Is Galv Steel measured by the OD?

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Have a slow bathroom drain that has inspired me to remove the used P-trap, snake the drain line, than re install a new P-Trap.
As a DIYer, I get myself into unexpected situations that can sometimes cause delay.

1) I want to make sure I buy the right parts.
2) The 2" galvanized steel pipe steps down to a 1 1/4" Ptrap. Pretty sure, does that look right.
I want to replace this coupling step adaptor, but want to confirm, is this really a 2" to 1 1/4" adaptor, as those are a bit tricky to find.
The OD of the galvanized drain line measured 2" on the calipers so seems like it, right?

I have hand snaked other galvanized lines, if I feel sticky Tees or elbows to get through I usually try not to push it too hard as I am concerned that 55 year old steel will break. I only use a cork screw head no cutters. My snake is 25'

The pTrap is not expensive to replace, the adaptor is not expensive, I don't want to put the old ones back on, would rather put $15-20 into new PTrap and adaptor. I just never have dealt with combining steel to PVC but an adaptor I guess should do the trick, unless you have any thoughts to add?

Looking over this configuration, I just wanted to make sure this adaptor is 2" - 1 1/4" as that is not a stock adaptor at the big box stores.
Also, any advice or tips is helpful before I pump myself up to either created a 2 day project my wife shuns me over, or a 30 mins slam dunk.
 

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Jeff H Young

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OD can be measured to determine pipe size . 1 1/2 pipe is 1 7/8 OD 2 inch 2 3/8 OD
looks like 1 1/2" pipe and 1 1/2 OD tubular trap not guaranteed but about a 90 percent chance that's what it is
 
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OD can be measured to determine pipe size . 1 1/2 pipe is 1 7/8 OD 2 inch 2 3/8 OD
looks like 1 1/2" pipe and 1 1/2 OD tubular trap not guaranteed but about a 90 percent chance that's what it is
Hey Jeff, So I have a photo of calipers mearing the OD at approx 2" of the Steel pipe.
Reach sent a chart that I think...indicates if I have 1.90" OD then the pipe is 1 1/2"
I was only wondering about this info as I am not sure what size coupling to buy.
I assume that bathroom sinks have ptraps that are traditionally 1 1/4"?
But your guesstimation of 1 1/2" steel to 1 1/2" PVC could be something I try too?
I just figured that if I had these caliber measurements of the OD that would tell us what it is without guessing.
I did not measure the OD of the PVC as I just assumed it was 1 1/4" but maybe it is a kitchen sink Ptrap and is 1 1/2"?
I will measure that one also later.
Thanks!
 

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Is the galvanized pipe, that is sticking out of the wall, threaded?
If so, you can probably thread on something like this: https://www.homedepot.com/p/OATEY-1...th-Rubber-Reducing-Washers-HDC2698C/316622089
There are metal and other plastic versions.

That one comes with two washers -- one for 1-1/2 slip joint trap, and a reducing washer for 1-1/4 slip joint trap arms.

You also have the option of using a 1-1/2 slip joint with a reducing washer on its input.

Given what appears to be the dimensions in the photo, you might need to make the trap arm longer, and have the J-piece rotated farther from the wall. In other words, the exiting waste would move farther from the wall before turning back toward the wall.

The tailpiece from a lavatory is normally 1-1/4.

I like to order the batteries for digital calipers via ebay, and get 5 or more of a brand name #357 such as Energizer. You can get them at a store, but they will cost more each. https://www.homedepot.com/s/357+battery?NCNI-5 the silver oxide ones last longer. LR-44 is another designation for that size battery in alkaline, and SR-44 is the silver oxide version.
 
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1 1/2 CI PL or st to 1 1/2 TUBULAR shielded coupling
Jeff, is this coupling a good candidate for this DIY job here. Also I will go back and measure the Ptrap OD as I never was able to figure out if it was 1 1/4 or 1 1/2" just by looking at it. I will confirm that tonight. Here is a link I found to a coupling.
 

