Portable Generator L14-30 Hookup

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LLigetfa

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I am looking to connect a 5000W portable generator through the exterior wall. The generator has an L14-30 240V outlet so I need a cord to go from it to a wall penetration box as well as the wallbox. I found the following but am open to suggestions.

Inside the house, I want to break out the 15A, 240V well pump circuit to a split duplex NEMA 6-15R where one side connects to the utility and the other side to the generator. I will need a 6-15P right-angle BX cord end plug that I can move between the two outlets.

If code does not allow a single duplex outlet to be split, with mains and generator to be in the same box, I will use two boxes.

All this assumes the generator can power my Grundfos 10S05-9 (1/2 HP) pump. This 5000W continuous duty generator is max rated at 6250W. The pump starts against a micronizer that limits the GPM considerably. Grunfos pumps use less amps at lower GPM so I am hopeful this will work.

Pump Electrical data:
Motor type: MS402
Type of motor: CSIR
Applic. motor: GRUNDFOS
Rated power - P2: 0.5 HP
Power (P2) required by pump: 0.5 HP
KVA code: L
Main frequency: 60 Hz
Rated voltage: 1 x 230 V
Service factor: 1.60
Rated current: 6 A
Starting current: 410 %
Cos phi - power factor: 0.76

I will rely on the generator's breaker for over-current protection.
 

wwhitney

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For hooking up a portable generator, you definitely want an inlet like the PB30 you linked to. Then you can use a standard L14-30 extension cord to connect the portable generator to the house wiring.

The house wiring from the inlet is going to be completely separate from the utility supplied wiring (other than the EGC)? I.e. the only way to power something from the generator will be to unplug it from a utility supplied receptacle and plug it into a generator inlet supplied receptacle? Then you will want the generator to have a N-G bond, and you will need to ensure the generator neutral and utility neutral are never connected to each other.

A NEMA 6-15 receptacle needs to be protected at 20A or less. Plus if the CEC motor rules are similar to the NEC motor rules, your 0.5 HP 240V pump motor needs to be protected at 15A. [Unless it has a higher MOCP printed on the nameplate?] So unless your generator OCPD is 15A, you'll need to add OCPD for your generator-supplied 6-15 receptacle.

Cheers, Wayne
 

LLigetfa

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The only intentional bond between utility and generator will be the EGC. By the nature of a N-G bond on the mains panel and a N-G bond on the generator, there would be an indirect connection of mains neutral and generator neutral.

I don't know what the motor nameplate says for OCP and I am not sure but the Franklin pump control box might have OCP. The L14-30 outlet will not limit current to 15A. Since the pump start will most likely consume all available power, it will only be plugged in and monitored when the storage tanks need to be refilled.
 

wwhitney

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The only intentional bond between utility and generator will be the EGC. By the nature of a N-G bond on the mains panel and a N-G bond on the generator, there would be an indirect connection of mains neutral and generator neutral.
Right, that's fine. But given that connectivity, if you have any direct connection of utility neutral to generator neutral, then you will have utility neutral current on the EGC system, at least when the generator is plugged into the inlet so that its N-G bond is present. Just something to be aware of, since you obviously don't want neutral current on the EGC system.

My point about the 6-15 receptacle is that it has a 20A rating, and so under all operating conditions it needs to be protected by OCPD that is 20A or less.

Cheers, Wayne
 

LLigetfa

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Inside the house, I want to break out the 15A, 240V well pump circuit to a split duplex NEMA 6-15R where one side connects to the utility and the other side to the generator. I will need a 6-15P right-angle BX cord end plug that I can move between the two outlets.
No luck finding anything 6-15 locally so opted to use two separate 6-30R outlets and a 6-30P plug, all of which is in stock locally. One bonus is that I have an electric construction heater that has a 6-30 plug on it so I can use the heater with the generator.

Ordered the WKPBN30 and an L14-30 power cord.
 

WorthFlorida

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What brand of generator? Many are terrible on voltage regulation. Motors can take 3 times the start up current from the nameplate current ratings and some motors do not like non regulated generators. I would temperately connect the pump motor to the generator and give it a try. Then add additional load to the generator that it can handle all loads you expect to run.
 

LLigetfa

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What brand of generator?
Sorry I missed your question. It is a Benchmark Model BG6250E which is a Home Hardware exclusive. It is distributed and serviced by Midland Power and manufactured in China by Chongqing Dajiang Power Equipment Co., Ltd.

Anyway, I went with the Reliance WKPBN30 through-the-wall kit that I connected with 10/3 armored cable through metal boxes at the junctions. The main breaker on the generator is purported to be 20.8 amps.

I finished up all the wiring today and tested it out. I also wired in a lightbulb in the crawlspace where the pump wiring is in and when the pump started, the incandescent bulb did not dim or blink. There were no other loads at the time. I will test it later with additional loads.

I would have preferred to use the 6-15 on the pump rather than the 6-30 as the wife has a very hard time unplugging it to transfer from mains to generator. I am hoping the 6-30 loosens up a bit with use.
 

