If you were to flush out the pressure tank and the air separation tank, you might find that the existing system works better. The air should give you ferric iron (rust) and you would need to flush that out.
Looking for opinions on this water treatment setup
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LLigetfa
DIYer, not in the trades
The oxidation and precipitation starts right at the micronizer so it, the pipe after it, the tank Tee, and the inside of the tank will have serious iron buildup. For that reason, I use HP tanks and have several unions along the path so that I can take it apart and pressure wash it. The micronizers I soak in muriatic acid to clean.
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bricktop
New Member
Some updates...
Was able to remove the micronizer to measure unrestricted flow. Pump produced about 9 to 9.5 gpm with about 25 psi at the head, which should be enough backwash flow for an oxidizing filter of size appropriate for the house.
When testing flow with the micronizer removed, the water produced was extremely reddish (see attached). After a few minutes it calmed down to the second picture (which also isn't great). Iron or iron bacteria getting flushed out from the high flow rate that it normally never sees? I might get a Hach IR-18 (total iron test kit) to test this again to see if it's just iron or something else.
I put the micronizer back in place after testing.
What do you mean by HP tank?
Was able to remove the micronizer to measure unrestricted flow. Pump produced about 9 to 9.5 gpm with about 25 psi at the head, which should be enough backwash flow for an oxidizing filter of size appropriate for the house.
When testing flow with the micronizer removed, the water produced was extremely reddish (see attached). After a few minutes it calmed down to the second picture (which also isn't great). Iron or iron bacteria getting flushed out from the high flow rate that it normally never sees? I might get a Hach IR-18 (total iron test kit) to test this again to see if it's just iron or something else.
I put the micronizer back in place after testing.
What do you mean by HP tank?
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LLigetfa
DIYer, not in the trades
HP = Hydro Pneumatic so no bladder or diaphragm to keep the air separate from the water. The air is in contact with the water.
ditttohead
Water systems designer, R&D
You mean like this?
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LLigetfa
DIYer, not in the trades
I've seen much wo
I've seen much worse, down to the size of a pencil.
bricktop
New Member
That would make more sense for this system. The tank in there now has a mfr data of 2015, maybe the old one needed to be replaced due to iron buildup.
Another thing I noticed in this system: The second micronizer just before the air separation and contact tank is installed backwards. Would there be any purpose to this? Crude flow limiter? Or just a mistake?
ditttohead
Water systems designer, R&D
Mistake.
bricktop
New Member
Just to follow up, I went with a new AIO3 injection filter with katalox lite and a 48k softener, both with Clack WS1 valves. Iron is gone post-filter and water is crystal clear, but I will monitor for a while with a Hach IR-18. pH is high, as many have experienced and mentioned, and that may/should subside over time. Once the pH is settled a bit, will have the water professionally tested again. I have a fairly sensitive manganese test kit coming as well to check that.
I'm backwashing the filter (10x54 Vortech with 1.5ft3 KL) every other day at about 9 gpm for 14min. My water is fairly cold year-round (~10C).
I'm backwashing the filter (10x54 Vortech with 1.5ft3 KL) every other day at about 9 gpm for 14min. My water is fairly cold year-round (~10C).
bricktop
New Member
bricktop
New Member
Measured the pH using a LaMotte kit, and looks like it's currently sitting at 10.5. Will see how this varies over time. Water tastes good though. I think some people pay a lot for this Alkaline water stuff. Since hardness is zero, most of the alkalinity then here must be from hydroxyls.
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