rural_engineer
In the Trades
I don't want to get caught running back and forth to my well looking for the right tools while my house is without water. Will I need any special tools or supplies to pull the motor from the pump and put it back?
Is my pump drawing too much current
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1/2" boxed in wrench and a screw driver. I would also use a framing square to make sure the motor shaft has a stick up height of 1.5".
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rural_engineer
In the Trades
I'll do the motor test in the next few days.
If I need to replace the motor, I see a few options:
Stick with Grundfos, but go to 3 wire:
96465612 Motor, 1.5HP ($389 + shipping)
98315254 or 91126212 Control Box, 1.5HP ($125)
Switch to Franklin
2243009203S Motor, 1.5HP ($561 + shipping)
2823008110 Control Box, 1.5HP ($105)
Do these parts seem right? Should I consider other brands?
Do I need to match the brand of control box to the motor? It looks like the starting cap is 120uF in both, but the running cap is 10uF with Grundfos and 15uF with Franklin.
If I need to replace the motor, I see a few options:
Stick with Grundfos, but go to 3 wire:
96465612 Motor, 1.5HP ($389 + shipping)
98315254 or 91126212 Control Box, 1.5HP ($125)
Switch to Franklin
2243009203S Motor, 1.5HP ($561 + shipping)
2823008110 Control Box, 1.5HP ($105)
Do these parts seem right? Should I consider other brands?
Do I need to match the brand of control box to the motor? It looks like the starting cap is 120uF in both, but the running cap is 10uF with Grundfos and 15uF with Franklin.
Yes the Grundfos 3 wire motors are good, and Franklin 2 and 3 wire motors are still good until they change something again. The control boxes will interchange as the little difference in the start cap won't make much difference.
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