Fitter30

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This is my setup very rural have a well pump. Everything important is on the subpanel. Can have hot water, fridge, lights and pump. Not all at the same time but don't have to fool with extension cords. Since my garage Has its own panel switch a light on in the window to tell me when power comes back on.
IMG_20220902_191934.jpg
 

LLigetfa

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This is my setup very rural have a well pump. Everything important is on the subpanel.
If my generator was bigger I would have to consider a sub-panel. It is hard to justify a bigger generator since in the 25 years I lived here, I've never had a long enough outage to require a generator. I've only once (at the wife's insistence) dragged out the generator and extension cord to to power my sump pump and the power came back on just as I was about to plug the pump into the generator.

My sump pit has a high-water alarm and during a rainstorm I have around 4 hours from when the alarm goes off to when the water breaches the rim. The alarm has only gone off when testing and timing it.

Today I purchased three 14 AWG extension cords to have on hand. I have several extension cords already but don't recall what AWG they are.
 

LLigetfa

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To save having to drag the generator 100+ feet through snow to the house, I built a small (3' x 3' x 3') fabric shelter to house the generator. It has a zippered front door with weighted base so I can pull the generator forward and have the door still provide cover from inclement weather. The shelter is portable so I can relocate it if need be. I have a Battery Tender Junior keeping the battery fresh so I won't have to pull it out and run it every month to recharge the battery.

19-19-45-24.png
 

sajesak

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For hooking up a portable generator, you definitely want an inlet like the PB30 you linked to. Then you can use a standard L14-30 extension cord to connect the portable generator to the house wiring.

The house wiring from the inlet is going to be completely separate from the utility supplied wiring (other than the EGC)? I.e. the only way to power something from the generator will be to unplug it from a utility supplied receptacle and plug it into a generator inlet supplied receptacle? Then you will want the generator to have a N-G bond, and you will need to ensure the generator neutral and utility neutral are never connected to each other.

A NEMA 6-15 receptacle needs to be protected at 20A or less. Plus if the CEC motor rules are similar to the NEC motor rules, your 0.5 HP 240V pump motor needs to be protected at 15A. for more visit us Safepowering [Unless it has a higher MOCP printed on the nameplate?] So unless your generator OCPD is 15A, you'll need to add OCPD for your generator-supplied 6-15 receptacle.

Cheers, Wayne
my portable generator is neutraly bonded to the frame I ran the 4 prong twistlock nema #L14-30 to out side plugin then ran 4 seperate 10 ga wires two hots to 30 amp double breaker, white to left bar and green to right bar at 220 amp fuse panel. Neutral and ground bars are bonded. Is this ok or do I need to remove neutral to ground connector on the generator receptacle? Any input would be appreciated. Thanks
 

wwhitney

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my portable generator is neutraly bonded to the frame I ran the 4 prong twistlock nema #L14-30 to out side plugin then ran 4 seperate 10 ga wires two hots to 30 amp double breaker, white to left bar and green to right bar at 220 amp fuse panel. Neutral and ground bars are bonded. Is this ok or do I need to remove neutral to ground connector on the generator receptacle? Any input would be appreciated. Thanks
Is this "220 amp fuse panel" dedicated to the generator and has no other source of power? If so, then you want either a neutral-ground bond at the generator, or a neutral-ground bond at the panel, but not both.

Or does the panel also have utility power, with the double pole 30A breaker mechanically interlocked with the main breaker, so that the panel can only have one source of power at a time? In this case you only want the neutral-ground bond at the panel, and you must remove the neutral-ground bond at the generator.

If the panel can have both utility power and generator power, and they are not mechanically interlocked, that is unsafe and your system needs to be reconfigured.

Cheers, Wayne
 

LLigetfa

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This is my setup very rural have a well pump. Everything important is on the subpanel.
I am in the process of renovating and closing in an old woodshed and now have to give thought to providing power to it. I won't have time to dig a 3 foot deep trench for permanent power so am thinking of using another Reliance Controls WKPBN30 through-the-wall kit rather than run extension cords through an open door. I could wire an L14-30 outlet on the outside of the house and make up an extension cord from the wire I intend to direct bury next year for the time being. I'm contemplating setting up the sub-panel with a transfer switch to be able to use the generator after the permanent power feed is buried.
 

wwhitney

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I won't have time to dig a 3 foot deep trench for permanent power
You might have your own reasons for going 36" deep, but the NEC would only require 24" cover at most (so maybe 27" deep). PVC conduit would generally only require 18" of cover, and rigid metal conduit often only requires 6" of cover. See Table 300.5 of the NEC.

Cheers, Wayne
 

LLigetfa

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You might have your own reasons for going 36" deep, but the NEC would only require 24" cover at most (so maybe 27" deep). PVC conduit would generally only require 18" of cover, and rigid metal conduit often only requires 6" of cover. See Table 300.5 of the NEC.

Cheers, Wayne
Thanks for questioning it. I was quoting vehicular areas. As for 6" of cover over RMC, that does not apply in my area. There is an option to use 4" of concrete cover in cases it cannot be buried deeper due to bedrock.
17-19-52-25.png
 
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