go with the GT-10, what would you suggest for the submersible inside the tank. A 1/2 hp, a 3/4 hp or a 1 hp at about 20 gpm. Also if I went with the submersible inside of the polytank and using the Pside-kick kit, is there a need for the pump control box that you would normally find above ground in a normal submersible pump situation. Thanks, GS

The CSV will let you put in as large a pump as you think you may need, and makes it work like a small pump when you don't need much water. With the 1HP, 20 GPM you can use as much as 20 GPM, but the CSV will let it safely work down to 1 GPM when that is all you are using.
 
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