270win
New Member
Hello Everyone,
I'm looking for some help with my PH Neutralizer which has been in operation for quite some time and does a moderate job at raising PH, but I never really liked the way it operates. It is a 10 x 54 tank and has a Fleck valve on top.
In the past I underestimated the value of raising the PH, but a while ago I finally started to experiment with different media mixtures. Once I had the PH near 7.0, my water was extremely soft and left little residue behind. So, for all those ‘told you so’s’ out there, the answer is yes, a neutral PH makes a world of difference with the water chemistry that follows!!
Our water is rusty, hard and has some radon. Really disgusting stuff. Leave the raw water in a glass for 20 minutes and it looks like tea once the iron shows itself.
My water/filter system consists of the following in this order:
1.) 480’ well with submersible pump, 6 gpm recovery. Static level around 25’ from the surface.
2.) Medium size pressure tank in the basement
3.) Pressure switch adjusted for 40-60 PSI
4.) Filter 1 is the PH Neutralizer. Calcite/Corosex mix with side fill port. (Fleck 2510 valve)
5.) Filter 2 is a Greensand filter with Potassium permanganate (Fleck 2510 valve)
6.) Filter 3 is a Water Softener (Fleck 2510 valve)
7.) Filter 4 is an upflow carbon filter that does a great job removing my small amount of radon
8.) Big blue sediment filter
9.) Onward to the distribution manifolds.
I find the maintenance a bit of a pain, both with trying to find the correct ratio of Calcite/Corosex and keeping a constant PH. The current ratio of Calcite/Corosex is 2:1 which pulls my PH up from around 5.6 to 6.7. However, over time, this drops as the media is sacrificed.
Also, I’m betting that the much softer Corosex dissolves at a faster rate. Therefore even if I were to replenish the media through the side port….I’d probably need to use a “richer” mix with more Corosex. (Another life lesson was when I put too much Corosex in and it turned to concrete)
So, my questions are:
1.) If add more media through the side port which is Corosex “rich”, will the Corosex then get mixed evenly throughout the tank after a few rinses? I suppose this will depend on my flow during the rinse?
2.) What is the heaviest ratio of Calcite/Corosex that can be used before it concretes. I need more than 2:1 if I'm to get to the 7.0 level for any amount of time.
3.) Would an injection system with Soda Ash be easier to regulate?
Another observation is that I think the PH levels with this system if plotted on a graph would give me a sawtooth waveform. Up after a media fill, then slowly back down, then back up. I would prefer flat.....
Yes, I know that an injection system can also be messy, but I also have a pressure drop issue which will be the subject of an additional thread
Thanks to everyone in advance,
Brad
I'm looking for some help with my PH Neutralizer which has been in operation for quite some time and does a moderate job at raising PH, but I never really liked the way it operates. It is a 10 x 54 tank and has a Fleck valve on top.
In the past I underestimated the value of raising the PH, but a while ago I finally started to experiment with different media mixtures. Once I had the PH near 7.0, my water was extremely soft and left little residue behind. So, for all those ‘told you so’s’ out there, the answer is yes, a neutral PH makes a world of difference with the water chemistry that follows!!
Our water is rusty, hard and has some radon. Really disgusting stuff. Leave the raw water in a glass for 20 minutes and it looks like tea once the iron shows itself.
My water/filter system consists of the following in this order:
1.) 480’ well with submersible pump, 6 gpm recovery. Static level around 25’ from the surface.
2.) Medium size pressure tank in the basement
3.) Pressure switch adjusted for 40-60 PSI
4.) Filter 1 is the PH Neutralizer. Calcite/Corosex mix with side fill port. (Fleck 2510 valve)
5.) Filter 2 is a Greensand filter with Potassium permanganate (Fleck 2510 valve)
6.) Filter 3 is a Water Softener (Fleck 2510 valve)
7.) Filter 4 is an upflow carbon filter that does a great job removing my small amount of radon
8.) Big blue sediment filter
9.) Onward to the distribution manifolds.
I find the maintenance a bit of a pain, both with trying to find the correct ratio of Calcite/Corosex and keeping a constant PH. The current ratio of Calcite/Corosex is 2:1 which pulls my PH up from around 5.6 to 6.7. However, over time, this drops as the media is sacrificed.
Also, I’m betting that the much softer Corosex dissolves at a faster rate. Therefore even if I were to replenish the media through the side port….I’d probably need to use a “richer” mix with more Corosex. (Another life lesson was when I put too much Corosex in and it turned to concrete)
So, my questions are:
1.) If add more media through the side port which is Corosex “rich”, will the Corosex then get mixed evenly throughout the tank after a few rinses? I suppose this will depend on my flow during the rinse?
2.) What is the heaviest ratio of Calcite/Corosex that can be used before it concretes. I need more than 2:1 if I'm to get to the 7.0 level for any amount of time.
3.) Would an injection system with Soda Ash be easier to regulate?
Another observation is that I think the PH levels with this system if plotted on a graph would give me a sawtooth waveform. Up after a media fill, then slowly back down, then back up. I would prefer flat.....
Yes, I know that an injection system can also be messy, but I also have a pressure drop issue which will be the subject of an additional thread
Thanks to everyone in advance,
Brad