You could do that, but you would need to add two 90s, 6 or more inches above the flood plane, in order to bring the vent in from directly above.
Need to get my tub/shower p-trap lower
- Thread starter Tyk5054
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Sam Nechvatal
New Member
Ok.... So I think I have understood your advise and have now dry fit the following solution.
In this first picture I show it the best I can on a clean background and all the components labeled.
So this is in a mobile home and will never be inspected. I think it is not allowed to put the reducers in the fitting based on me asking around about getting a wye with both 2 and 1.5 in connections.
Here in the second picture I have it laid it about as well as I can before I remove the old piping.
So you think this is a go?
There is one nagging doubt I have with this. in the picture above the Tee right below my hand seems to also act as a vent for the toilet. The toilet would be coming straight through, not making the turn. Not really sure what the turn goes to. But the kitchen is in that direction. As far as the toilet goes, I am pretty sure it is attached to a back pipe connection that comes out of the toilet down pipe. Since my tub water used to enter at a higher level than that pipe, I have some concerns. Any advise on that?
Hoping to cut into all this on Friday and get the tub in over the weekend.
Sam
In this first picture I show it the best I can on a clean background and all the components labeled.
So this is in a mobile home and will never be inspected. I think it is not allowed to put the reducers in the fitting based on me asking around about getting a wye with both 2 and 1.5 in connections.
Here in the second picture I have it laid it about as well as I can before I remove the old piping.
So you think this is a go?
There is one nagging doubt I have with this. in the picture above the Tee right below my hand seems to also act as a vent for the toilet. The toilet would be coming straight through, not making the turn. Not really sure what the turn goes to. But the kitchen is in that direction. As far as the toilet goes, I am pretty sure it is attached to a back pipe connection that comes out of the toilet down pipe. Since my tub water used to enter at a higher level than that pipe, I have some concerns. Any advise on that?
Hoping to cut into all this on Friday and get the tub in over the weekend.
Sam
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wwhitney
In the Trades
Basically looks OK, a few comments:
1) Is that trap going to be accessible after installation? If not, I think a solvent weld trap is appropriate (not sure if it is required). If it is, then the threaded trap you have is reasonable and would let you clean out the trap.
2) If the toilet is wet vented via the horizontal left-right drain line in your last photo, then changing from the upright sanitary tee to the wye arrangement does not negatively impact that.
3) Is the fitting under your hand in the last photo a combo or a sanitary tee? And is it plausible that the branch inlet is receiving the kitchen waste? If so, it should be a combo, and now is the time to fix it if it isn't. On the other hand, if it's been working fine . . .
4) I'm not aware of any problem using the reducers like you show. An alternative would be to get a 1-1/2" street wye and 2" x 1-1/2" reducing coupling. I'm a bit unclear on the wet venting fine details and whether the body of that wye should really be a 2" body.
Cheers, Wayne
1) Is that trap going to be accessible after installation? If not, I think a solvent weld trap is appropriate (not sure if it is required). If it is, then the threaded trap you have is reasonable and would let you clean out the trap.
2) If the toilet is wet vented via the horizontal left-right drain line in your last photo, then changing from the upright sanitary tee to the wye arrangement does not negatively impact that.
3) Is the fitting under your hand in the last photo a combo or a sanitary tee? And is it plausible that the branch inlet is receiving the kitchen waste? If so, it should be a combo, and now is the time to fix it if it isn't. On the other hand, if it's been working fine . . .
4) I'm not aware of any problem using the reducers like you show. An alternative would be to get a 1-1/2" street wye and 2" x 1-1/2" reducing coupling. I'm a bit unclear on the wet venting fine details and whether the body of that wye should really be a 2" body.
Cheers, Wayne
wwhitney
In the Trades
P.S. This idea comes a bit late, and may be a bit unorthodox, but I'm not aware of any problem with it:
If it would lower your bath trap arm enough, you could replace the (upstream-ward) "LT 90-pipe segment -upright sanitary tee" configuration you have with "a street 45- sanitary tee at a 45 angle-street 45" configuration. The street ends of the 45s would go into the sanitary tee.
Cheers, Wayne
If it would lower your bath trap arm enough, you could replace the (upstream-ward) "LT 90-pipe segment -upright sanitary tee" configuration you have with "a street 45- sanitary tee at a 45 angle-street 45" configuration. The street ends of the 45s would go into the sanitary tee.
Cheers, Wayne
Sam Nechvatal
New Member
Hello Wayne,
Thanks for the words of encouragement.
Addressing the points:
1. The trap will be accessible after installation.
2. Thanks for that confirmation
3. It is a sanitary Tee. I am not really sure if it comes from the kitchen. There is a chance that it comes from the washing machine. No longer in service (we are not putting a new one in). And I guess it has been working fine. This trailer has been set up this way for at least 35 years so...
4. I never thought about that. I was going with 2" body because that is what the full horizontal pipe is.
as far ths the PS post goes. I don't really think I follow you 100%. So I think I will go with what I have as I think the line up of the drain is giong to work out.
Thanks,
Sam
Thanks for the words of encouragement.
Addressing the points:
1. The trap will be accessible after installation.
2. Thanks for that confirmation
3. It is a sanitary Tee. I am not really sure if it comes from the kitchen. There is a chance that it comes from the washing machine. No longer in service (we are not putting a new one in). And I guess it has been working fine. This trailer has been set up this way for at least 35 years so...
4. I never thought about that. I was going with 2" body because that is what the full horizontal pipe is.
as far ths the PS post goes. I don't really think I follow you 100%. So I think I will go with what I have as I think the line up of the drain is giong to work out.
Thanks,
Sam
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