BOB Multiturn Sink Shutoff Washers

[Baumgrenze]

I wanted to install a washer on a bathroom sink but the shutoff kept a steady flow so I resorted to my main shutoff. The shutoff also had a persistent packing drip. The house was built in 1955. I think this is original equipment.

https://imgur.com/a/LTWoEz4

As you can see, the handle declares it a BOB shutoff. A web search turned up Bob Villa but I found no ready access to information about the maker. It is not leaking right now, but I will certainly need to come back to it in the future. I want to know if the washer (which remained in the valve when I pulled out the stem without removing the handle) is located properly or is even the correct washer. Perhaps it is intended to slip over the mushroom at the end of the stem which might be a design feature allowing a quick change of the washer without unscrewing a stem screw.

I've been tempted to replace the shutoffs with new 1/4 turn ball valves. The connection to the plumbing is a 1/2" brass nipple. I measured across the threads where the hose mounts and found 0.58" which is clearly not 3/8" which seems to be today's standard. At present I believe we will move to a retirement community in a few years. Perhaps I should just leave it to someone else if it continues to work.

Thanks
baumgrenze

 

[Reach4]

The connection to the plumbing is a 1/2" brass nipple. I measured across the threads where the hose mounts and found 0.58" which is clearly not 3/8" which seems to be today's standard.

3/8 schedule 40 pipe is 0.675 OD. So given the taper, 0.58" sounds like nominal 3/8.

 

[Sponsor]

 

[Grahampoo]

That is the correct location for the washer. There should be another larger washer under the nut that you can also replace.

 

[FullySprinklered]

Those washers just pop on, but I haven't found a source for those yet. I usually buy a new stop and rob the stem assembly out of it. Screw it in and your done. Different brands seem to be interchangeable, though I had one lately that wouldn't cooperate with me. Haven't met BOB yet.

 

[WorthFlorida]

Here's BOB. https://www.dultmeier.com/manufacturers/bob-float-valves.php

House built in 1950 and in the NE you probably have 1/2 copper pipe. If there is enough pipe extending out from the wall, with the right tools and finesse, cut off the old valve, smooth the copper pipe of burs and slip on one of these sharkbites. No soldering needed. If not, hardware stores like True Value and Ace, and if you have an old time hardware store in CT, you may be able to buy an entire new stem and cap nut. You may find after all the replacements parts were had, these old suckers will alway weep water.

If the valve is connected with a compression fitting, buying an new valve and just using the entire new valve and reuse the compression nut still on the pipe will also work. If it is soldered on then rebuilding or replacement is the options.

 

[Reach4]

How about a side or top view showing the pipe that comes out of the wall, and the part of the valve that connects to that pipe.

That sharkbyte valve can be a very good solution. If you have a compression valve on there, you may be able to pull the stuff off the pipe and put a new compression valve there.

 

[Terry]

If it's a brass nipple from the wall, then it's going to be an IP fitting.
Nipples are normally 1/2" ID but I've also seen 3/8" ID nipples and stops. That was in Virginia.
Copper pipe is 5/8" OD.