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looks perfect to me! not 100 percent sure of your pipe sizes but almost all homes are those sizes and your purchasing a new p traP dont buy 1 1/4 buy 1 1/2 tubular trap
 
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Long update here:
I removed the old P-trap, The old PVC extension going into the steel, this felt cemented in there so I was a bit worried. With some back and forth it came out. I wear a respirator, and it is rare I can smell anything through it, well it stunk so bad I could faintly smell the hell coming out of that sewer line through my respirator. So nasty. The galvanized steel was plugged pretty bad, looked like a solid plug that you would need a spatula to clean with. I clean most of it out, then snaked it, then re-installed a new Oatey PVC p-trap. Thanks for your help Jeff with Eye Balling the size. It was indeed 1 1/2' steel to 1 1/2 PVC. The no-hub fit.

I may have overtightened one of the hex nuts as I felt it pop back when it got too tight. So I can tighten it, but too much torque and it pops loose. I don't own a torque wrench. I think it is fine? Nothing is leaking from it.

The bad news is the brand-new PVC p trap leaks at the one joint that is concave and does not have a washer. The extension tube that goes down into the J bend, this has that concave lip and there is no washer for this one joint.
It looks and feels totally aligned, I tighten that one first, then the other two. I tried 4 times to keep loosening it up, aligning it flush then tightening it and waiting to inspect for leaks. The leak is super small, with a drip every 60 seconds. Enought to drive me nuts.
I tried so many times that I started to think that the threading was crushed or the concave lip was faulty? So I bought another P trap, this time an ABS P Trap for 5$ and I am going to try this again with another unit, maybe it was a faulty lip? It was probably me but The threads, the alignment, everything was so right on the dot.
I aligned this problematic joint first, so it is rock solid, with everything else loose, thank tighten everything else, still drips.

So going to swap it out and the hope is the next one works fine and it was just something wrong with that one?
 

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Reach4

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Given what appears to be the dimensions in the photo, you might need to make the trap arm longer, and have the J-piece rotated farther from the wall. In other words, the exiting waste would move farther from the wall before turning back toward the wall.
 
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Given what appears to be the dimensions in the photo, you might need to make the trap arm longer, and have the J-piece rotated farther from the wall. In other words, the exiting waste would move farther from the wall before turning back toward the wall.
Ok good to know, can you explain why a longer extension tube would be required to help solve this leak? Or was that unrelated? Your thoughts behind this suggestion would be insightful for me.
From what I recall, the trap is 1.5" PVC, the trap arm is over 3" as it protrudes through the no hub a fem more inches down the steel pipe in the back. The trap arm is aprox 7" in this configuration.
but I am curious if your suggestion has more to do with the leak and alignment help or was more a general note?
 
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Reach4

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Your trap looks stressed to me, because I am suspecting that your trap is being grabbed in a curved area. Your leak at the green arrow could be the result of stress.

In # 5, I suggested that you might not need the coupling, but rather might be able to use a slip joint nut with washer. That would depend on the existing threading that is hidden by your coupling. But with your coupling, I think you can be grabbing a straight piece of the trap output, and avoid stress.
 

Jeff H Young

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picture in post 10 hard to describe but you can see its slightly crooked the trap and tail piece connections loosten up adjust correctly try that or just take it all apart and start over clean off any gunk or whatever put it together correctly not crooked
 
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After starting from scratch and reinstalling the first replacement trap over and over.
I just went and bought a second replacement trap.
I used every inch of the extension piece with about 1 1/2" going into the coupling. Rather than 4" into the coupling.
After installation, it did not leak on the first try.
So we are all good, it was a lot of work for me trying to get that initial trap installed, over and over and over no giving up.
Buying a second one and kicking the J bend away from the wall may have been the ticket. Either way, we are up and running.
I am not sure I could manage to do this day to day, I will stick with my day job. these projects seem to take me 20 mins or 2 days, I hate not knowing which.
Thanks again for the help on this.
Bob from accounting
 

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Jeff H Young

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Great Bob, frustrating but worthwhile I hope you can do this , ha ha ! a little spackle on those holes in wall, and You might have a better working pop up if you slide the clip back toward the wall the rod should connect a little farther away from tail piece if it works good forget my comment
 
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Ah man, you're right, I should have spackled those original inlet holes before I painted. I will see if that rod for the pop-up hits the wall, it seems to work well, but we rarely use it.
I want to tear this vanity out anyway, I hate this bathroom. Remodel this room one of these days.
 

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I wasn't talking about it hitting the wall the rod coming down is so close to the pop up assembly it tends to make the rod difficult to move up and down not enough leverage minor adjustment no big deal on that or the holes just a minor detail you did good
 
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