Recirculator pump question

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Unmesh

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FWIW, in the city where I live, to pass any plumbing inspection with a WH, an expansion tank is required. Check your local codes. They also require a tempering valve to be installed. Depending on where the tank is, a vacuum relief valve might also be required.

So, if I follow your description, the return line comes out of the wall, goes to the pump, then is T'ed into the hot supply? Maybe I'm missing something, but wouldn't that just be pushing the cooler return water into the hot outlet? How would that line get warm? Without a check valve (might be one in the pump), when you open a hot valve somewhere, you'd be pulling water from both the hot line and the cool return line.

You want to be pushing, or pulling the hot through the hot line, then returning it to the cold side, often the lower drain line of the WH is used for that, but it always requires a check valve to prevent pulling water from the return and hot line at the same time.
It is T'ed into the cold supply.

We do get hot water everywhere we should; it just takes a while if hot water hasn't been run for a while. My current thinking is to have the plumber drive it into the drain line which is what he said he's done for all his WH installations.
 

Jeff H Young

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There you go decision made . might try checking that gate valve see if its open the one in picture post number 5 missing handle wouldnt be suprised if its closed
 

John Gayewski

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There you go decision made . might try checking that gate valve see if its open the one in picture post number 5 missing handle wouldnt be suprised if its closed
Usually the trick of taking the handle off is for a service valve that is to remain open. That way no one closes it and ruins the pump.
 

Master Plumber Mark

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The water heater looks old as hell and the unions on top of the heater look like they are about to rust out at any time....

I suggest you dont throw any money or effort into trying to make this thing work correctly because its just gonna break your heart so I would just wait until the heater finally goes terminal on you and just replace the whole mess and worry about the pump at that time
 

Unmesh

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The water heater looks old as hell and the unions on top of the heater look like they are about to rust out at any time....

I suggest you dont throw any money or effort into trying to make this thing work correctly because its just gonna break your heart so I would just wait until the heater finally goes terminal on you and just replace the whole mess and worry about the pump at that time
Good point about the unions but the heater is only about 5 years old. I would have waited but thought I would make the family happy by having hot water on demand, so to speak, and to save water since California is having a drought. I hope I don't regret the impulse, at least not too much.

From the comments here, it's beginning to look like the plumber who replaced the WH and pump wasn't very good.
 

Unmesh

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FWIW, in the city where I live, to pass any plumbing inspection with a WH, an expansion tank is required.
I forgot to reply to this but we bought the house new from the builder and none of the houses had an expansion tank at the water heater.
 

Jeff H Young

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I forgot to reply to this but we bought the house new from the builder and none of the houses had an expansion tank at the water heater.
Its very possible you dont need a x tank , its also very common that houses should have one that dont . I wouldnt assume either. If your home has a closed system it should have a X tank
 

Unmesh

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New (and hopefully improved) setup with pump driving into WH drain! There is a barely visible valve where the return is emerging from the wall.

HWR6.jpg


HWR5.jpg


Should I put a block of wood under the pump to support it?
 
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