Replacement Lake Water Intake pipe

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LakeResident

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Our lake water intake is over 35 years old. We have a pumphouse with shallow well pump that draws water through a 1 1/4" suction pipe. This has worked well. but the pipe has been displaced by ice near the shore (We are on Lake Ontario). The pipe runs through a larger PE sleeve through bottom of pumphouse and on the outside it was further covered with an aluminum sleeve. In winter, it runs over rocky lake bottom which is exposed for about 20ft when lake levels are low. The pipe has a 160ft long 220V Pyrotenax internal heating cable. This still works despite the pipe now taking about 45deg sharp angle where ice displaced it. Pipe is a bit longer and has a tripod type intake to keep it off bottom.

I am hoping to get a contractor to completely replace the pipe. And even although it still works, likely also the 35+ year old Pyrotenax heating cable . I may prefer to stay with 220V so as to not add more load to the 30A feed that supplied this cable, 3/4HP pump, automatic sand filter, UV light and pumphouse heating. It is hard to find contractors who can handle this type of work!

My dilemma is about how to best protect the intake pipe once it is exposed outside the pumphouse and prevent ice from displacing pipe.

The pipe in the pictures is submerged in summer, but water levels are now low.
 

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LakeResident

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Another question, is how do others add weights to keep the pipe in place once in deeper water? We did something, but that was a long time ago and I have forgotten how.

Looking at Raychem and Heatline for the heating cable. Any experience or other suggestions? We are in Canada. Our existing 160ft 550wat Pyrotenax is still working after 35+ years, but is a bit of a relic!
 

Chucky_ott

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Can't answer your questions but have you considered driving a sandpoint close to the lake? I had an intake pipe in our small lake and got tired of removing it in the fall. Not to mention potential for e-coli from the geese that swam nearby.

Our soil is sandy so driving the sandpoint was easy. It's only 8ft deep but it's always underwater. Not sure how you'd run your heating cable at the sandpoint though.
 

LakeResident

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We have to go out about 80ft to get to the 6.5ft depth line on chart (at low water which we have in winter). Pipe will have to have an external sleeve for about 30 - 40ft.. That would get us below any potential ice. Heating cable would have to go at least 80ft. For clean water, we would want to go further out, beyond the 16.5ft chart line. That would be 164ft. So, to install this we would have to do it from a boat. I have contacted a dock builder who is used to operating in winter. It was -4C here this morning!

I am trying to recall how I made the intake at outer end. It was a sort of tripod with three inlets facing upwards and the pipe connecting facing downwards in the middle. Just pipe fittings, but I am trying to remember how! We could re-use existing, but I want to leave existing system in place until we get a new line installed with inner end close to pumphouse for subsequent hook up. We can't go without water for long. Nor have unheated line where it runs on shore above water level.

That trailer would no doubt work in some situations, but our bottom is covered with rocks and boulders and we need to go a long way out.
 

LakeResident

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Can't answer your questions but have you considered driving a sandpoint close to the lake? I had an intake pipe in our small lake and got tired of removing it in the fall. Not to mention potential for e-coli from the geese that swam nearby.

Our soil is sandy so driving the sandpoint was easy. It's only 8ft deep but it's always underwater. Not sure how you'd run your heating cable at the sandpoint though.
Thanks for replying. Before we moved in here about 45 years ago, there was apparently a shore well approximately where our pumphouse now is. It had been abandoned because of contamination. Our neighbour had a conventional well and had same issue. Cause was likely a nearby farm that raised cattle and sheep. Not really familiar with a sandpoint well, but it sounds a lot like what we call a shore well. A shallow well near shoreline that water permeates into from surroundings. Our area is very rocky, so there would be no chance of driving in a sandpoint. A conventional well has the chance of being contaminated. We have a huge fresh water source (Lake Ontario!). After filtration and UV treatments, the water passes local drinking water standards.
 

Valveman

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You could also make a little train track out of 2" steel pipe. Cut a short piece of 3" steel pipe in half to use as skids on top of the 2" rails. Build a platform on the skids and use a rope or cable system to pully the intake out to the end of the tracks and back when needed. Wish I had started taking system pictures sooner in life.
 

LakeResident

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You could also make a little train track out of 2" steel pipe. Cut a short piece of 3" steel pipe in half to use as skids on top of the 2" rails. Build a platform on the skids and use a rope or cable system to pully the intake out to the end of the tracks and back when needed. Wish I had started taking system pictures sooner in life.
Our intake will be about 200ft from the pumphouse! That would be quite the track. As mentioned above, installation will be from a boat or more likely the dock builders large barge. Getting intake out there is not an issue. We installed existing one ourselves from a small boat, but too old for that now. Anyway, I am sure we can sort it all out.
 

Valveman

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I have also dropped an anchor with pully attached from a boat. With a SS cable through the pulley I could pull the intake out to the anchor and tie it off.
 
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