Bunny
New Member
I went and look but I defiantly need to clean it off so I am going to do that and look for the arrow thanks!
Cycle Stop VS VFD Do I really need to covert the system?
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The union is your only problem. That union is not rated for anywhere near the pressure the pipe is rated for. The check valve is the first thing sticking out of the well and will have an arrow on it. That check valve is causing the water hammer pop that eventually takes out the o-ring in the union. Remove everything all the way to the well casing. Add a short brass nipple and coupling where the check valve is now. Then glue on two elbows to make it fit the pipe, and you won't need the union. Without the check valve and the union you will not have anymore problems. it is very typical for a pump guy to keep replacing a union they should know won't work, just to be able to blame a problem on the CSV and talk you into spending a few extra thousand on a VFD. 
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Bunny
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Thanks makes a lot of sense! I will give the Plumber the info tomorrow and get the pipe done correctly. Really makes so much sense now why they have been after us since they first showed to do the service on the filtration system to upgrade to this valve and why they kept replacing this union when it started leaking!The union is your only problem. That union is not rated for anywhere near the pressure the pipe is rated for. The check valve is the first thing sticking out of the well and will have an arrow on it. That check valve is causing the water hammer pop that eventually takes out the o-ring in the union. Remove everything all the way to the well casing. Add a short brass nipple and coupling where the check valve is now. Then glue on two elbows to make it fit the pipe, and you won't need the union. Without the check valve and the union you will not have anymore problems. it is very typical for a pump guy to keep replacing a union they should know won't work, just to be able to blame a problem on the CSV and talk you into spending a few extra thousand on a VFD.
Bunny
New Member
One more question If I please may ask. I was also told this equipment for the well is to deep and needs to be raised up so its more serviceable. Keep in mind everything in this box was completely buried is it fine how it is? can we put an insulated weatherproof box around it so its more serviceable? Is it fine buried? Or indeed should it be lifted? The box is currently under a carportThe union is your only problem. That union is not rated for anywhere near the pressure the pipe is rated for. The check valve is the first thing sticking out of the well and will have an arrow on it. That check valve is causing the water hammer pop that eventually takes out the o-ring in the union. Remove everything all the way to the well casing. Add a short brass nipple and coupling where the check valve is now. Then glue on two elbows to make it fit the pipe, and you won't need the union. Without the check valve and the union you will not have anymore problems. it is very typical for a pump guy to keep replacing a union they should know won't work, just to be able to blame a problem on the CSV and talk you into spending a few extra thousand on a VFD.
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The well casing needs to be about 18" above grade. Yours looks a little low, but as long as a flood cannot get up to the green well cap it will be fine. I don't know what is in those other boxes. But I doubt they need to be raised. Looks like just some valves in a valve box and a couple of pipes over other valves. You can get extensions to fit that valve box that will extend it until the green lid is above surface. Then add some more pipe over the other valves and fill in around everything.
I wouldn't give them credit for being devious enough to know to use the union. Probably just a lack of knowing how much pressure a union or anything can take. If they don't know something that simple, they shouldn't be trying to sell something as technically complicated as a VFD. Lol!
Bunny
New Member
Thank you, pictured is what is in the large green box to the left I don't know what's in the two risers
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Bannerman
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I don't see the well system pressure tank in the photos showing the softener and filtration equipment. Perhaps the pressure tank was simply not included in those photos, or maybe, the two circles shown in the green box, are the tops of two small pressure tanks that are buried?
If the pressure tank is buried, then where is the well pump pressure switch located?
Suggest posting some additional photos showing the well system supply pipe where it enters the home, and also photos of any additional equipment that is connected to the supply pipe.
If the pressure tank is buried, then where is the well pump pressure switch located?
Suggest posting some additional photos showing the well system supply pipe where it enters the home, and also photos of any additional equipment that is connected to the supply pipe.
Bunny
New Member
I am told those two are the pressure tanks I believe the switch is on a board that is above where those tanks are I will look as that is something that I should know
Bunny
New Member
I believe this is the well pump pressure switch
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Bannerman
Well-Known Member
Not the pressure switch, but is the power supply for your well pump.
The box on the right is the submersible motor controller for an Eco-Flo pump likely equipped with a 3/4 HP motor, but take a closeup photo of the cover as it will provide clarification of the controller model code and HP rating.
