The stud wall on the right is that a bearing wall? Any point loads coming down on it?
2"x4"'s a pretty strong but I'm thinking you should have used something like a 4"x6" or 6"x6" fir post instead.
Strong tie fasteners, hangers there are many ways to go about it. Do you have an engineer giving recommendations? City inspections?
Water weights about 8 pounds per gallon. That's a lot of weight.
I'd get the worked looked at by the city before going to deep and check to see if that wall on the right is a bearing wall.
Looks like it could be a "Do Over" or some more work done to beef things up proper.
JW
No, I don't believe the wall on the right is load-bearing.
Sorry that you don't want to do any more work (I know you already did some work on the joists).
Is that seriously a splice on the right hand joist about 4' from the foundation wall?
Your best bet is a doubled up 2x(8,10,12) whatever you have there, and some joist hangers.
You use joist hangers to support the header and you sister the joists that the header attaches to.
Joist splice: A previous owner tried to repair the floor joist after a leak rotted part of the floor, and he did a terrible job. So, I had to cut out a section of the joist, attach a full-length sister, splice the joist, then sandwich the joist on the opposite side with a second sister.
If I'm following what you're saying, it seems like you're advocating heading off the joist and boxing the tub drain.
Closeup of the drain next to the joist:
Here's a drawing I saw online for heading off joists. It sounds like I'd have to sister the joist under the wall also if I decide to go this route. I have a couple questions:
- Is there a such thing as a triple joist hanger, or is there another option? Edit: I saw an LUS26-3 hanger at the hardware store.
- What is the best way to cut the "triple" joist? Edit: I'm going to see if I can fit a circular saw, attaching a straightedge to the joist as a guide on either side of it.
