Leak in pipe going thru foundation wall, what’s next?

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Reach4

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It wont be a full new service line, its just the pipe going thru the foundation wall. Its literally leaking a drop per 10-15 mins, very slow leak. Water is on until I can get everything together.
You could start digging, or lining up a shovel operator, while accumulating supplies. I don't think you will want to do that yourself in one day. A six foot hole is a lot of work. Anyway, you are guessing as to what you will need until you get down there I think.
 

Joe D

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So as you can see, currently there is a steel pipe in the wall, copper service line going thru it, and concrete in between the copper line and steel pipe.. thinking about cutting both ends off the copper pipe and hitting it with a hammer to see if i can get it to slide out.. then clearing the concrete thats left with a rotary hammer
 

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Joe D

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You could start digging, or lining up a shovel operator, while accumulating supplies. I don't think you will want to do that yourself in one day. A six foot hole is a lot of work. Anyway, you are guessing as to what you will need until you get down there I think.
Yeah ive called a local excavator, just waiting on a return call
 

Joe D

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If I do manage to get the copper pipe out of the existing concrete, should i just lay copper pipe with a poly sleeve inside the steel pipe? If so, what do I do to keep it all water tight from outside water?
 
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Joe D

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Was digging and ran accross this pipe.. looks like a sewage pipe but mine is on the other sice of the house... too big to be a gas line or water line... electric line is off the roof... what the hell is this thing.
 

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Reach4

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Seems high to be a perimeter drain. Gutters?
 

wwhitney

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So as you can see, currently there is a steel pipe in the wall, copper service line going thru it, and concrete in between the copper line and steel pipe
Concrete is corrosive to copper (not to steel), so the cementitious fill between the steel sleeve and the copper pipe probably corroded the copper pipe. Although I would think the steel sleeve would also corrode at the outside end, being exposed to the soil.

If you can clear the steel sleeve, and it's not corroded, then you could reuse it. The question is how to properly fill the annular void between the copper and the steel. If you thoroughly spiral wrapped that portion of the copper pipe with 10 mil PVC tape, then a cementitious fill should be OK. But perhaps someone else has a better idea.

As to the mystery exterior pipe, your best case would be former sewer or downspout pipe now abandoned, but it would be a bit hard to be sure of that. How old is the house?

Cheers, Wayne
 

Joe D

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House is circa 1940... im going with your idea on the pvc wrap unless someone has a better idea!
 

Reach4

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If you connect in a new copper section to go through the wall, consider type L.

If you can clear the steel sleeve, and it's not corroded, then you could reuse it. The question is how to properly fill the annular void between the copper and the steel. If you thoroughly spiral wrapped that portion of the copper pipe with 10 mil PVC tape, then a cementitious fill should be OK. But perhaps someone else has a better idea.
https://terrylove.com/forums/index.php?threads/water-line-foundation-penetration-call-back.59292/
https://terrylove.com/forums/index....netrations-for-pipe-wiring.77098/#post-564839
 

Reach4

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Using compression coupling? I meant to say K. Sorry. But L is fine.
 

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Was digging and ran accross this pipe.. looks like a sewage pipe but mine is on the other sice of the house...

House is circa 1940...
Was your house fitted with overhead sewers? Often they will route the sewer around the house, rather than running an overhead line across the basement.
 

Joe D

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Was your house fitted with overhead sewers? Often they will route the sewer around the house, rather than running an overhead line across the basement.
Not sure what overhead sewers are, but I have the sewer and gas and water company comming out to mark where the pipes are active.
 

Joe D

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Now im trying to figure out how to jam concrete between the copper pipe and steel pipe after the pipe is layed, lol.. compression fitting, nope was just gonna solder it!
 
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James Henry

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If I were you I would spend an hour on the internet and research the best method and material to seal the penetration, if you do a rush job and it leaks you'll just have to do it over.
 

Reach4

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Not sure what overhead sewers are, but I have the sewer and gas and water company comming out to mark where the pipes are active.
Overhead sewers send the main floor and above waste out the sides of the basement wall, and send any basement sewage to a septic pit to be pumped up to join the other waste. This is to prevent sewer backups into the basement. This can be done as a retrofit, and it is very effective.

The more common way is to have the waste pipes go through the basement floor and out to the sewer below the level of the basement floor.
 

Joe D

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I have a pit that my sewage goes into and is pumped to the road but the pit and sewage outlet is on the other side of the house.
 

Joe D

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If I were you I would spend an hour on the internet and research the best method and material to seal the penetration, if you do a rush job and it leaks you'll just have to do it over.
Only thing people are mentioning is butyl rubber sealent and spray foam
 

Reach4

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Silicone RTV , or oakum haven't come up? See #30.

I have a pit that my sewage goes into and is pumped to the road but the pit and sewage outlet is on the other side of the house.

Kitchen waste or bathroom waste doesn't maybe go out the back wall?

Somebody could have run wires through that pipe.
 
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Joe D

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Maybe wires, but my sink drain and bathroom drain all lead to other side of the house
 
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