The pressure switch should appear similar to the grey box shown below, which is sensing the water pressure in the supply line directly at the pressure tank. Since it seems your pressure tank(s) is buried, your pressure switch cannot be buried and so it will need to be connected to the supply pipe and remain accessible somewhere nearby to the pressure tank location.
Edit to add: As you said your system is equipped with a CSV, where is it located? A CSV needs to be located between the pump and the pressure tank/pressure switch.
The box on the right is the submersible motor controller for an Eco-Flo pump likely equipped with a 3/4 HP motor, but take a closeup photo of the cover as it will provide clarification of the controller model code and HP rating.
The pressure switch should appear similar to the grey box shown below, which is sensing the water pressure in the supply line directly at the pressure tank. Since it seems your pressure tank(s) is buried, your pressure switch cannot be buried and so it will need to be connected to the supply pipe and remain accessible somewhere nearby to the pressure tank location.
Edit to add: As you said your system is equipped with a CSV, where is it located? A CSV needs to be located between the pump and the pressure tank/pressure switch.
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Bunny
New Member
Thank you all great questions that I will attempt to find out. I will look in the filtration room and see if it is there I don't know where else it would be since there is no other equipment I can findNot the pressure switch, but is the power supply for your well pump.
The box on the right is the submersible motor controller for an Eco-Flo pump likely equipped with a 3/4 HP motor, but take a closeup photo of the cover as it will provide clarification of the controller model code and HP rating.
The pressure switch should appear similar to the grey box shown below, which is sensing the water pressure in the supply line directly at the pressure tank. Since it seems your pressure tank(s) is buried, your pressure switch cannot be buried and so it will need to be connected to the supply pipe and remain accessible somewhere nearby to the pressure tank location.
Edit to add: As you said your system is equipped with a CSV, where is it located? A CSV needs to be located between the pump and the pressure tank/pressure switch.
Normally expect to find the pressure switch next to the pressure tank and the pressure gauge. If you have buried pressure tank(s), then the pressure switch would be nearby. Maybe in that well parts box.
If you have a submersible pump, the right thing to do is to get the casing extended above ground, and a pitless adapter put in. The problem with an underground well seal is that they don't seal. Well can get contaminated. I had my well pit demolished, casing extended, and pitless adapter installed.
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Bunny
New Member
I am told by this forum that we have a pitless adapter I am going to go look for the box you showed to see if I can find it
I reviewed the earlier posts on this thread, and yes you have a pitless adapter. I did not connect these later pictures with the one that showed your well, but I definitely remember your well picture.
So that buried
How far is that box from the suspected buried pressure tank(s)?
The lid to that valve box is probably not screwed down. Just open the green lid and give us another picture.
Bunny
New Member
This is what is in the green box
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Bunny
New Member
Here is what is in that green box
I reviewed the earlier posts on this thread, and yes you have a pitless adapter. I did not connect these later pictures with the one that showed your well, but I definitely remember your well picture.
So that buriedgraygreen box in "well parts box2.jpg" may well contain your pressure switch. You could clean the top of that box, and unscrew the lid. See what you see.
How far is that box from the suspected buried pressure tank(s)?
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Bunny
New Member
I am happy to report that the plumber came and fixed the leak today! I spoke to him about the advice we recieved here and he agreed that the schedule 40 PVC union is the likely corporate as we found digging a bit further out that it was going from Schedule 80 to schedule 40 with the union to the brass-metal not sure what it is but you know what I mean. He agreed we needed to get rid of the union so we did! I was not successful in getting him to remove the check valve as he said it was needed and I said I thought it was redundant as it is likely in line somewhere but given that I am not a plumber I don't have a lot of room to argue. I was grateful they fit us in to a full scheule to get our water back in business. The schedule 40 PVC union area had been repaired twice by the well company. I am really hopeful this solves this ongoing problem! I am so Thankful to all the help and advice I recieved here as I would not have known to ask for the repair to be done differently without the advice. We also have decided not to change the valve as it seems like it really is not the issue at all! And we will be finding a new well company for service if we need it. The well company I speak of was also servicing our water filtration system and told me that no one else in our area services that particular filtration system. I am currently working to find out. I am now thankful for the time that is being taken to help me learn my well parts and where everything is ! I think its really important I know at least as much as I can so I do not get taken advantage of. If not for research and finding this board I very well might have been out $6000 and in for some trouble down the line! So a huge thank you!!
@Valveman @Reach4
@Valveman @Reach4
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