Flagstaff
New Member
Hi, I'm looking for some advice and recommendations to solve a yellow tint well water problem.
The property is located in the western Maine mountains. The well is approximately 20 years old, concrete construction, approximately 4 ft diameter and 20 ft deep, and is located on the edge of a forested wetland with several surface water springs within 50 ft. Yellow and tea-colored water are common in the lakes and rivers in the area. We shock chlorinate the well a few times per year, but it should be noted the well itself is perfectly clean and does grow some moss near the water line. Also, this is a vacation house so water usage is limited to weekends only and the house has a septic system.
The well water chemistry is (before any filters or treatment):
pH = 6.51
Total Alkalinity as CaCO3 = 51.0 mg/L
Hardness as CaCO3 = 23.6 mg/L
Total Dissolved Solids = 80.2 mg/L
Tannins = 1.5 mg/L
For metals and minerals above the standard:
Aluminum = 0.218 mg/L
Iron = 1.36 mg/L
Lead = 0.22 mg/L
Manganese = 0.641 mg/L
A few years ago we installed a US Water Systems Flexx InFusion hydrogen peroxide / carbon filter in an attempt to remove all iron and manganese. We have verified the system is functioning correctly and have also replaced the carbon to rule-out that potential cause. Dosage has been set at the maximum rate for nearly 1 year now and there is plenty of residual H2O2 is present. In addition, we've also tried a variety of 4.5"x20" filters (Argonide Nanoceram, Disruptor, Interceptor, 1 micron, etc) with no success.
One of the recommended home tests to determine if the problem is tannins or iron, by adding Iron-Out rust remover to a treated water sample, does cause the water in the sample to become clear, indicating the problem is iron, not tannins. However, conversely, if a treated water sample is left in a glass on the kitchen countertop overnight, no particles form and nothing settles-out, indicating the problem is tannins or colloidal iron? Is this correct? Or many IRB interference?
We're considered drilling a new well. A new well installed will cost about $15,000, we'll have to wait at least 1 year, and the water will likely contain arsenic. If we keep our existing well, we are open to aerating the well, adding a dry pellet chlorination to the well, adding another softener and tannin filter, installing an ultrafiltration system, or just jumping straight to RO.
We'd prefer to trial solutions, complete additional water tests if you have additional recommendations, and start to narrowing down our options.
Thank you for you help!
The property is located in the western Maine mountains. The well is approximately 20 years old, concrete construction, approximately 4 ft diameter and 20 ft deep, and is located on the edge of a forested wetland with several surface water springs within 50 ft. Yellow and tea-colored water are common in the lakes and rivers in the area. We shock chlorinate the well a few times per year, but it should be noted the well itself is perfectly clean and does grow some moss near the water line. Also, this is a vacation house so water usage is limited to weekends only and the house has a septic system.
The well water chemistry is (before any filters or treatment):
pH = 6.51
Total Alkalinity as CaCO3 = 51.0 mg/L
Hardness as CaCO3 = 23.6 mg/L
Total Dissolved Solids = 80.2 mg/L
Tannins = 1.5 mg/L
For metals and minerals above the standard:
Aluminum = 0.218 mg/L
Iron = 1.36 mg/L
Lead = 0.22 mg/L
Manganese = 0.641 mg/L
A few years ago we installed a US Water Systems Flexx InFusion hydrogen peroxide / carbon filter in an attempt to remove all iron and manganese. We have verified the system is functioning correctly and have also replaced the carbon to rule-out that potential cause. Dosage has been set at the maximum rate for nearly 1 year now and there is plenty of residual H2O2 is present. In addition, we've also tried a variety of 4.5"x20" filters (Argonide Nanoceram, Disruptor, Interceptor, 1 micron, etc) with no success.
One of the recommended home tests to determine if the problem is tannins or iron, by adding Iron-Out rust remover to a treated water sample, does cause the water in the sample to become clear, indicating the problem is iron, not tannins. However, conversely, if a treated water sample is left in a glass on the kitchen countertop overnight, no particles form and nothing settles-out, indicating the problem is tannins or colloidal iron? Is this correct? Or many IRB interference?
We're considered drilling a new well. A new well installed will cost about $15,000, we'll have to wait at least 1 year, and the water will likely contain arsenic. If we keep our existing well, we are open to aerating the well, adding a dry pellet chlorination to the well, adding another softener and tannin filter, installing an ultrafiltration system, or just jumping straight to RO.
We'd prefer to trial solutions, complete additional water tests if you have additional recommendations, and start to narrowing down our options.
Thank you for you help!
